Expeditions from 2022 to 2023

After countless mountain tours, expeditions, and summit attempts, we’re finally taking the time to reflect and revive our blog. We begin with a look back at the highlights from 2022 into 2023:

• Karakoram Expeditions

• Ama Dablam: Tragedy and Triumph

• South America Tours & Aconcagua

• Antarctica: New Year 2023

These are some of the most meaningful mountain experiences for us during this time. In the past, we posted here regularly, but with the rise of social media and ever-improving connectivity, it has become easier for us to share quick updates and photos (via Instagram, Facebook) and for participants to communicate directly with friends and family at home.

1. Karakoram Expeditions

We combined several smaller trips—Baltoro trekking and expeditions to Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I & II into one cohesive team to support each other and acclimatize more effectively. However, the 2022 Karakoram season began with challenges, particularly in obtaining visas. Pakistan had digitized its process due to the pandemic, and with reopened borders and a refugee influx from Afghanistan, the system became overwhelmed.To gain altitude while waiting for the last team members to arrive, we explored the Deosai Plateau at around 4,000 m. From there, we trekked swiftly into the Baltoro region. A group of 8000-meter aspirants, led by expedition leader Felix Berg, climbed Pastore Peak—a 6,000er with spectacular views of the Karakoram giants, directly facing Broad Peak and K2. Once a more frequently climbed peak, Pastore is no simple “trekking mountain,” despite being labeled as such, and a classic ascent requires solid alpine climbing skills.

After further acclimatization, summit attempts began. Unfortunately, cold symptoms began circulating in base camp just before these crucial pushes. While some expeditions dismissed it as “normal” for altitude, our expedition doctor Tom conducted tests and identified positive COVID-19 cases—including himself and another climber later in Skardu. The pandemic wasn’t quite over, and respiratory illness at high altitude is serious. After recovering from a negative-tested cough, Felix helped open the route and summited Gasherbrum II on July 21, 2022, without supplemental oxygen.

Meanwhile on Broad Peak, a promising summit bid by team member Andy turned into a rescue effort at the col, where he assisted another climber in distress. Already exhausted, we faced further challenges on the descent: heavy rain, washed-out bridges and trails, and rough terrain made our return to Skardu difficult—though we thankfully caught the flight to Islamabad and finally earned some well-deserved rest.

2. Ama Dablam: Tragedy and Triumph

In 2022, we organized our Ama Dablam expeditions in partnership with a strong Sherpa team from Nepal. The route was fixed toward the summit in mid-October when tragic news reached us: Mingma, one of our personal Sherpa guides, had died suddenly of heart failure at Camp 3 (6,000 m) after a demanding day. His body was recovered by helicopter, and an undiagnosed heart condition was later suspected in Kathmandu.

Sadly, such incidents are not uncommon and often go unmentioned—especially when it comes to Sherpas. Mourning gave way to climbing once more. In November, members of our second small expedition, led by Pasang Rinzee Sherpa (IFMGA candidate and SummitClimb guide), successfully climbed Island Peak and later Ama Dablam. Despite the ever-present risks, mountaineering remains a deeply meaningful pursuit for many of us—and for the Sherpa community, it continues to be a vital livelihood. Upcoming expeditions to Baruntse, Island Peak, and again Ama Dablam are already planned.

3. South America Tours & Aconcagua

The Andes continue to draw summit-seekers, especially to Aconcagua, either as part of the Seven Summits challenge or simply to experience nearly 7,000-meter altitude on a relatively non-technical route. But the Andes offer far more: an array of 5,000- and 6,000-meter peaks, from easy to demanding.

In 2022, SummitClimb teams finally returned to Peru, where we successfully climbed the iconic Alpamayo. The 2023 season also started strong. The Peruvian Andes are among the most impacted by climate change: beyond the steep, technical routes of the Cordillera Blanca, climbers now face challenges like soft snow, collapsing seracs, and unstable cornices.

In Ecuador, things are milder. We traveled again along the “Avenue of the Volcanoes” in 2022. One of our groups reached Cotopaxi (currently closed due to volcanic activity), while on Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest mountain, we had to retreat due to high avalanche risk.

Farther south, the Aconcagua season begins at year’s end. The close of 2022 brought unusually heavy snowfall to this typically dry mountain, affecting our first of three groups. Despite a season marred by many accidents, we achieved our most important goal: bringing everyone home safely. Aconcagua, at nearly 7,000 meters, should not be underestimated. While its normal route resembles a moderate hiking trail in dry conditions, icy slopes and high winds can quickly make it serious. A climb of Aconcagua sits right at the threshold between a classic trekking trip and a full-blown high-altitude expedition.

4. Antarctica: New Year 2023

Mount Vinson: After a pandemic-induced pause in 2020/21 and ongoing travel restrictions in 2021/22 due to Chilean policies for European visitors, it finally happened: a long-awaited return to Antarctica. Over Christmas, we began our journey—first to South America via Santiago de Chile, then to Punta Arenas. After several days of quarantine and preparation, we flew aboard a 757 operated by ALE/Island Air to Union Glacier, the hub for West Antarctic expeditions.

From there, a one-hour flight took us to the base camp of Mount Vinson, the highest peak on the continent and one of the Seven Summits. The route, with flagged paths, fixed lines on steeper sections, and even designated urination points (to minimize environmental impact), was in excellent condition. We were lucky with the weather: mild for Antarctica, with temperatures between -15°C and -30°C, little wind, and plenty of sunshine.

We celebrated New Year 2023 in Low Camp, and on January 3rd, the entire SummitClimb team reached the summit. The next day, Felix Berg and Magdalena Wilczek climbed Mount Shinn, the third-highest peak in Antarctica. Fog rolled in afterward, canceling further climbs in the Sentinel Range, but we made the most of our extended stay at Union Glacier—originally reserved for weather delays in Patagonia. We filled the days with cross-country skiing, fat biking, rock and ice dune exploration, and a traverse of Mount Rossmann.

Just in time, our return flight made it back to Punta Arenas, allowing us to catch our connecting flights to Europe.

This Antarctica expedition was a fitting start to the 2023 expedition season. Since then, our spring expeditions to Nepal and summer trips to Peru have already come and gone. If we can carve out the time between all these climbs, we’ll soon be posting more stories here about our latest mountain adventures.