First Climb of AM Peak, 5700m - Shimshal 2020

Shimshal Explorer - Alpine Climbing

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+49 (0)30 774 9034
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expedition leader

Felix Berg Felix Berg CEO - Chief Expedition Officer

Full service:
6.150,00 €
Status:

Shimshal - Karakoram

Selected dates:
to

More dates

12. Apr - 04. May 2025
06. Sep - 28. Sep 2025

Alpinism & Exploration:
✪ New routes at moderate level
✪ Peaks around 6000 m / unto 20’000 ft
✪ Mountaineering background required
✪ SummitClimb & Felix Berg

Technik Klettern

Climbing

Technical scale in climbing (in rock, mostly alpine) in relation to our climbing trips and expeditions:
 
1 - easy / beginners
2 - little difficult
3 - medium difficulty
4 - difficult / advanced
5 - extreme
 

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

Categories

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Shimshal Explorer - Alpine Climbing

In northern Pakistan, where the Karakoram meets the Pamir mountains, the area of Shimshal has long been a blanc spot on many maps. The Shimshal valley stretches 75 km from the entry near Passu, Hunza area towards the east. In the south huge glaciers lead to a natural border with the Northern faces of mighty 7000m-peaks alike Trivor Sar (7577m), Distaghil Sar (7885m), Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Kanjut Sar (7.760m). The north-eastern area contains a vast number of 6000m-peaks, many of them unclimbed, some even unnamed. Used by Shimshali people since 400 years for traditional herding of goats, sheep, and yaks, much of these northern mountain ranges are accessible by adventurous paths. They allow us a relatively quick access to our unique base camp, each trip with focus on a different mountain range for explorational climbs: new routes, new peaks, first ascents.

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Shimshal Explorer - Alpine Climbing

Selected dates:
to

Full service:
6.150,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Stuttgart, München

More dates

12. Apr - 04. May 2025
06. Sep - 28. Sep 2025

Shimshal Expedition: We plan with different regions during each exlporation, hence the costs of the expeditions differ from date to date. Due to the nature of exploration, our experienced leader takes charge of the overall planing and leads the team but not guidance is provided on the mountain (unless requested, and arranged prior). We plan in all the costs of travel to Shimshal from/to Islamabad, trekking to base camp, comfortable setup, enough support for our climbing gear, some special lightweight high camp, and alpine climbing equipment.

Services of your expedition

Included:
  • Leadership and Organization (min. 4 max. 6 members per leader)
  • International flights to/from Islamabad (ISB):
    - Economy (non-flex), most European hubs
    - inclusive 30kg check-in-luggage, and 7kg carry-on
    - USA, Asia on request, personal flight arrangement
  • All group transfers by the program
  • 2x accommodation in Islamabad, full-board
  • 4x accommodation in Hunza, full-board
  • 2x accommodation in Shimshal village, full-board
  • trekking to base camp and back
  • carriage of personal gear to/from base camp: 25 kg / 20kg
  • basecamp setup:
    - group tent/dining tent
    - kitchen stand, full board
    - sleeping tent (shared)
  • High camp equipment:
    - Light-weight single wall tents
    - Stoves, Gas
  • Climbing gear:
    - Single / double ropes
    - Alpine rack per team of 3 members
    - pitons, slings, accessory
 
Not Included:
  • Insurances (we can book these if necessary)
  • Personal equipment
  • Costs of personal nature (drinks, etc.)
  • Tips for guides, porters, and staff

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Shimshal exploration: We will search for some unclimbed lines, possibly unclimbed mountains. And, with the unknown comes some uncertainty of the itinerary, which we will adjust depending on the area of our search and the focus of our team. Due to the terrain and accessibility. we have a good chance of learning something truly new, and that in just 3 weeks of a trip.

Itinerary - Shimhsal Explorer

Due to the character of the true exploration, we will describe the itinerary in three parts:

  1. Journey to Shimshal
  2. The Exploration
  3. Journey Home

1. Travel into the Shimshal Karakoram

  • Day 1: Travel to Pakistan
  • Day 2: Latest arrival in Islamabad, airport transfer to hotel, rock climbing in Margalla hills.
  • Day 3: Travel via Gilgit to Hunza, drive approx. 15h, or flight to Gilgit and 2h drive.
  • Day 4: Hunza - acclimatization trek to Horn pass, with beautiful views of the Karakoram, Rakaposhi, Daran Peak, Golden Peak (Spantik).
  • Day 5: Drive from Hunza zu Shimshal, approx. 5h.

2. The Exploration

We have 2 weeks that will consist of trekking to a remote base camp (3-4 days), climbing as many alpine routes and peaks as possible (8-10 days), and trekking back to Shimshal (2-3 days). With peaks around an altitude of 6000 meters, we do not need too much time for acclimatization and can start climbing as soon as we arrive at base camp (of course, weather and conditions permitting).

We will finalize the goals with the team depending on skills and abilities. We can still alternate the area while in Hunza/Shimshal depending on the information available then, as conditions and weather. Here are the planned objectives of our future explorations:

Shuijerab region - 2022 summer

Shuijerab Base Camp is a 4-day trek from Shimshal. Located at the start of two glaciers the base camp is surrounded by unnamed and unclimbed peaks of 6000m in height. Beyond that, explorations to Yak Sar (6152m), Umeed Sar (6134m), Guustan Peak (6224m) are possible.

Ganj-e-Dur region - 2023 spring

Base Camp is a 4-day trek from Shimshal. Yard Sar W (6090m) and M (6150m) were climbed in 2017, while Yard Sar E (6180m) remains unclimbed. Many unnamed peaks above 6000m unclimbed.

Koh-e-Dhaid region - 2023 summer

Base Camp is a 3-day trek from Shimshal. Koh-e-Dhaid (6105m) was first summited in 2020, Charskin I was summited and renamed Samina Peak, Charskin II remains unclimbed, with lots of potential for interesting new routes and other subsidiary peaks

How many climbs, how many peaks?

Many of the peaks in the region have no ascents and are unnamed, some have been climbed a few times but still have potential for new routes at moderate difficulty. We can climb to the summit in a 1-day push from base camp or with lightweight high camp equipment or bivouacs for several days. This is an exploration, hence we can not give you details on the number of peaks planned, and of course, any alpine climb is highly dependent on weather and route conditions as well as your level of climbing. In one day we might traverse 3 peaks of 6000m height, or in 3 days fail to climb one at all - no success is guaranteed but we aim at climbing as much as possible!

3. Journey Home

  • Day 20: Shimshal - Hunza, Karimabad
  • Day 21: Hunza area, reserve day
  • Day 22: Drive to Gilgit, Flight to Islamabad
  • Day 23: Islamabad departure, travel home

Safety

Categories

Join us in Shimshal: You need to bring adventure spirit, be a mountaineer, and ready for real exploration. Additionally, trekkers can join us to base camp for some small explorations and side peaks with local guides.

Requirements - Explorer Expedition

The level of alpine tours (summer) or ski tours (spring) and mountain ascents possible for you will be determined by your abilities. Ideally, you will join together as a rope team or we plan to hire a local or international guide for you.

The routes (summer: mountaineering, rock climbing) can vary in difficulty from AD- to TD+ (according to the French Alpine scale). The abilities of the participants and the group as a whole determine the choice of route and summits. Independent alpine climbing/mountaineering is a prerequisite for participation.

The routes (spring) require an approach with skis. Skitouring experience up to difficulty scale WS/PD (UIAA / French Alpine Scale) and basic alpine experience in crampon climbing up to 45° / rock UIAA 2nd degree are sufficient for your participation. Tour destinations can exceed this level and tours in the mixed area or ice climbing can also be chosen.

Shimshal, Karakoram: In 2020, we made the best of the pandemic crisis to travel twice into the Karakoram range. While many other areas were closed, Felix Berg was able to explore some mountains and valleys of the Shimshal region with a small team. They did the first ascent of the 6000m-peak Chashkin I and a 5800m mountain (christened AM Peak). In the Momhil valley, they have made a 6000m-peak ascent. As a result, this program was designed for us to be on exploration in the Shimshal more often from now on.

Alpinist in the Shimshal Karakoram with view of K2 | © SummitClimb Felix Berg

Infos

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

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12. Apr - 04. May 2025
06. Sep - 28. Sep 2025

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