Ama Dablam Summit: Felix und Magdalena, Blick auf Mount Everest (2016 Expedition)

Ama Dablam Climb - Expedition Nepal

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Basic costs:
1.950,00 €
Full service:
6.980,00 €
Status:

Ama Dablam - 6,848 m / 22,467 ft - Nepal

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01. Nov - 30. Nov 2020
30. Oct - 28. Nov 2021

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Climb Ama Dablam, one of the most iconic mountains of the world:
+ The emblem of the Khumbu, Nepal
+ Experienced expedition leaders
+ Loyal and strong Sherpas
+ Great setup, beautiful camps

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

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Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

Ama Dablam Climb - Expedition Nepal

Ama Dablam is located in the heart of the Sherpa Empire near Mount Everest, and described by many as the most famous rock and ice climbing mountain in Asia. The first ascent was by the famous Ed Hillary Silver Hut Expedition in 1961, when Bishop (USA), Gill (NZ), Romanes (NZ), and Ward (UK) reached the summit over the southwest ridge on 13th of March. In the meantime this perhaps most beautiful mountain in Nepal has become one of the most popular. What awaits you at Ama Dablam? A highly alpine Via-Ferrata or a big Himalayan expedition? - We are your expedition provider with experienced teams and excellent logistics. Join our climb of Ama Dablam with renowned and experienced leaders.

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Climb Ama Dablam

SummitClimb has been organizing expeditions at Ama Dablam since 1998 (see more under "Experiences"). We have international teams with Sherpas from Nepal and participants from all over the world. A good atmosphere on the expedition quickly comes up on its own. Depending on your experience and wishes you can decide, which support you want to climb: You can find more information under "Costs & Services". You will find a list of equipment for your personal material under "Prepare" together with information on the required fitness and technical skills for your successful ascent of Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam - General Information

Ama Dablam in the last light of the day (picture (c) Felix Berg)Team of mountaineers infront of Ama Dablam (picture (c) Felix Berg)

(1) Ama Dablam in the evening light, view from the base camp. (2) Participants and Sherpas are happy about their success, at Camp 1.


Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Mahalangur Himal in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas, Nepal. The altitudes measurements vary between 6'812 and 6'856 meters (22'349 to 22'493 feet). The ascent is considered demanding and requires the official permission of the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism. The Ama Dablam is called the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas" (or of Nepal) because of the jagged impressive shape of the mountain, reminding of our famous home mountain in Switzerland.

The first ascent goes back to the famous Ed Hillary Silver Hut Expedition in 1961. Bishop (USA), Gill (NZ), and Ward (UK) reached the summit on 13 March after 20 days of hard work over the southwest ridge. Since then the mountain counts more than 3500 ascents (status: 11.04.2020), most of them over the SW ridge.

Route: The normal ascent is along the route of the first ascent. A planned route can be found under "itinerary" and the expected difficulties under "conditions". Every year several hundred mountaineers climb the Ama Dablam over the southwest ridge. Just like on the real Matterhorn, you shouldn't expect a lonely mountain tour.

Season: The best time to climb the Ama Dablam is in the post-monsoon season from the beginning of October to the end of November. The weather is then more stable and the snow conditions are better. In the pre-monsoon the weather is more unstable, the flanks of the Ama Dablam are icier, and only due to the higher temperatures the high eight-thousanders (like Mount Everest) are preferred. However, it is colder and often windy in the post-monsoon. At an altitude of about 7000 meters, you have to make sure that your equipment is warm enough.

SummitClimb Ama Dablam - What awaits me/us?

Targets: We value and offer you:

  1. Security
  2. Good teamwork for an unforgettable time
  3. Climbing the Ama Dablam

We work with very experienced sherpas who know the route very well and set up the best campsites, an excellent kitchen team and dedicated expedition leaders - the basics for your and our successful expedition.

Expedition leadership: Presumably Felix Berg and/or Daniel Mazur - see more under SummitClimb - Expedition leaders & guides

We are excellent experts with worldwide expedition experience and Himalayan expertise. Depending on the size of the group, one or two additional assistant leaders/mountain guides will accompany the expedition. In this way, we can guarantee good support on the mountain.

The Ama Dablam is a highly frequented mountain. The base camp will be well situated and comfortably furnished. As one of the established teams on the mountain, we have an influence on the laying of the fixed ropes (which is coordinated by all larger providers) and enough Sherpa power to build up a good warehouse logistics. For the 2nd camp and the walk to the summit, we have a special trick in our pockets to get you the best possible chance to summit. We are looking forward to a joint expedition with you.

Preparation: After registration, you will get your first briefing with detailed information and tips about the Ama Dablam expedition. In addition, we regularly plan preparatory events in the Alps and Pyrenees, where our experts prepare you for the expedition in theory and practice. We will be happy to advise you on participation and training. Our office in Berlin is at your disposal. The office also serves as a back office for expedition logistics from flights to all formalities of the ascent (permits, etc.). Shortly before the expedition, there will be a second briefing with further information about the expedition (final team, meeting point, contacts, hotels, etc.). The sooner you decide, the more we can help you with your preparation to climb Ama Dablam.

Summit: With a bit of Fortuna - weather, conditions and personal fitness play a role - we will reach the summit of Ama Dablam together.

Ama Dablam Summit: Felix and Magdalena, Mount Everest (picture (c) Felix Berg)
Mount Everest and Lhotse in the background, Felix Berg and Magdalena Wilczek in 2016 on the summit of Ama Dablam, Nepal.

Reiseerfahrungen aus unserem Blog

Ama Dablam Summit News: Bild mit Cumulus Wolken über der Ama Dablam | © SummitClimb Nepal
30.10.2019

Ama Dablam Summit

Gratulation: Heute standen Timo, Jan, Volker (von unserem deutschen Team) und Markuu (Finnland) und Dom (U.K.) zusammen mit 5 unserer

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Bergsteiger im Aufstieg zum Camp I an der Ama Dablam, Nepal. News. | © SummitClimb Nepal
24.10.2019

Ama Dablam Update

Vom 22.-23.10.19 sind wir (deutsches Team) ins ABC aufgestiegen, wo wir einen Nacht verbracht haben. Das schlechte Wetter und der

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Ama Dablam Base Camp mit Tawoche | © SummitClimb Nepal
22.10.2019

Ama Dablam BC+

Unser Team hat das Basislager der Ama Dablam erreicht und sieht gut gesegnet der Besteigung entgegen. Vorerst ist jedoch noch

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Mount Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam: Berge im Khumbu, Nepal Expedition News | © SummitClimb - Nepal
17.10.2019

Ama Dablam

Unsere 2019 Ama Dablam Expedition ist unterwegs. Am 11. Oktober ging es los Richtung Nepal, selbiger Tag, wo unser erstes

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Felix und Madgalena auf dem Gipfel der Ama Dablam mit Blick auf Everest | © SummitClimb Nepal
30.10.2018

Ama Dablam Summits

Ama Dablam Gipfelerfolg – Gratulation! Von unserer 1.Gruppe erreichten am 29. Oktober den Gipfel: – Jürgen – Christian – Juri

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25.10.2018

Ama Dablam Hochzeit

An der Ama Dablam hielt unser Expedition die obligatorische „Puga“ ab – in Anschluss an diese Zeremonie wurde noch die

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Ama Dablam Climb - Expedition Nepal

Selected dates:
to

Basic costs:
1.950,00 €
Full service:
6.980,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München oder Wien

Upgrades

More dates

01. Nov - 30. Nov 2020
30. Oct - 28. Nov 2021
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Ama Dablam costs: We can organize your climb with the simple basic package, with add-ons as the trek to basecamp and basecamp-service, as full-service-climb, which most members prefer, or beyond. Private guides, extra support-team, individually adapted itineraries: Just contact us with your requests. Later arrival and extension until 30 November are possible. We offer individuals and groups the option of organizing the expedition in their time frame and to their required services.

Costs and Services

The full-service price includes all the service-packages with a flight from Europe (without flight, individual arrangement possible of course). Services:
 
  • Organization of the entire expedition
  • Experienced SummitClimb expedition leader
  • Scheduled flights to Nepal and back from various European airports:
    - please indicate your wish
    - incl. 30kg free baggage allowance and 8kg hand baggage
  • Preparation and training weekend (optional)

Our basic climb on Ama Dablam includes:

  • Organization of the expedition
  • British, European, or American leadership
  • All permit fees and liaison officer
  • VHF radio
  • Emergency equipment and supplies
  • Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents)
  • Two nights stay in a Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.
 
Our full-service expedition additionally includes:
 
  • British, European, or American leader:
    - leadership (not guiding) for the entire expedition
    - organization of your ascent of Ama Dablam
  • Expert climbing Sherpa
    - min. 1 sherpa per 3 clients on the summit push
    - gear allowance, salary, and insurance
  • Basecamp with basecamp sleeping tent, basecamp dining tent, and tables and chairs:
    - Skillful base camp cooks
    - Three meals each day, warm drinks, snacks
  • Transport to Lulka to/from Kathmandu incl. local flights (15kg on your flight, 30kg cargo)
  • Ama Dablam base camp trek to/from Lukla for you and your personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag, max. 40 kg), including accommodation and meals on the road
  • Full base camp with dinning tent, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
  • Private tents in basecamp (no sharing)
  • Double occupancy tents above base camp:
    - 2 high camps on Ama Dablam standard route, Nepal
    - stoves, gas, high camp food
  • Use of group gear and supplies

Additional services available on Ama Dablam:

  • Private Sherpa (personal guide/porter):
    - Carries up to 10 kg (22bs) of your personal equipment between camps.
    - Carries up to 5kg of our personal equipment on summit day.
    - Climbs with you, melts water, cooks, and will be with you every step of the way.
  • Personal equipment carriage service:
    - Sherpa carries up to 10kg (22lbs) of personal equipment up and down the mountain between camps.
 
What is not included?
 
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing (available on request)
  • Additional oxygen bottles (for standard ascent not needed)
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Nepalese visas
  • Cost of jeep transportation if leaving early

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Our Ama Dablam expedition begins with a flight to Kathmandu, meeting there, an inland flight to Lukla and a beautiful five-day trek through the Khumbu Valley, the world-famous Valley of the Sherpas near Mount Everest. The base camp is picturesquely situated at the foot of the mountain on green meadows, a perfect spot for preparing the ascent and relaxing. To the top of Ama Dablam, we choose the classic southwest-ridge as our ascent route

Ama Dablam - expedition itinerary

Day 1 • Flight: Departure to Nepal
Day 2 • Latest Arrival: Kathmandu
Airport pickup, transfer to hotel in Kathmandu, Nepal, 1,300 meters (4,265 feet)
Day 3 • Orientation day: Kathmandu
Equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu
Day 4 • Flight in the Himalayas
Fly to Lukla, 2,900 meters (9,514 feet). Easy short walk to Phakding, 2,550 metres (8,366 feet). Beautiful day of light trekking. Sleep in teahouse.
Day 5 • Trek Namche Bazaar
Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,440 meters (11,286 feet). Lovely forest trek over suspension bridges. This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Sleep in teahouse.
Day 6 • Namche Bazaar
Rest & Acclimatization in Namche, the capital of the Sherpa's kingdom. Teahouse.
Day 7 • Trek to Pangboche
Walk to Pangboche 3,860 meters (12,644 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Teahouse.
Day 8 • Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Walk to Base Camp 4,570 meters (14,989 feet). Beautiful Ama Dablam base camp is on grassy meadows. Camp.
Day 9 • Ama Dablam Puga
Rest & Acclimatization around the base camp, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
Day 10 • Ama Dablam Training
Equipment check and fixed rope training day on small cliffs near base camp.
Day 11 • Trek to ABC
Walk to advanced basecamp, 5,350 meters (17,552 feet). Easy walking on paths. Sleep there.
Day 12 • Trek to Camp 1
Hike to camp 1, 5,700 meters (18,701 feet). A bit of rock-hopping in a boulder field, followed by short easy low angle scramble to C1. Return to base camp.
Day 13 • Rest
Rest and acclimatization in base camp.
Day 14 • Camp 1
Walk to camp 1. Sleep there.
Day 12 • Camp 2
Climb to camp 2, 5,900 metres (19,357 feet). Easy climbing to C2 is on good solid granite, using fixed ropes. Return to base camp.
Day 16 • Rest before Summit
Rest in base camp.
Day 17 • Rest before Summit
Rest in base camp.
Day 18 • Camp 1
Walk to Camp 1, by now a well-known pass.
Day 19 • Camp 2
Climb to Camp 2, sleep there.
Day 20 • Summit Day: Ama Dablam
Wake up in the night, eat "breakfast" and attempt the summit: 6,812 metres (22,349 feet). Summit attempt involves snow climbing over partly quite exposed ridges with a bit of mixed rock just above C2. Return and sleep in C2.
Day 21 • Descent to Base Camp
Downclimb to C1 and walk down to basecamp.
Day 22 • Base Camp
Extra day for the summit attempt.
Day 23 • Base Camp
Extra day for the summit attempt.
Day 24 • Bye Bye BC 
Pack up and descend to Pangboche village. Sleep in a teahouse.
Day 25 • Trek to Namche
Walk down to Namche Bazaar. Teahouse.
Day 26 • Trek to Lukla
Walk down from Namche to Lukla. Teahouse.
Day 27 • Kathmandu
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu. Back to our hotel.
Day 28 • Kathmandu
Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends.
Day 29 • Kathmandu
Earliest departure today: Fly home.
Day 30 • Home
Arrive safe and sound at home: the most important goal of your expedition.

Safety

Categories

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Ama Dablam: We choose the southwest ridge as the ascent route, as this is the easiest ascent to the mountain. Nevertheless, it is a steep and demanding tour with climbing sections in rock up to UIAA 5 and passages with up to 60 degrees in ice. However, almost the entire ascent to the summit, and thus, of course, the technically difficult passages, are insured with fixed ropes.

Ama Dablam - participation

Requirements: Participants of the expedition should be independent alpinists with a good knowledge of the common belay techniques. Experience in camping in winter conditions and knowledge of symptoms of altitude sickness to avoid them should be brought along. Experience in technical climbing and in high mountains is necessary for participation. A previous 6,000m+ / 19,500ft+ experience would be advantageous.
 
Technical requirements: You should be able to climb safely up to the 3rd degree of difficulty in mountain boots and be able to climb ice flanks steep up to 50°. You should know how to use a climbing clamp. Experience with abseiling eights and independent abseiling over longer distances is required.
 
Physical fitness: Endurance for 1,000 meters / 3,200 feet of technical ascent, approx. 6-10 hours, and subsequent descent (abseiling) is necessary. The necessary concentration during the descent must be very high due to the technical difficulties (constant danger of falling). A corresponding conditional reserve is necessary.
 
Danger - Warning: This expedition is associated with subjective and objective dangers. Even though we try to make the tour as safe as possible due to our many years of experience, a high degree of personal responsibility and health risk awareness is necessary. The participation of the expedition and the ascent of Ama Dablam are at your own risk and responsibility.

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Ama Dablam Experience: Since 1998 we have carried out many safe and successful expeditions to Ama Dablam. With an above-average success rate (over 70% success rate at 150+ summits, 0 serious accidents) our experience is reflected and our concept of using only expedition leaders, who know the mountain and the ascent route. An experienced team of Sherpas, who go to the summit with us, are an important part of our success.

Infos

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

Ama Dablam membership: Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 3 years and altitude experience) or send your tour report in a separate email. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements, then register online now! You are also welcome to send an inquiry and get further advice about our Ama Dablam expedition.

Basic package
Ama Dablam Basic Climb - Minimized service: Participation from Kathmandu. Without flight. Only permit and assistance in logistics.
1.950,00 €
Full service
Ama Dablam Full Service Membership: Join our team with leader, sherpas, all logistics to summit.
6.980,00 €

book

Ama Dablam Climb - Expedition Nepal

10. Oct - 08. Nov 2021

Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
https://www.summitclimb.de

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

Island Peak - Imja Tse

Preparation tour for your Ama Dablam climb

Island Peak is declared as a trekking mountain by the NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) and can, therefore, be climbed at relatively low costs with an NMA permit. This 6200m mountain is considered "easy" to climb among the six thousand meter peaks in Nepal and offers a good acclimatization for the Ama Dablam. Imja Tse, Nepali for Island Peak, is located in the Khumbu Valley near the border to Tibet between Baruntse and Lhotse. The impressive 3000m south face of Imja Tse can be seen from Island Peak. The ascent along the normal route is relatively easy, but requires more than "just" trekking. The last 400 heights follow a glacier flank and snow-covered ridge (mostly secured with fixed ropes) - this classic alpine high altitude terrain requires walking on crampons.


Upgrade costs include:

- Organization
- NMA-Permit for Imja Tse
- Sherpa mountain guide
- Transfer with 15kg personal luggage
- Overnight stays in lodge/tents along the way (4 days*)
- Full board (4 days*)
 
*these days are within the normal time-frame of our Ama Dablam expedition.

Lobuche East (6119m)

Lobuche is located above the village of the same name on the way from Pheriche to the Mount Everest base camp, about 30km southwest of Mount Everest. The ascent along the normal route is relatively easy, but requires more than just trekking. The trail follows a snow ridge with up to 50° steep parts, partly quite exposed.
 

Upgrade costs include:

- Organization
- NMA-Permit for Lobuche East
- Sherpa mountain guide
- Transfer with 15kg personal luggage
- Overnight stays in lodge/tents along the way (4 days*)
- Full board (4 days*)
 
*these days are within the normal time-frame of our Ama Dablam expedition.

Hotels - Kathamndu 

In Kathmandu, there are countless hotels in all price ranges. We choose a simple hotel at the edge of Thamel for our expeditions. The rooms are simple but clean, there is a simple breakfast. For lunch and dinner, a wide range of restaurants in the vicinity offers great variety.

If you have special wishes and interests for your accommodation at the start and/or end of your expedition, please let us know.

Request / Book
+49 (0)30 774 9034 info@summitclimb.de