Bergsteiger im Aufstieg am G2 - 2014 Expedition

G1 & G2 - Gasherbrum Expedition

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expedition leader

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Basic costs:
10.500,00 €
Full service:
19.250,00 €
Status:

Gasherbrum I and II - Expedition

Selected dates:
to

Additional options:

Climb G1 and/or G2 with our top experts:
+ Most experienced leaders and sherpas
+ Gasherbrum I - 8,080 m (26,510 ft)
+ Gasherbrum II -8,038 m (26,370 ft)
+ strong teams, basic as full-service

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

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Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

G1 & G2 - Gasherbrum Expedition

Gasherbrum I and II: The traverse of these two beautiful 8,000 meter high pyramids was made by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander in 1984. In fact, also for us, Gasherbrum I (known as Hidden Peak) and Gasherbrum II together in one expedition simply make sense: an "easier" and a "medium" 8,000 m peak ascent with the same approach and departure and base camp. Our team is stronger, the service in the base camp is more extensive and our experienced expedition leaders organize the joint logistics. Only from camp 1 at about 6,000m altitude the ascent ways separate. Depending on your skills and interests you can join for G2 or G1 or both 8,000m peaks as part of our expedition.

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G1 & G2 - Gasherbrum Expedition

Selected dates:
to

Basic costs:
10.500,00 €
Full service:
19.250,00 €

Airport of departure:

Bern, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München

Upgrades

Request / Book

G1 and G2 - costs and services: We plan to organize two teams, ideally each of 6 to 14 participants. If you participate at the basic price, you have to provide all high camp material yourself and climb the mountain independently (min. 2 joint participations). Your full-service-membership includes full support by the expedition leader, all high camp materials like tents, gas, food, and the support by high camp porters (sherpas) during the ascent.

G1 and G2 - costs and services

Full-service price: including all services (base price, base camp, high camp) from DE/AT:

Organization of the whole expedition
SummitClimb expedition leader 
Scheduled flights to Islamabad (Pakistan) - from Germany / Austria
Departure: Berlin, Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, Munich or Vienna 
4 nights in a pension in Islamabad in a double room

Base price includes the "basics" for your Gasherbrum expedition:

  • G1 or G2 climbing permit at 2023 rate (high increase to 2022)
  • Permit for both mountains (at surcharge)
  • Liaison officer and his costs 
  • Fees of the Ministry of Tourism
  • Environmental fee Baltistan-Gilgit
  • Accommodation and full board during the trip from Islamabad to Skardu
  • Local flight ISB-Skardu-ISB or alternatively acclimatized bus
  • Transfers according to the program ISB-Askole-ISB incl. 40 kg of personal luggage
  • Deposited guarantee* for a helicopter rescue (USD 15'000)
  • Extensive emergency pharmacy + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen + hyperbaric chamber.
  • Trekk to base camp incl. 40kg personal luggage
  • Trek in tents (double accommodation)
  • Full board during the trek
  • Boiled water during the trek
  • Transfer of up to 40kg personal luggage
  • All BC equipment:
    - one single tent per participant
    - group tent for (dining tent), kitchen tent, gear tent
    - shower tent and toilet tent 
  • Catering by an experienced Pakistani kitchen team 
  • Full board in base camp (three warm meals, snacks)
  • Boiled and filtered water at base camp
  • Satellite phone and email in BC (usage at a charge)
  • Solar power system with battery.

Your full-service membership additionally includes:

  • Experienced expedition leader 
  • Pakistani high camp porters and/or Sherpa:
    - 1 porter per 4 participants
    - Helicopter rescue insurance for the staff
  • All high camp equipment like tents, stoves, pots, and gas
  • Fixed ropes, group ropes and fixing material 
  • UHF/VHF radios (5 Watt) 
     
What is not included?
 
  • International flights to/from Islamabad
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance*
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing (available on request)
  • Oxygen bottles, regulator, and mask (available on request)
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Pakistan visa
  • Cost transportation if leaving early

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G2 and G1 expedition: We are planning with a time frame of 48 days for either of the 8,000 meters peaks and for the Doubleheader G1&2 with an 8-day extension (see Upgrade). From the preparation in the Alps to the coordination and perfect organization in Pakistan, we offer you the framework for your Gasherbrum ascent. Here you will find the planned expedition schedule.

Gasherbrum G2 / G1 - expedition itinerary

I. Reaching the Gasherbrum mountains

Day 1 - Arrival: Individual departure: scheduled flight from Europe, probably with QATAR or TURKISH Airlines.
Day 2 - Islamabad: Arrival early in the morning, airport transfer, and accommodation in a simple, private hotel in Rawalpindi/Islamabad - For security reasons we avoid the big international chains. Expedition briefing. Hotel BnB.
Day 3 - Skardu / Chilas: Ideally flight to Skardu (requires approx. USD150 additional costs). Otherwise by bus via the Karakorum Highway to Chilas. From Besham, a small market town, where lunch is served, the most impressive part of the journey begins. We drive through the dizzying gorge of the Indus River. Journey approx. 10 hours. Flight approx. 45 min - overnight stay. Hotel FB.
Day 4 - Skardu: Reserve day: If the flight takes place, we continue with the program of day 5. The journey takes another eight to ten hours, passing Nanga Parbat and through the deep gorges of the Indus to Skardu. Overnight stay in the comfortable Concordia Motel with a wonderful view over the Indus valley, we will stop for a break. Camp FB, altitude: 2,280m (7,480 ft)
Day 5 - Skardu: Free day to organize. If you are interested, we can drive by jeep in half an hour to Satpara Lake with its crystal clear water, from where we will take a half-day acclimatization hike with a view of the first mountains of the Karakoram. The expedition leader stays in Skardu and takes care of the last formalities. Camp FB, altitude: 2,280m (7,480 ft)
Day 6 - Askole: By jeep, the Braldu Gorge is reached through the lovely Shigar Valley via Dasu. Depending on the conditions, the road can be driven to Askole, the last village, or vehicles may have to be changed about 8 hours drive. Camp FB, altitude: 3,048 m (10,000 ft)
Day 7 - Askole - Jhola: The expected 7-day march to Gasherbrum base camp begins. Today we follow the course of the river Braldu past the Biafo glacier, Korophon (lunch break) to the junction with the Dumordo river. We cross it to reach the camp Jhola, approx. 5 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude above sea level: 3,160 m. (10,367 ft)
Day 8 - Jhola - Paiju: Continuing, partly adventurously close, along the Braldu we reach after some up and down the camp at a green forested island called Paiju, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB.
Day 9 - Paiju: At Paiju, already with a view of the Great Trango Tower and the spikes of the cathedral, we spend a traditional rest day for the porters and for acclimatization. Camp FB, altitude: 3,450 m (11,320 ft)
Day 10 - Paiju - Urdukas: The next day, after a short distance, the 60 kilometers long Baltoro glacier is entered. A laborious up and down over moraines (but with a view of the Trango towers) leads to the southern edge of the glacier, past the Liligo camp to Urdukas, approx. 8 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude: 4,150 m (13,615 ft)
Day 11 - Urdukas - Goro II: We enter the glacier and walk past Masherbrum and Muztagh Tower to the campsite, from now on the ice, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)
Day 12 - Goro II - Concordia: In view of the ever more powerful Gasherbrum IV we reach the famous Concordiaplatz with a view of K2, Chogolisa, and Broad Peak, approx. 4 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,800m (15,750 ft)
Day 13 - Concordia - Gasherbrum BC: The trail branches off to the south. Along with the upper Baltoro and Abruzzi glaciers, we reach the base camp under the basin of the Gasherbrum group, about 5 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 5,000 m (16,404 ft).
Day 14 - Gasherbrum BC (Basecamp): We spend a full day to set up and further acclimatize. Camp FB, altitude: 5,000m (16,404 ft).

II. Climbing Gasherbrum I / II

We have 26 days for acclimatization and climbing. The ascent is along the normal route and the climb is very much exposed to weather and conditions. A possible (idealized!) procedure would be
 
Day 15 - Camp 1 (C1): Ascent and setup for an overnight stay in the 1st high camp - C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)
Day 16 - Camp 2 (C2): Ascent and material depot in the 2nd high camp - C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft) - and descent to the overnight stay in C1.
Day 17 - BC: descent and rest in base camp
Day 18 - BC: Rest day at base camp
Day 19 - C1: Ascent to the overnight stay in C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)
Day 20 - C2: Ascent to overnight stay in C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft)
Day 21 - Camp 3 - Touch: Ascent and material depot in the 3rd high camp at 7000m (22,965 ft) and descent to C1.
Day 22 - BC: Descent and rest in base camp
Day 23 - BC: Rest day at base camp
Day 24 - BC: rest day at base camp
Day 25 - C1: Summit push: Ascent to C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)
Day 26 - C2: Summit push: Ascent to C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft)
Day 27- C3: Summit push: Ascent to C3 at 7000m (22,965 ft)
Day 28 - Summit day: Ascent to the Gasherburm II - summit at 8,035 m (26,362 ft)
Day 29 - C1: Descent to the C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)
Day 30 - BC: Descent to base camp
 
Extra days (31-40): We have a total of ten days as a reserve. Most likely we will need additional days due to weather (snow, wind, storm) or conditions (danger of avalanches). The acclimatization at 5000m altitude (base camp) level is certainly not yet completed after 2 weeks and further nights in the comfortable base camp will improve our later summit chances.
 
Hidden Peak (G1): The team at Gasherbrum I will proceed similarly and try to reach at least 7000m altitude during the acclimatization. With the help of our porters/guides, we will set up the camps and attach fixed ropes. The team of the doubleheader G I & G II (if necessary +8 days) will use these and relieve the 1st team during the dismantling.

III. Trek via Gondokoro La

Day 41 - Base camp: Today you have to arrive at the base camp at the latest and should prepare your things for the next day's departure.
Day 42 - Base camp - Camp Ali: We dismantle the base camp and cross the upper Baltoro glacier to Camp Ali at 4,820m (15,815 ft) between Mitre Peak and Chogolisa.
Day 43 - Camp Ali - Gondokoro: As the last highlight of the expedition we cross the Gondokoro La Pass at 5,650m (18,540 ft) into the Hushe Valley. The pass has to be crossed early (or at night) - in the sunrise a great panorama shows up - and then follows the steep descent to Husbang, the crossing of the Gondokoro glacier.
Day 44 - Camp Ali - Gondokoro: The last stage with views of the K6-K7 region and the other side of Masherbrum brings us back to Hushe - towards civilization. The drive through the green Hushe Valley back to Skardu takes six hours. Accommodation as at the beginning of the Concordia Motel.
Day 45+46: Return flight to Rawalpindi. Should the weather not be suitable, we have to start the return trip in 24 hours via the Karakorum Highway.
Day 47: Day for debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism and free time in Rawalpindi / Islamabad. Reserve day for the return journey.
Day 48: Return flight in the early morning and arrival in Germany or Austria, Switzerland.

Safety

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G2 and G1 expedition: The ascent of G2 belongs to the "easier" of the 8000m ascents. However, nothing is really "easy" above 8000m: You have to be fit and a mountaineer with basic technical knowledge of alpine tours. G1 is considered even more demanding and the double ascent - 2x 8000m - is certainly a great challenge.

G1 and G2 - Want to join the expedition?

Requirements: You are an independent alpinist and high altitude climber who meets the technical and physical requirements. Ideally, you have experience in mountaineering around 7,000 m+ / 23,000 ft+ altitude and you tolerate the altitude well. You should have experience in camping in winter conditions.
 
Technical requirements (G2 - Gasherbrum II): Independent alpine touring, at least AD+ according to French standards Alpine Scale (experience in alpine touring). Climbing up to at least 50° in ice/snow and easy block climbing (up to III. difficulty ridge) with mountaineering boots, also without belaying, is required. Safe use of self-belay, ascent clamp (introduction again in the base camp), when abseiling and roping up on the glacier and crevasse recovery are necessary.
 
Technical requirements (G1 - Hidden Peak): As for G2 and safe climbing up to 60° in ice and longer steep passages in the Japanese couloir.
 
Physical requirements: You should have the physical condition for up to 1000 meters of altitude* ascent to over 7000m altitude. The summit stage takes 12 to 18 hours. The ascent requires several days of mountaineering and transportation of personal equipment to the camps (backpack with 12 to 15kg**). Physical robustness and the willingness to forego comfort are necessary.
 
Danger note: You participate in this expedition independently and at your own risk. The extreme height and extreme cold will inevitably bring dangers. Due to the high altitude, the rescue possibilities are extremely limited.
 
*at an alpine level this means at least 2500Hm ascent in 8 to 10 hours.
**for basic participants 4-5 kg more material (tent, rope, etc.) must be expected.

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Gasherbrum experience: On July 16, 2018, our mountaineers Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg were the only mountaineers - as members of our expedition . to reach the highest point of Gasherbrum II in a difficult season, and they even managed a new variation through the west face. For 2021 we plan to be back on the Gasherburms - please inquire now.

Infos

Registration with PDF file

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

Join our G1 + G2 expedition: Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 5 years and altitude experience) or send your tour report in a separate email. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements (see information), then book online now! You are also welcome to send an inquiry and get further advice before joining our Gasherbrum expedition.

Basic package
Gasherbrum Basic: All permits to climb (either G1 or G2), travel from Islamabad (ISB) to base camp and base camp service.
10.500,00 €
Full service
Full service membership: Join or team to climb G1 or G2 with leader, sherpa, basecamp and highcamp setup.
19.250,00 €

book

G1 & G2 - Gasherbrum Expedition

15. Jun - 01. Aug 2024

Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
https://www.summitclimb.de

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

Doubleheader G1 & G2

Gasherbrum I and II - in one expedition (48+8 days = 56 days)
 
For this 8000m double ascent, we need another permit and the double camp chain on the mountain. You should have the fitness and stamina to climb two eight-thousanders in one season - an exciting challenge. We plan with 4 additional days.
 
The procedure of the 2nd ascent:
1st day - Rest in C1
2nd day - Ascent C2
3rd day - Ascent C3
Day 4 - Summit and descent
 
Services:
 
Costs: USD 4,600.- / EUR 3.750,- per person
 
*Refund 50% if we only tackle one of the two mountains due to the weather/conditions (no camp chain could be set up)

Gasherbrum I and II in one expedition
(48+8 days = 56 days)

For this 8000m double ascent we need another permit and plan a few more days supply at base camp. 
 
You should have the fitness and stamina to climb two eight-thousanders in one season. It is not easy but a very attractive option. 
 
Services:
 
Note: At least 2 joint applications are necessary.
 
Costs: EUR 1.980,- per person

1:1 Summit Guide

Your personal mountain guide & high camp porter
G1 or G2 - extra costs: USD 5,400.- / EUR 4.750,-
G1 and G2 - extra costs: USD 7,000.- / EUR 6.000,-

Our 1:1 Summit Guide works for you as a mountain guide and personal porter (HAP) during the entire mountain activity above Gasherbrum Base Camp. Once the route and high camp are established, you will be able to climb at your own pace. We plan our summit day(s) accordingly to conditions (wind, precipitation, avalanche danger) and our expedition leader can ideally schedule your summit push wit 1:1 guide as part of our overall team.

8000m - Mountain Guide

At the 8000 meters, the air gets thin and a mountain guide should ideally lead only one client. At most, two clients who know each other well on the mountain and have very clear agreements (turn around together, similar fitness level) can share a mountain guide. With our mountain guide upgrade, your Summit-Climb-participation becomes your personal 1:1 guided expedition. The guide will be one of our professional Summit-guides from Pakistan or Nepal.

HAP - Sherpa

Your Summit-guide additionally helps you as high altitude porter (HAP) with the transport of your personal equipment. He accompanies you to the high camps and on the summitpush. Sherpa, an ethnic group from Nepal, also work as HAP in Pakistan, but their costs are higher due to the travel and the necessary permit fees.

Karakorum Expeditions

In Pakistan there are only a limited number of really capable climbers working as HAP and guides. Together with our agency, we select the best, train and prepare them for our expeditions. For the guiding work on the Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II climb there are very few Pakistanis that we can employ. Accordingly, a timely booking on your part is necessary - preferably at least 6 months before the start of the season.

Last-Minute HAP / Sherpa

In case of late booking we can look for a HAP, if necessary externally, or alternatively, we can engage a Sherpa from Nepal or an international IVBV mountain guide with altitude experience at an extra charge.

Services

The upgrade to expedition participation includes:

Not included: Recommended tip of USD 500 to USD 1000 each summit (G1/G2)

Costs per Summit-Guide:

Sherpa upgrade:

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+49 (0)30 774 9034 info@summitclimb.de