Wolken ziehen um die Gipfelpyramide des Khan Tengri

Khan Tengri Expedition

30. July - 19. August 2023

+49 (0)30 774 9034

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expedition leader

Central Asia Team SummitClimb in Central Asia: Pamir & Tien Shan Expeditions

Basic costs:: 2.350,00 €

Full service:: 5.250,00 €

Status:

Khan Tengri - 7,010 m (23,000 ft) - Kyrgyzstan

Selected dates:
30. Jul to 19. Aug 2023

More dates

15. Jul - 04. Aug 2023

Additional options:

Pik Pobeda Extension

Join us to climb Khan Tengri:
+ Together with experienced experts
+ Central Asia's most beautiful peak
+ Challenging mixed-route

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.

1 - easy

2 - quite difficult

3 - difficult

4 - very difficult

5 - extreme

Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.

Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.

2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).

3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.

4 - High Endurance - Expedition

To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.

5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete.

Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

Climb 7000m peaks

Khan Tengri Expedition

Khan Tengri is without doubt one of the most beautiful mountains on earth. This 7,010 meter (22,999 feet) high pyramid made of almost white marble is surrounded by huge glaciers and lies far away from any civilization in the heart of the Tien Shan, the "Mountains of Heaven", on the Kyrgyz-Kazakh-Chinese border. Undoubtedly, the jewel under the five peaks of the "snow leopard award" is Khan Tengri. Our international teams with professional mountain guides, some of the best in the mountaineers in the world, await you for a challenging climb of a truly unique mountain.

Khan Tengri

Kyrgyzstan is often referred to as the "Switzerland of Central Asia" and due to Khan Tengri's counterpart, the Matterhorn, the mountain often is called the "Matterhorn of Central Asia". Antoli Boukreev, the famous Russian mountaineer, considered Khan Tengri to be the most beautiful mountain in the world. Whoever finds himself here on our website probably knows the impressive pictures of Khan Tengri and wants to stand on this mountain: The ascent is challenging and rewarding. Its geologic elevation is 6,995 m (22,949 ft), but its glacial cap rises to 7,010 m (22,999 ft). It was a Soviet expedition that first conquered the summit of Khan-Tengri peak in 1931, via the West Ridge and West Col. Soviet teams have climbed the majority of Khan-Tengri’s faces and ridges since then. We offer you the right setting for this expedition, have the right contacts and are happy to integrate your wishes individually into your expedition.

Team & Guides

Felix Berg, the CEO of SummitClimb.de, has personally climbed Khan Tengri in 2017 in a non-stop push from ABC to the summit: 3000m ascent to 7000m in 14h ascent time (including 3h break). Boris Dedeschko, a winner of the Piolet d'Or 2010, one of our Kazakh mountain guides, was there, as well as Jürgen Oblinger (turnaround at 6700m), meanwhile IVBV mountain guide and a permanent member of our team. Both in 2018 and 2019 we had successful teams at Khan Tengri again, then at normal speed with 2 or 3 nights in the high camps. The fact that we privately run to the summit of Khan Tengri shows: it is our passion to climb mountains. Many of our guides know the Khan Tengri like the back of their hands. We know exactly what is important on this mountain. We cordially invite you to be part of our team at Khan Tengri.

Reiseerfahrungen aus unserem Blog

21.08.2021

Khan Tengri Summit erreicht – Tian Shan 2021

Unser Summit-Team war am 19. August unterwegs und konnte den Gipfel des Khan Tengri erreichen. Herzlichen Glückwunsch an Felix und

10.08.2021

Khan Tengri Update

Neues von unseren Teams auf dem Khan Tengri: Team 1: Aufgrund eines sehr engen Zeitplans und eines extrem kurzen Wetterfensters

04.08.2021

Base Camp erreicht und Aufstieg am Khan Tengri

Direkt nach Ankunft der neuen Teilnehmer der Khan Tengri Expedition 2021 am 02. August in Bishkek fuhren wir nach Kakara

02.08.2021

Start der Khan Tengri Expedition

Unsere 2021 Khan Tengri Expedition beginnt. Heute machen sich auf dem Weg in die Tiefen des Tian Shan: Magdalena, Expeditionsleiterin

19.05.2020

Flexibel in die Berge

Für unsere Sommertouren haben wie bei SummitClimb auf maximale Flexibilität umgestellt. Natürlich wollen und müssen wir trotz der Umstände fest

24.08.2019

Tragödie am Pik Pobeda

Leider müssen wir den Verlust von zwei unserer Bergführer, Alexander Chechulin und Andrey Korneev, zusammen mit ihrem Freund Murat Otepbaev

Want to go on an adventure?

Khan Tengri Expedition

Selected dates:
30. Jul to 19. Aug 2023

Basic costs:: 2.350,00 €

Full service:: 5.250,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, München oder Stuttgart.

Upgrades

More dates

15. Jul - 04. Aug 2023

Request / Book

Khan Tengri - Costs & Services: You can join "basic" or "full-service" or beyond (personal guided, etc.) - please contact us if you have any questions or require a personalized package.

Costs & Services - Khan Tengri Expedition

The basic package includes:

Organization of your Khan Tengri expedition
All necessary permits, IVIR registration, and environmental fee
Airport transfers in Bishkek
2 overnight stay in Bishkek, double room, b&bf
1 overnight stay in Karakara camp, b&fb
2 overnight stays at Issyk Kul, b&fb
Transfers Bishkek - Karakara - Bishkek
Flight Karakara - South Inylchek Base Camp with 40kg personal luggage
South Inylchek Base Camp:
- stationary tent, food tent, shower tent, storage room, toilet tent, showers, and sauna.
- Catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day in base camp
- Large double tent in base camp with mattress
- Emergency service in base camp (registration with rescue team, radio equipment)
- Medical service at base camp, local doctor present
South Inylchek Base Camp

Consultation service for local guides (service against surcharge)
Consultation at South Inylchek Base Camp for your climb

Full-service-membership additionally includes:

SummitClimb expedition leader:
- Small groups of up to 7 participants are led by one of our most experienced local English-speaking mountain guides,
- Groups of 8 to max 14 full-service participants will additionally be led by one of our international SummitClimb leaders
Additional guides per every 4 team members including their insurance, equipment, costs
All high-camp equipment:
- tents for two camps
- stoves and pots, gas
- glacier ropes and fixing ropes
- firn anchors
- radios
High-camp food (to be prepared by yourself)
High camp support (you will need to help too)
Satellite phone on the mountain
Professional weather forecast (ZAMG Innsbruck)
Extensive emergency medical kits for high camps

Flights (included only in full-service):

Economy return-flight from Europe to Bishkek
Several major airports available
With 30 kg free luggage and 7-10 kg hand luggage
(you may organize your own flights too and we will meet you on arrival)

Not included:

Personal equipment and private expenses (such as telephone calls, alcoholic drinks, gifts, tips, etc.)
Day and evening meals in Bishkek
Insurances (emergency, evacuation, medical are required, travel cancelation is recommended).

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Khan Tengri Climb: A Soviet expedition first conquered the summit of Khan-Tengri peak in 1931 via the West Ridge and West Col. One of the classical routes starts from the south. The Western Col is reached from the Southern Inylchek glacier. Among mountaineers, this route is very popular. To climb peak Khan-Tengri 3 or 4 camps will be used taking into consideration weather conditions at the time.

Khan Tengri - Expedition itinerary

Day 1 - Arrival in Bishkek: International flight, transfer to the hotel, city tour with visit of the Osh Bazaar. Here we still have the opportunity to do some shopping. Accommodation in the hotel.

Day 2 - Tien Shan: We drive (460 km) to the helicopter station Karkara at the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border. We stop at Issyk-Kul, the second largest mountain lake on earth, picturesquely situated in front of the snow-covered chains of the Tien Shan. Last chance to go swimming! Through a wide valley with meadows, we drive to Karkara, a small village on the Kazakh border, where our helicopter is stationed.

Day 3 - Base Camp: Flight with a helicopter of the Kyrgyz military to the base camp "South Inilchek" (4,000 m / 13,120 ft). We will fly over vast mountain terrain, wild valleys with large glacial rivers, and finally cross the main chains of the Tien Shan. Landing on the moraine of the Southern Iniltschek Glacier, where our base camp is set up: with kitchen tent, living tents, and even a sauna. We are supplied by the legendary Kyrgyz mountaineer Dima Grekov and his team.

Day 4-5 - Base Camp / small hikes: Acclimatization and preparation for the ascent. Depending on your well-being we will have a rest day or a short hike. We prepare the material for the first acclimatization excursion to the altitude.

Day 6 - High Camp 1: Ascent to C1 (4,200 m / 13,780 ft), overnight stay there. We walk for about an hour along trail tracks across the moraine, then we cross over to the flat Iniltschek glacier to the foot of Khan Tengri. There we establish camp 1 and enjoy the surrounding mountains, especially the impressive south face of Khan Tengri.

Day 7 - High Camp 2: Ascent to C2 (5,500 m / 18,045 ft), where we spend the night. Very early, still in the middle of the night, we set off and climb up the narrow valley between Peak Chapaev and Khan Tengri towards the West Col. The path leads over an increasingly torn glacier with deep crevasses and impressive ice towers - roping up is absolutely necessary. The crossing under Peak Chapaev is particularly exciting with seracs above us. We have to hurry to cross the passage before the first sunrays hit the slope. After the strenuous ascent, we enjoy the rest of the day in camp 2 and hope not to have too much altitude adjustment problems.

Day 8 - High Camp 3: Ascent to C3 (5,900 m / 19,357 ft), where we spend the night either in a tent or in a snow cave. From camp 2 we ascend over relatively flat snow slopes to the West Col. At noon this ascent can become very hot, as the sunlight in this glacier basin is very intense. Shortly below the West Col we pitch our tents or make ourselves comfortable in one of the snow caves. Here on the south side of the saddle, we are protected from the cold wind.

Day 9 - Base camp: Descent to base camp. Very early in the morning, we descend. The most important tools are the ski poles. The descent is amazingly fast, in a few hours we are back in camp 1, around noon in base camp. With the overnight stay at 5,900 meters / 19,350 feet we are acclimatized for the summit.

Day 10: Recreation day: Food, sauna, lying in the sun, dozing in the sleeping bag. Expedition life as it should and may be.

Day 11: Recreation day: Packing the equipment for the summit push.

Day 12 - Khan Tengri ascent, C1: In the morning we will relax, at noon we will make our way to high camp 1.

Day 13 - Khan Tengri ascent, C3: Ascent to high camp 3. Also this time we leave early from camp 1, but thanks to acclimatization the ascent is faster than the first time. In camp two we have a thorough break, then we start the second, strenuous and hot part of the ascent towards the west saddle, where our snow cave or tents are waiting for us.

Day 14 - Khan Tengri Ascent: Like all summit days, this day starts very early. We leave the shelter of the snow cave and climb the fixed rope to the saddle in freezing temperatures. From there it goes along the increasingly steep and rocky west ridge, where the first rays of sun hit us. A magnificent panorama opens up: mountain ranges to the horizon, huge glaciers, the mighty 7439-meter Pik Pobeda peak. And of course the view into the massive 3,000 meters (10,000 feet!) high Khan-Tengri north face. We secure ourselves on the fixed ropes with jumars. After a few hours we reach the tiny space for Camp IV (6400 meters), where we stop for a moment, drink tea and fortify ourselves. We continue up the steep, stepped rock ridge until we cross to the right at about 6,600 meters (21,650 feet), overcome an approximately vertical passage of approximately 20 meters on fixed ropes and reach a narrow snow ridge at about 6,800 meters (22,300 feet) through a steep couloir. All difficult passages are insured with fixed ropes. Over the last rocks and the survey triangle, we reach the immaculately flat summit dome of Khan Tengri. A great moment. After the strenuous ascent with a difference in altitude of 1,200 meters (3,900 feet), we have to concentrate fully on the long and demanding descent. We abseil off the fixed ropes and reach the west saddle again via Camp IV. A very long and tiring day.

Day 15 - Back to Base Camp: Descent to the base camp. Put your ski poles up and down.

Day 16 - Reserve day: In case of bad weather or longer acclimatization we use these days. In the Tien Shan there are often bad weather phases with lots of fresh snow. That's why we have to include reserve days to sit out the bad weather (best of course in the base camp with good food, the proven bar, and the sauna)

Day 17-18: Additional reserve days (e.g. in bad weather, longer acclimatization).

Day 19 - Issyk Kul: Departure to the base camp "Karkara" and transfer to Issyk-Kul. Summer, sun, swimming in the lake…. Ice cream, melons, shish kebab ... Hotel accommodation.

Day 20 - Bishkek: Free day at Issyk Kul, late afternoon drive to Bishkek. In the evening we end the expedition in a good restaurant (e.g. Dungan cuisine or a German brewery).

Day 21 - Finish: Transfer to the airport, departure and travel home.

Safety

Participation: What it needs to climb Khan Tengri

Requirements: Participants of the expedition should be mountaineers with a good knowledge of the common belay techniques. Experience of camping in winter conditions and knowledge of symptoms of altitude sickness to avoid them should be brought along. Experience in technical climbing and in high mountains is absolutely necessary for participation. Prior 6000m+ experience is helpful In Tien Shan there are bad weather fronts every summer, which bring up to one meter of snow. Therefore patience is essential - we have included extra reserve days for bad weather in our program.

Technical requirements: You should be able to climb safely up to the UIAA 3rd-4th degree of difficulty in big boots with crampons and be able to climb ice flanks with a steepness of up to 60°. You should be familiar with the use of crampons. Experience with abseiling eights and independent abseiling over longer distances are required.

Physical requirements: Endurance for 1,200 meters / 3,900 feet of technical ascent, approx. 6-10 hours, and subsequent descent (abseiling) is necessary. The necessary concentration during the descent must be very high due to the technical difficulties (constant danger of falling). A corresponding conditional reserve is necessary. The Khan Tengri is considered a very cold mountain, even in summer temperatures can fall to minus 25 degrees. Appropriate altitude or winter experience and equipment are necessary.

Danger note: This expedition is associated with subjective and objective dangers. This includes especially the ascent from camp 1 to camp 2, where you have to cross under a steep wall with seracs and cornices. Avalanches are to be expected here. Even though we try to make the tour as safe as possible due to our many years of experience, a high degree of personal responsibility and risk awareness is necessary. The participation is at your own responsibility and risk.

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

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Book Khan Tengri: Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 3 years and altitude experience) or send your tour report in a separate email. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements (see information), then book online now! You are also welcome to send an inquiry and get further advice before joining our Khan Tengri expedition.

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Khan Tengri Expedition

30. Jul - 19. Aug 2023

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de