Khan Tengri - 7,010 m (23,000 ft) - Kyrgyzstan
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Join us to climb Khan Tengri:
+ Together with experienced experts
+ Central Asia's most beautiful peak
+ Challenging mixed-route
Stamina - Endurance
A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).
Unser Summit-Team war am 19. August unterwegs und konnte den Gipfel des Khan Tengri erreichen. Herzlichen Glückwunsch an Felix und
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Neues von unseren Teams auf dem Khan Tengri: Team 1: Aufgrund eines sehr engen Zeitplans und eines extrem kurzen Wetterfensters
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Direkt nach Ankunft der neuen Teilnehmer der Khan Tengri Expedition 2021 am 02. August in Bishkek fuhren wir nach Kakara
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Unsere 2021 Khan Tengri Expedition beginnt. Heute machen sich auf dem Weg in die Tiefen des Tian Shan: Magdalena, Expeditionsleiterin
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Für unsere Sommertouren haben wie bei SummitClimb auf maximale Flexibilität umgestellt. Natürlich wollen und müssen wir trotz der Umstände fest
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Leider müssen wir den Verlust von zwei unserer Bergführer, Alexander Chechulin und Andrey Korneev, zusammen mit ihrem Freund Murat Otepbaev
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Berlin, Düsseldorf, München oder Stuttgart.
The basic package includes:
Full-service-membership additionally includes:
Flights (included only in full-service):
Not included:
Day 1 - Arrival in Bishkek: International flight (arrival this evening, night, early next morning latest) and transfer to the hotel.
Day 2 - Preparation day, Bishkek: Team meeting, gear check, time for a city tour, and opportunity to do some shopping. Accommodation in the hotel.
Day 3 - Tien Shan: We drive (460 km) to the helicopter station Karkara at the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border. We stop at Issyk-Kul, the second largest mountain lake on earth, picturesquely situated in front of the snow-covered chains of the Tien Shan. Last chance to go swimming! Through a wide valley with meadows, we drive to Karkara, a small village on the Kazakh border, where our helicopter is stationed.
Day 4 - Base Camp: Flight with a helicopter of the Kyrgyz military to the base camp "South Inilchek" (4,000 m / 13,120 ft). We will fly over vast mountain terrain, wild valleys with large glacial rivers, and finally cross the main chains of the Tien Shan. Landing on the moraine of the Southern Iniltschek Glacier, where our base camp is set up: with a kitchen tent, living tents, and even a sauna. We are supplied by the legendary Kyrgyz mountaineer Dima Grekov and his team.
Day 5 - Base Camp / small hikes: Acclimatization and preparation for the ascent. Depending on your well-being we will have a rest day or a short hike. We prepare the material for the first acclimatization excursion to the altitude.
Day 6 - High Camp 1: Ascent to C1 (4,200 m / 13,780 ft), overnight stay there. We walk for about an hour along trail tracks across the moraine, then we cross over to the flat Iniltschek glacier to the foot of Khan Tengri. There we establish camp 1 and enjoy the surrounding mountains, especially the impressive south face of Khan Tengri.
Day 7 - High Camp 2: Ascent to C2 (5,500 m / 18,045 ft), where we spend the night. Very early, still, in the middle of the night, we set off and climb up the narrow valley between Peak Chapaev and Khan Tengri towards the West Col. The path leads over an increasingly torn glacier with deep crevasses and impressive ice towers - roping up is absolutely necessary. The crossing under Peak Chapaev is particularly exciting with seracs above us. We have to hurry to cross the passage before the first sunrays hit the slope. After the strenuous ascent, we enjoy the rest of the day in camp 2 and hope not to have too many altitude adjustment problems.
Day 8 - High Camp 3: Ascent to C3 (5,900 m / 19,357 ft), where we spend the night either in a tent or in a snow cave. From camp 2 we ascend over relatively flat snow slopes to the West Col. At noon this ascent can become very hot, as the sunlight in this glacier basin is very intense. Shortly below the West Col we pitch our tents or make ourselves comfortable in one of the snow caves. Here on the south side of the saddle, we are protected from the cold wind.
Day 9 - Base camp: Descent to base camp. Very early in the morning, we descend. The most important tools are the ski poles. The descent is amazingly fast, in a few hours we are back in camp 1, around noon in base camp. With the overnight stay at 5,900 meters / 19,350 feet we are acclimatized for the summit.
Day 10: Recreation day: Food, sauna, lying in the sun, dozing in the sleeping bag. Expedition life as it should and may be.
Day 11: Recreation day: Packing the equipment for the summit push.
Day 12 - Khan Tengri ascent, C1: In the morning we will relax, at noon we will make our way to high camp 1.
Day 13 - Khan Tengri ascent, C3: Ascent to high camp 3. Also, this time we leave early from Camp 1, but thanks to acclimatization the ascent is faster than the first time. In camp two we have a thorough break, then we start the second, strenuous and hot part of the ascent towards the west saddle, where our snow cave or tents are waiting for us.
Day 14 - Khan Tengri Ascent: Like all summit days, this day starts very early. We leave the shelter of camp III and climb the fixed rope to the saddle in freezing temperatures. From there it goes along the increasingly steep and rocky west ridge, where the first rays of the sun hit us. A magnificent panorama opens up: mountain ranges to the horizon, huge glaciers, and the mighty 7439-meter Pik Pobeda peak. And of course the view into the massive 3,000 meters (10,000 feet!) high Khan-Tengri north face. We secure ourselves on the fixed ropes with jumars. After a few hours, we reach the tiny space for Camp IV (6400 meters), where we stop for a moment, drink tea, and fortify ourselves. We continue up the steep, stepped rock ridge until we cross to the right at about 6,600 meters (21,650 feet), overcome an approximately vertical passage of approximately 20 meters on fixed ropes, and reach a narrow snow ridge at about 6,800 meters (22,300 feet) through a steep couloir. All difficult passages are insured with fixed ropes. Over the last rocks and the survey triangle, we reach the immaculately flat summit dome of Khan Tengri. A great moment. After the strenuous ascent with a difference in altitude of 1,200 meters (3,900 feet), we have to concentrate fully on the long and demanding descent. We abseil off the fixed ropes and reach the west saddle again via Camp IV. A very long and tiring day.
Day 15 - Back to Base Camp: Descent to the base camp. Put your ski poles up and down.
Day 16 to 18 - Reserve day: In case of bad weather or longer acclimatization we use these days. In the Tien Shan, there are often bad weather phases with lots of fresh snow. That's why we have to include reserve days to sit out the bad weather (best of course in the base camp with good food, and the sauna),
Day 19 - Karkara: Helicopter flight to the base camp "Karkara" and transfer to Issyk-Kul. Summer, sun, swimming in the lake…. Ice cream, melons, shish kebab ... Hotel accommodation.
Day 20 - Bishkek: Free day at Issyk Kul, late afternoon drive to Bishkek. In the evening we end the expedition in a good restaurant (e.g. Dungan cuisine or a German brewery).
Day 21 - Finish: Transfer to the airport, departure and travel home.
"Professional and strong leadership on the mountain. Would use this company again:-) "
(John Jarrision - 08. November 2023 )
04. Aug - 24. Aug 2025
You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034
Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de
Service:
Costs to book a local guide:
Recommended tip - Summit Bonus: CHF 400 / USD 400
You are also welcome to inquire and, if necessary, share a mountain guide with other participants or our team (max. 2 guests per guide)
Following the Khan Tengri expedition, the ascent of Pik Pobeda from South Inilchek Base Camp can be attempted.
After the Khan Tengri ascent, we rest for a few days. The South Inilchek Base Camp with comfortable tents, good food, and even a sauna is inviting. With well completed 7000m acclimatization we can start directly with at Pik Pobeda with the goal to reach Camp 3 at 7000m. In case of good health and conditions, we will continue fo the Summit-Push.
We need at least 4 participants to carry out the expedition with our expedition leader. The ascent will be done in alpine style without prior camp setup. Tents will be taken and set up during the ascent. Partially fixed ropes can be used, but we will also climb as an alpine rope team if necessary and appropriate.
Participation: You must be an independent alpinist as a participant. Pik Pobeda is considered a very demanding 7000m peak, as there is no easy direct normal route to the summit. The summit ridge on the normal route is consistently above 7000m altitude.
Costs: EUR 2.250,- per person
Guides: For personal support or help in setting up the high camps, we recommend booking a personal local mountain guide. The earlier - the better: There are only a limited number of good Kyrgyz mountain guides.
Mountain guide for Pik Pobeda for 1, 2, 3 persons:
USD 3,000.- / USD 1,800.- / USD 1.500.- per person.
The cost of the guide can be shared with other participants. Please note in the note field the corresponding wish.
