Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
1 - easy / simple
"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.
2 - quite difficult
Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.
3 - difficult
Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
4 - very demanding
Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
5 - extreme
Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).
A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).
1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete.
(Russian: Пик Ленина, Pik Lenina) is perhaps the most famous 7,000-meter peak on Earth. Due to its technically easy character and fast access, it is also by far the most popular. Lenin Peak rises to 7,134 meters (23,406 ft) of height on the Kyrgyz-Tajik border overlooking the enchanting highlands of the Pamir. From the highest point, the view extends to Communism Peak in Tajikistan and to the Hindu Kush of Afganistan. It is an ideal mountain to start high-altitude mountaineering and for many Central Asian mountain fans, it is the first of the five peaks on the way to becoming a "snow leopard", an award going back to the Sowjet-times for climbing all five 7,000-meter peaks of the former Sowjet Union.
Pik Lenin is considered one of the less technical 7000 m peaks in the world to climb and it has by far the most ascents of any 7000 m or higher peak on Earth. The needed technical mountaineering skills to reach the top are quite low, the chances for a summit success are quite high. Pik Lenin is known for its beautiful surroundings and a comfortable base camp. It is located at a moderate 3700m in a green valley with rivers and lakes.
Around base camp, you can make nice hikes to slowly acclimatize at four-thousand like Pik Petrovski - a necessary process to get ready for the climb. Advanced Base Camp is located on the edge of the glacier and is also very comfortably equipped with large tents and a sauna. Except for the relatively long summit stage, the stages on the mountain are of moderate length, with 3-6 hours in the ascent and 2-3 hours in the descent (of course it goes faster or slower, second but not a good sign for the summit). However, no climb of a 7000m peak is really "easy". In this part of the Pamir, weather conditions can quickly change, the path is then difficult to find and the crevasses along the ascent should not be underestimated.
Pik Lenin costs and services
depend on the package you choose. We offer a basic package with all the necessary basic services to climb the mountain independently. Our full-service package starting from Europe (with Economy class tickets included but upgrades are possible if requested) offers full support during the climb, such as organisation of high camps, all equipment, guides and group leadership by our expedition leader. Additional upgrades, such as porter-services for your personal gear and personal guides are available too.
Services - Peak Lenin Expedition
Organization of the entire expedition
SummitClimb expedition leader:
- Small groups of up to 6 participants are led by one of our most experienced local English-speaking mountain guides,
- Groups of 7 to max 14 full-service participants will additionally be led by one of our international SummitClimb leaders
Economy flight from Europe to Bishkek-Osh* and back:
- several major airports available
- with 30 kg free luggage and 7-10 kg hand luggage
(you may organize your own flights too and we will meet you on arrival)
Transfers according to the plan, incl. flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek with 30kg personal luggage*
upto 2 additional nights in Osh (***Hotel), at base camp, or in Bishkek*
*depending on your origin of departure, available flight connections.
- For 2021: Arrival in Bishkek due to Covid-19.
Basic package (these services are included in Full Service package):
IVIR registration and environmental fee
Airport transfers in Osh
2 overnight stay in Osh, double room, full board
Transfers Osh - Pik Lenin base camp - Osh
Complete base camp equipment at Achik-Tasch (3,600m / 11'800 ft):
- stationary tent, food tent, shower tent, storage room, toilet tent, showers and sauna.
- Catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day in base camp
- Large double tent in base camp with mattress, on a wooden platform
- Emergency service in base camp (registration with rescue team, radio equipment)
- Medical service at base camp, local doctor present
All ABC (Advanced Base Camp) equipment (4,200m / 13,780 ft):
- stationary tent, food tent, shower tent, storage room, toilet tent
- Catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day at ABC (4,200m / 13,780 ft)
- Double tent in ABC with mattress, on a wooden platform
Electricity (220V, 50HZ) by a generator: all day in base camp, at night in ABC
Consultation service for local guides (service against surcharge)
High-camp services for Full-Service participants:
Leadership by experienced SummitClimb expedition leader on the mountain
Additional guides per every 3-4 team members including their insurance, equipment, costs
All high-camp equipment:
- tents for two camps
- stoves and pots, gas
- glacier ropes and fixing ropes
- firn anchors
High-camp food (to be prepared by yourself)
High-camp support for group gear (porterage of tents, but not of personal gear)
Satellite phone on the mountain
Professional weather forecast (ZAMG Innsbruck)
Extensive emergency medical kits for high camps
- Personal equipment and private expenses (such as telephone calls, alcoholic drinks, gifts, tips, etc.)
- Day and evening meals in Bishkek / Osh
- Insurances (emergency, evacuation, medical are required, travel cancelation is recommended).
(formerly also Peak Merchant, today also Peak Abuali Ibni) is with 7134 meters the fifth highest peak of the Pamir. It lies in the southwest of Kyrgyzstan. Our journey leads us to Osh, the second-largest city in the country. From there, a one-day drive takes us to the comfortable base camp among green meadows near the border of Tajikistan. We follow the classic north side ascent via the northwest ridge (normal route, 2 high caps) to the summit of Peak Lenin.
Planed itinerary of the Peak Lenin expedition
Each expedition is subject to flexible planning, adapted to the weather and local conditions.
An ideal plan for our Peak Lenin expedition is shown here:
Day 1: Departure / international flight to Bishkek or directly to Osh.
Day 2: Arrival in Osh (direct or domestic flight to Osh), drive to the Atschik-Tasch base camp (3700 m.a.s.l. / 12'150 ft)
Day 3: Acclimatization, hike to Petrovskogo Peak (approx. 4400 m / 14'400 ft). Descent to base camp. Preparation for the ascent to ABC (Advanced Base Camp)
Day 4: Ascent to ABC (4400 m / 14'400 ft)). Transport of luggage with horses is possible until here.
Day 5: Ascent to Peak Domaschnij (4700m / 15'400 ft) for further acclimatization. Descent to the ABC.
Day 6: Ascent to High Camp 1 (5300m / 17'400 ft)
Day 7: Another day for acclimatization in High Camp
Day 8: Ascent to High Camp 2 (6200m / 20'300 ft).
Day 9: Descent to ABC (or BC)
Day 10: Rest day in base camp.
Day 11: Rest day in base camp.
Day 12: Ascent to ABC (4400 m / 14'400 ft).
Day 13: Ascent to High Camp 1 (5300m / 17'400 ft)
Day 14: Ascent to High Camp 2 (6200m / 20'300 ft).
Day 15: Summit Day - Pik Lenin - 7134 m / 23405 ft - descent to High Camp 2 (6200 m / 20'300 ft).
Day 16: Descent to ABC (4400 m / 14'400 ft).
Day 17: Descent to base camp.
Day 18: Rest day (reserve day for delays, weather, etc.) at base camp.
Day 19: Drive to Osch, overnight stay in Osch.
Day 20: Reserve day for bad weather, day off around Osch.
Day 21: Departure, international flight back home
Day 22: Arrival home.
Most likely we will adjust the schedule according to your acclimatization process and weather conditions.
Basic members: Min. 2 joint participants, fully capable of climbing the mountain independently.
Personal Guide: At 7000m / 21'000 ft the guide can only work with max. 2 guests (if they know each other) or 1:1.
is considered one of the "easy" climbable 7000m (23'000 ft) mountains. But no climb above 7000 meters / 23'000 feet is really easy, the altitude alone is a big challenge. The first ascent was made in 1928 by a German-Soviet expedition. It was the highest climbed summit in the world at that time. Even though it became a frequently traveled route nowadays, you still need basic mountaineering skills and strong determination to reach the summit of Peak Lenin.
Participation Requirements - Lenin Peak
Participation as full-service member: The ascent is carried out in independent roped teams under the supervision of the expedition leader. With 1 guide for every 4 participants, we can support you during the ascent but not teach you any of the basics that you need to climb this kind of peak, nor guide you privately. All participants must be independent climbers, who have a good understanding of glacier mountaineering and camping outdoors in wintery conditions. Previous climbing experiences around or above 6000m / 19'000ft are helpful. Participants must also be able to work well together as a team.
Technical requirements: You should have experience in ascending and descending with crampons up to 40° steep slopes, roped glacier travel and knowledge of the basic techniques of crevasse rescue. The latter can be refreshed during the acclimatization phase. There are no difficulties in rock / mixed climbing. Climbing Lenin Peak is characterized by its glacier ascent, certainly with large crevasses, to 2nd high camp, and a long often wind-exposed but relatively flat summit ridge. The technical difficulties - according to the French alpine scale - are in the range of PD+/AD-.
Physical requirements: Above-average fitness is necessary for the ascent. Especially after a snowfall, the path can be very strenuous. Comfort levels at high camps are low, and already in BC and ABC you have to take care of your health and consider the impact of high altitude. The stages from ABC to 1st high camp and from 1st to 2nd high camp are of moderate distance, the summit day is long. Very good physical condition for up to 10 hours ascent, gaining 1200 meters / 4000 ft from an altitude of 6000 to 7000m, is required.
Danger note: This expedition is associated with subjective dangers (high-altitude sickness, climbing mistakes, etc.) and objective dangers (avalanches, crevasse fall, weather events, etc.). Even though we try to conduct the tour as safely as possible with all our experience, we cannot guarantee your safety. A high degree of personal responsibility and risk awareness is necessary. Your participation in our expedition is at your own risk and responsibility.
is a popular mountain. There are many providers and even more aspirants. With us, you can rely on our many years of experience and long friendly-familiar cooperation with our local partners and guides. In 2017 and 2018 our managing director Felix Berg was personally at Pik Lenin and in both years we stood on the highest point with the famous Lenin bronze bust. After a mediocre season with lots of bad weather (and only 3 summits) in 2019, we are looking forward to a good season in 2020.
Sign up now:
Your expedition participation can be basic (together with at least one more partner of yours) or full-service and we can modify your package to your preferences. We are happy to accept individual inquiries about Pik Lenin. Please check the requirements described. If you meet them, you can book online here.
Lenin Peak - Expedition
24. Jul - 14. Aug 2022
Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
Following the Peak Lenin ascent, you can attempt to climb Khan Tengri and/or Peak Pobeda. Well acclimatized from Pik Lenin this makes a lot of sense for experienced climbers. Ideally, you can reach 3 x 7000m in one season!
Tian Shan extension: As soon as we have completed the Pik Lenin ascent, we will set off for Tian Shan on the other side of Kyrgyzstan. Along the way, we rest a bit and see a lot of this exciting country. As soon as we have reached the base camp by helicopter, we will start climbing the peaks (summit push) directly. Within our group, we normally set as 1st priority the climb of Khan Tengri and as 2nd priority the climb of Peak Pobeda.
We need at least 4 participants to carry out the expedition with our expedition leader. The ascent will be done in alpine style without setting up camp beforehand. The tents will be taken along and set up during the ascent. Partly existing fixed ropes can be used, but we also climb as an alpine rope team, if necessary and appropriate.
Participation: As a participant, you have to be a physically strong and technically experienced climber. Both mountains - Khan Tengri and Peak Pobeda - are considered to be challenging 7000m peaks. Technical terrain up to rock UIAA-III and 60° steepness in ice/firn should be mastered safely. The altitude and the corresponding effort demand excellent fitness.
Services (additional 2 weeks, approx. 15 days):
Transfers from Lenin Peak to Tien Shan
Helicopter transfer to Iniltschek base camp
Full basecamp support (tents, shower, sauna, food)
Emergency service and doctor at base camp
High camp material (tents, stoves, gas)
Access to the fixed ropes at Khan Tengri
Support and organization by base camp managers
Support by expedition leader
Full-service participation: EUR 2,480.- per person
For personal support or help in setting up the high camps, we recommend booking a personal local mountain guide. The earlier - the better: There is only a limited number of good Kyrgyz mountain guides.
Mountain guide for Khan Tengri with 1 or 2, 3 persons:
EUR 1800 / EUR 1000 / EUR 800 - per person
Mountain guide for the Peak Pobeda with 1, 2, 3 persons:
EUR 2500 / EUR 1500 / EUR 1200 - per person
The costs of the mountain guide can be shared with other participants if necessary. Please note your request in the note field.
Lenin Ski Expedition
To the Pik Lenin with skis / addition to the ski luggage and further information about the ski ascent
The ascent of Peak Lenin on skis and the subsequent descent is considered a demanding undertaking, demanding in terms of skiing technique and physical condition.
Extensive ski touring experience
Safe downhill skiing up to 45° steep slopes / glaciers
This upgrade includes only additional luggage ski from BC to ABC and back (max 10kg).
Not included: Ski mountain guide/ ski guide
Price: EUR 250 / CHF 280
With this upgrade only the transport of the ski equipment is included. From/to ABC (advanced base camp) there are some nice easy runs on Peak Lenin that can be fun. For the ascent to the summit and the descent through the north face (almost 3000 vertical meters, big crevasse and avalanche danger) a separate arrangement for feasibility has to be made.
Lenin Ski Mountain Guide
We can find and hire capable ski mountain guides on Lenin only with timely registration (at least 4 months before the start of the expedition). Price on request.
Personal Guide - Peak Lenin
We will gladly organize your personal mountain guide on Pik Lenin. This is a good option if you don't fulfill the requirements of the climb, gives you additional safety and stronger support to successfully summit Pik Lenin.
- Independent speed on the mountain
- Personal support = more security.
- Very high chance of your Pik Lenin summit success.
- Free schedule of the expedition (3 weeks, from the beginning of July to the end of August) if desired.
Our SummitClimb guides at Pik Lenin are top class in mountaineering. They are ethnic Russian, also speak Russian as their mother tongue and are climbers from the tough Russian mountaineering culture, a forge for world-leading expedition climbers. Many of them work as mountain guides in Central Asia during the summer season and we maintain good contact with our staff in Kyrgyzstan, Kachastan, and Russia. As personal mountain guides we use very experienced staff with a solid knowledge of English (unless you are proficient in Russian = then please note).
- Support from/to base camp by your personal mountain guide.
- Organization of the mountain guide
- Mountain guides salary and insurance, expenses.
- Transport of personal equipment (up to 10kg to the high camps)
Personal Gear - the light ascent of Pik Lenin:
- With your 1:1 personal guide, you don't have to carry your own things to and from the high camp.
- A small rucksack with a water bottle and snacks is advisable and sufficient.
- Porters also work on Pik Lenin and can be booked on-site, costs to the 1st high camp at least 6 USD per kg and further to the 2nd high camp at least 12 USD per kg (same for descent).
Recommendation tip: USD 400 if you are satisfied
You are also welcome to ask for a mountain guide and share one with other participants or our team.
Single supplement: Lenin Peak
During this expedition we stay overnight in a hotel four times as planned:
3 overnight stays in a ***hotel in Bishkek in a double room/F
1 overnight stay in Osch DZ/VP
This upgrade includes the additional costs for these nights (additional nights can be charged on-site if the program changes).