Teilnehmer im Aufstieg zum 1.Lager (5100m)

Muztagh Ata - 7,500m Peak Expedition in China

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+49 (0)30 774 9034

Basic costs:
1.960,00 €
Full service:
5.950,00 €
Status:

Muztagata - 7,509 m (24,636 ft) - China

Selected dates:
to

Additional options:


Join our Summit experts to climb Muztagh Ata:
+ Individual participation, top teamwork
+ Ski or snowshoes ascent
+ Technically simple ascent to 7500m

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Ski Mountaineering (SkiMo)

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

Reiseerfahrungen aus unserem Blog

Muztagh Ata - 7,500m Peak Expedition in China

Selected dates:
to

Basic costs:
1.960,00 €
Full service:
5.950,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München (und andere Orte auf Anfrage)


Basic package: More experienced climbers can join our expedition with at least 2 joint registrations. Package starts in Kashgar. 
- Additional travel cost from/to Bishkek = € 750,- plus flight costs from Europe.
- Base-camp service (see details right/below with all material and 10 days of full board) can be booked in addition to the basic package. Costs: € 1500,- per person.
- Discounts for groups

Full service: Everything included with full support for your ascent, including flight from Europe and arrival via Kyrgyzstan.

Services - Muztagh Ata Expedition

Full Service package includes all of the below-listed items:

  • Organization of the entire expedition
  • SummitClimb expedition leader
Arrival via Kyrgyzstan:
  • Economy scheduled flights to Bischek (FRU) from Europe with Turkish Airlines or Aeroflot (expedition without flight or flight upgrades possible on request):
    - free baggage allowance of 23kg plus sport baggage (ski) and hand baggage
    - from various European airports

  • Airport transfers in Bishkek
  • 3 nights in a ****hotel (B&B) in Bishkek
  • Transfers from Bishkek to Kashgar and back
  • Accommodation and full board during the trip from Bishkek to Kashgar and back
  • Cultural program and hikes around Tash Rabat
  • 2 x overnight stays in yurts in Tasch Rabat, full board
Basic package from / to Kaschgar: 
  • Climbing permit
  • Liaison Officer und and fees of the Ministry of Tourism
  • Invitation for the Chinese visa
  • Transfers according to the plan from Kashgar to the base camp and back
  • Transfer Subashi - base camp - Subashi of your personal luggage up to 40kg 
  • 2 nights in a ***hotel (B&B) in Kashgar
  • Extensive emergency medical kits, pulse oximeter
  • Medical oxygen at base camp
  • Assistance in case of emergency throughout the entire expedition
Basecamp (BC) service on Muztagh Ata:
  • Comfortable single tent per participant
  • Dining tent (Yurt or Dome), kitchen tent and material tent
  • Catering by experienced Chinese kitchen team
  • Full board in BC
  • Satellite phone and Internet in BC
  • Solar power system (during the day)
  • Generator (evening)
High-camp service & Muztagh Ata ascent:
  • Management and organization by the expedition leader
  • High-camp tents with transport and assembly: 3 camps on Muztagh Ata
  • High-camp material: MSR stoves, pots and gas, catering
  • Fixed ropes, group ropes, fixing material and trail markers (wands)
  • 10 Watt UHF/VHF radios
  • High-altitude porters / mountain guides including their insurance, equipment, fees
  • Support by the expedition leader during the summit ascent
  • Professional weather report (ZAMG Institute) 

Not included: Personal equipment and private expenses (such as telephone calls, alcoholic drinks, gifts, tips, etc.), day and evening meals in Bishkek and Kaschgar, travel insurances (emergency, evacuation, medical are required, travel cancelation is recommended).

 

Planed itinerary of the Muztagh Ata expedition

Each expedition is subject to flexible planning, adapted to the weather and local conditions. An ideal plan for our Muztagh Ata expedition is shown here with arrival via Kyrgyzstan (Start on Day 1/2) or with direct flight to Kashgar, China (Day 4/5)

I.A. Muztagh Ata Expedition with start from Kyrgyzstan

  • Day 1: Departure from Europe.
  • Day 2: Arrival in Bishkek, reserve day (sorting out luggage, organisation).
  • Day 3: Drive from Bishkek to Tash Rabat at 3,100 m (10,170 ft).
  • Day 4: Acclimatization around Tash Rabat - hike up to 4,000 m (13,125 ft).
  • Day 5: Drive over the Torugart Pass to Kashgar (Kaxgar) at 1,280m (4,200 ft).

I.B. Muztagh Ata Expedition with start from Kashgar, China

  • ​​Day 5: Arrival at Kashgar (Kaxgar).
  • Day 6: Drive from Kashgar to Subashi at 3,600 m (11,810 ft).
  • Day 7: Loading camels, hike to the base camp at 4,400 m (14,425 ft).
  • Day 8: Rest day in the base camp at 4,400m (14,425 ft).

II. Preparation of the climb

  • Day 9: To camp 1 (5,300m to 5,400m) and back to base camp at 4,400m (14,425 ft)
  • Day 10: To camp 1 and overnight stay in camp 1 at 5,400 m (17,720 ft).
  • Day 11: Explore the route to Camp 2 at 6,100 m (20,000 ft) and back to base camp.
  • Day 12: Rest day in the base camp.
  • Day 13: To camp 1 and overnight stay.
  • Day 14: To camp 2 and overnight stay at 6,100m (20,000 ft).
  • Day 15: Explore to camp 3 around 6,700 m (22,000 ft) and back to base camp.
  • Day 16: Rest day in the base camp.

III. Muztagh Ata Climb

  • Day 17: To camp 1, overnight stay at 5,400 m (17,720 ft).
  • Day 18: To camp 2, overnight stay at 6,100m (20,000 ft).
  • Day 19: Ascent of the summit or to camp 3, overnight stay at 6,700 m (22,000 ft).
  • Day 20: Ascent of Muztagh Ata - 7,509 m (24,635 ft) - Summit!
  • Day 21: Descent to base camp and dismantling/packing.

IV. Finishing the expedition

  • Day 21-23: Reserve days.
  • Day 25: Drive to Kashgar, farewell party.
  • Day 26: Departure Kashgar, drive over Torugart Pass to Bishkek.
  • Day 27: Reserve day in Bishkek.
  • Day 28: Return flight and arrival at home.
Muztagata Camel - China (c) SummitClimb Julian BeermannMuztagata Summit: Team on top (photo: Mountain Guide Julian Beermann)
Pictures: (1) Relax time for this camel and Muztagh Ata in the background, Subashi (3600m), (2) Our Summit-Team 2014 on top of Muztagh Ata!

Time & tactics: First of all, the three required high camps (camp 1 at approx. 5400m, camp 2 at approx. 6100m and camp 3 at approx. 6800m) will be set-up. Afterwards, well acclimatized, we will have enough time to start a realistic summit push. The five reserve days are sufficient to allow every fit and fit participant to reach the summit under normal weather and snow conditions. If there are enough reserve days left for the whole group after the ascent, we can still spontaneously make cultural and scenic explorations on our way back to Kyrgyzstan.

Note: various dates for Muztagh Ata expedition

Ski or snowshoes? When is the best time to climb? What are the differences between the three expedition dates that we organise every year?

The earlierst date (June) is more suitable for the passionate skier due to larger amounts of snow still on the mountain. This date offers the most adventurous character, as the season is just beginning and there are no big tracks on the mountain yet.
+ The track can be skied as far as to the base camp, ideal for skiing.
+ Few people, the first expedition on the mountain
- rather more unstable weather and colder temperatures

The second date (mid/end of June to July) brings warmer temperatures and often more stable weather. All mountaineers benefit from this, whether on skis, snowboard or snowshoes. Skiers usually have to carry their skis further, but in the summit area conditions are definitely better (less harsh, softer snow). The glaciers warm up slowly, but are generally still very stable (the crevasses are closed). In short:
+ good weather with warmer temperatures
+ ideal for snowshoes and good for skiers

The third date (July to mid-August) brings the warmest temperatures, but the glaciers also soften, which leads to a greater risk of crevasses. The route is well prepared by teams in advance, critical points are secured with fixed ropes, and the route is certainly well prepared. 
+ warm temperatures, tracked ascent
- Greater risk of crevasses

Later in the year you have to expect icier conditions and open crevasses. From mid-August onwards, the weather also becomes more unstable. Therefore, we do not offer expeditions to Muztagh Ata at this time and recommend other expeditions instead, such as 7000m peaks in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan.

3 mountaineers on the snow slopes of Muztagata - SummitClimb (C) IVBV-guide Julian BeermannMuztagata, a beautiful day, team with leader Felix Berg
Pictures: (1) Ski ascent of our team, (2) Our 2015-Team and Muztagh Ata in the background.

 

Snowshoes or skis with skins are necessary for all participants who wish to climb Muztagh Ata. Snowshoes can be rented from us (on site).

To participate in our SummitClimb Muztagh Ata expedition, each participant needs their personal equipment recommended here.

Temperatures

up to - 30°C / with wind chill
-factor down to - 45°C

General conditions of
the ascent:

skitour, 7000m, very cold, very windy, dry

Travel documents/visa:

Visa for China must be obtained in advance from the embassy in your home country. For most nationalities the visa for travel through Kyrgyzstan can be issued on arrival.

Participation Requirements - Muztagh Ata Expedition

Prerequisite: The ascent is carried out in independent, self-reliant rope teams under the supervision of the expedition leader. If possible, the expedition leader accompanies the team to the summit, but no guiding activity takes place. Participants must be independent alpinists who have a good understanding of glacier mountaineering. An above-average level of fitness is necessary for the ascent. Knowledge of the symptoms and treatment of altitude sickness and frostbite should be known to avoid this danger. All participants must be able to work well together as a team. Experience in mountaineering/trekking around 6000m altitude should be brought along.

Technical requirements for the ski ascent of Muztagh Ata: Solid skiing skills and experience in alpine ski tours are required. Slopes up to max. 30° steepness. The basic techniques of crevasse rescue should be known. The latter can be refreshed during the acclimatization phase.

Technical requirements for the snowshoe ascent of Muztagh Ata: experience of walking in the terrain and experience of high-altitude tours are required. The basic techniques of crevasse rescue should be known. The latter can be refreshed during the acclimatization phase.

Physical requirements: Physical condition for an ascent of at least 800 meters and a duration of up to 10h with skis or snowshoes at an altitude of 7000m. Condition and stamina for the long descent.

Danger note: This expedition is associated with subjective dangers (high-altitude sickness, climbing mistakes, etc.) and objective dangers (avalanches, crevasse fall, weather events, etc.). Even though we try to conduct the tour as safely as possible with all our experience, we cannot guarantee your safety. A high degree of personal responsibility and risk awareness is necessary. Your participation in our expedition is at your own risk and responsibility.

Note: Ski or snowshoes?

Every year we organise our Muztagh Ata expedition on three different dates. The earlierst date (beginning of June) is more suitable for ski ascents due to larger amounts of snow from winter (= better downhill!). The second date (end of June to mid-July) generally brings more stable weather and higher temperatures and is usually still suitable for ski ascents. In the third date it is preferable to ascend with snowshoes.

"Overall we were happy with the trip and enjoyed it. We felt that we were in safe hands with Felix too, and really appreciated his leadership and flexible style. What worked well: - Felix, and his leadership and style. He is knowledgeable, flexible and fun to be with; cheerful, enthusiastic, and a real expert in his field. He also adapted the plan for us several times as the trip unfolded - Nicholas: he is organized, and goes the extra mile for his clients. We saw this in several things. He took us to dinner, organized a good hotel and responded fast to many requests and questions ... You could explain that we would likely climb from base camp to camp 1, 5-7 times, and camp 1 to camp 2, 2-3 times, to give us more of a feel for the extent of uphill and the approach to acclimatize for the summit."

(Bruce and Fraser USA/Canada - 06. August 2019 )

Infos

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

Basic package
1.960,00 €
Full service
5.950,00 €

book

Muztagh Ata - 7,500m Peak Expedition in China

06. Jun - 03. Jul 2021


Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
https://www.summitclimb.de

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

Dear climber, our home valley lies in Switzerland so all our information is originally in German. Yet, we are currently translating this page into English! Work is in progress, but please contact us if you are interested in this tour. We speak German, English, French, Polish, Spanish, Russian, Swahili, and even Mandarin. We will be happy to assist you.

Dear climber, our home valley lies in Switzerland so all our information is originally in German. Yet, we are currently translating this page into English! Work is in progress, but please contact us if you are interested in this tour. We speak German, English, French, Polish, Spanish, Russian, Swahili, and even Mandarin. We will be happy to assist you.

Request / Book
+49 (0)30 774 9034 info@summitclimb.de