Nanga Parbat über den Wolken

Nanga Parbat - the "naked" 8000m Peak

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+49 (0)30 774 9034
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expedition leader

Int. Summit Team Int. Summit Team Summit Team International - Summit Climb Mountain Guides

Basic costs:
13.500,00 €
Full service:
19.500,00 €
Status:

Nanga Parbat - 8,126 m (26,660 ft)

Selected dates:
to

Special explorer-expedition to Nanga Parbat's Rupa Face:
✪ The highest wall on earth
✪ Semi-Alpine Ascent
✪ Strong participants only

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

Categories

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Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

Nanga Parbat - the "naked" 8000m Peak

Nanga Parbat is an extraordinary mountain. Meaning "the naked beauty", it represents the quintessence of mountaineering. We will climb the challenging Rupal Face, the highest face in the world at over 4000 meters. You are invited as an experienced high-altitude mountaineer to apply for our international team.

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Nanga Parbat - Rupal Face

There are four routes through the face. In 1970 Reinhold and Günther Messer, as participants of the Herrlingkoffer, achieved the first ascent via the south-southeast pillar. The Schell route followed in 1976 and leads in the left part of the Rupal flank to the Mazeno ridge (SW ridge). In the 80's this climb became established for the Nanga Parbat ascent before the Diamir flank became more popular. In 1985 the international team Zygmunt Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka (Poland), Carlos Carsolio (Mexico), and Slavomir Lobodzinski (USA) succeeded in the first ascent of the Southeast Pillar. Between the two pillars ("Messner Route" and "Poland Route"), in 2005 the American duo Vince Anderson and Steve House succeeded in creating a new route, the "Central Pillar".

Nanga in Urdu "ننگا" means naked, bare, the naked one. Pahaar in Urdu "پہاڑ" means mountain. Nanga Parbat has received from these words (receptive from the Sanskrip "Parvata") the translation "naked mountain", although "bare mountain" would probably be more correct.

We would like to climb Nanga Parbat Rupal's face in a small team of 6 to 10 capable climbers. We use this site to present information and details - it is not a classic commercial offer.

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Nanga Parbat - the "naked" 8000m Peak

Selected dates:
to

Basic costs:
13.500,00 €
Full service:
19.500,00 €

Airport of departure:

Flug ab DE/AT/EU kann auf Wunsch gegen Aufpreis organisiert werden. Treffpunkt zum Start der Expedition: Islamabad.

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Costs & Services: We organize our Nanga Parbat expedition as a team with (desired / ideally) 6-8 participants. When participating at the basic price, we expect your contribution to the high camp equipment, possibly through your sponsors, and the cost of the international flight is not included. Full service participation includes a small contribution to invite 1-2 professional mountaineers.

Nanga Parbat - costs & Services

Base price includes:

  • SummitClimb expedition leadership
  • Organization of the expedition
  • Preparation meeting in the alps / Europe
  • 3 nights in a comfortable ***hotel in Islamabad in double room / breakfast
  • Permit to Nanga Parbat climb (full rate after increase 2023)
  • Fees of the Ministry of Tourism
  • Transfers according to the program incl. 40 kg personal luggage
  • Trekking to base camp incl. 40kg personal luggage
  • Trekking with double accommodation in tents
  • Accommodation and full board when traveling from Islamabad to base camp
  • All BC equipment:
    - Stay & food tent (Hilleberg Atlas).
    - Kitchen tent, material tent
    - toilet tent
    - Sleeping tent: single tent per participant
  • Catering by an experienced Pakistani kitchen crew 
  • Full board at base camp: three hot meals, snacks
  • Boiled and filtered water at base camp
  • Solar power system with battery, generatir at base camp
  • Satellite phone (use for a fee)
  • Extensive emergency first aid kit + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen
  • UHF/VHF radios (5 watts) per 2 participants
  • Deposit for a helicopter rescue (USD 30'000 / insurance obligatory for all participants)

Full service additionally includes:

  • Support from SummitClimb expedition leader during the ascent*
  • Support fee for additional professional mountaineers in the team*
  • All high-camp equipment
    - Special tents per 2-3 participants
    - High camp stove and gas
    - EliteClimb shovel per 2-3 participants
    - Special high camp food
  • Climbing material: rack (friends, wedges, etc.), hooks, ice screws, snow anchors
  • Climbing ropes approx. 8mm
  • Fixed ropes (5mm - 9mm, rappelling, etc.)

Professional climbers (mostly with sponsorship) can of course provide their own high camp and climbing material. The suitability of this will be discussed as part of the preparation.

*Support does not apply to camp transport: each participant must carry shares of the group equipment. Participating top mountaineers are responsible for leading critical parts and strengthen our overall team. 

Not included: 

  • International flight to/from Pakistan (can be arranged at an additional cost)
  • Visa for Pakistan (approx. USD 50, an invitation will be sent)
  • Personal equipment and expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
  • Lunch and dinner in Islamabad
  • Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
  • Gratitudes (approx. USD 200 is reasonable)

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Nanga Parbat: We plan to climb via the Rupal Face. For an 8000m expedition, the journey to the 3400m base camp is short. In contrast, the wall offers long and challenging climbing. The exact route depends on conditions and our team's preference.

Nanga Parbat - itinerary

All participants should arrive pre-acclimatized (altitude 4000m - 6000m acclimatization for at least 10 days in the 2-3 weeks prior to the start of the expedition).

Arrival, travel to Nanga Parbat, climb 6000m+

For the journey to Nanga Parbat (Rupal side) is a possible itinerary:

  • Day 1 - Islamabad: arrival and transfer to hotel. Day for organization and preparation. Welcome-team-dinner.
  • Day 2 - Chilas: We drive via KKH (Karakorum Highway) to Chilas.
  • Day 3 - Tarashing: We turn off at Thalichi to the east and circumnavigate Nanga Parbat to the east-facing village of Tarashing.
  • Day 4 - Trek to Rupal: trekking over or along the Chongra glacier to the village of Rupal in the valley of the same name, about 4-6h.
  • Day 5 - Trek to base camp: ascend to Biji or Tap alpine pasture (about 3400m), about 2-3h. Set up and organization of the base camp
  • Day 6 - base camp: organization and preparation.
  • Day 7 - test tour: ascent towards Mazeno pass.
  • Day 8 - test tour: ascent Toshe Peak (6300m)
  • Day 9 - test tour: ascent Toshe Peak (6300m)
  • Day 10 - Base camp: rest day

Exploration of the Rupal Face

The next step would be an exploration with material transport to the lower part of the wall.

  • Day 11 - Exploration: Ascent along Bazlin and Menge glaciers to the base of the wall, exploration of the south face.
  • Day 12 - Camp I: Evaluation of the south face, climb and sleep at an ABC/Camp I, depot
  • Day 13 - Camp II: transport of material, exploration of the route
  • Day 14 - Camp II - Further exploration of the route and descent.
  • Day 15 - Base Camp: descent to well-deserved rest.
  • Day 16 - Base Camp: rest day
  • Day 17 - Base Camp: rest day
  • Day 18 to 19 - extra: reserve days for preparation 

Nanga Parbat - summit push

We plan the wall ascent and summit walk semi-alpine with the previously created depots. In the upper part of the wall we will climb alpine in rope teams and do not plan to attach fixed ropes.

Day 1 - ascent to Camp I/II - ascent to the previous depot in the wall
Day 2 - Ascent to Camp III (bivouac) - We will probably need two more camps to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat.
Day 3 - Ascent Camp IV (bivouac) - Ascent to bivouac
Day 4 - Nanga Parbat Summit - Ideally we will reach the summit on the 4th day of the summit walk! - Descent to Camp III/IV
Day 5 - Back to Base - descent to the base camp
Day 6 - Back to Base - reserve day: in total, we plan with max. 6 days of food and 8 days of gas for the summit walk.

Reserve days and return

  • Day 27-30 - Nanga Parbat ascent: Another 4 reserve days for the summit walk.
  • Day 31 - Base Camp: Packing and departure.
  • Day 32 - Tarashing: Civilization (almost) - Drive to Chilas
  • Day 33 - Islamabad: Long drive to the capital of Pakistan
  • Day 34 - Islamabad: reserve day, Alpine Club of Pakistan, farewell party.
  • Day 35 - Flight: Departure from Islamabad.

Safety

Categories

Request / Book

Participation and Preparation: Nanga Parbat belongs to the more challenging 8000m-peaks to climb. And, the Rupal Wall is not the easiest way to the summit of Nanga Parbat. Accordingly, we are looking for strong alpinists / high-altitude mountaineers with extensive expedition experience.

Nanga Parbat - Info soon...

Requirements: You need to be a team player and an experienced high-altitude climber with an excellent climbing background. Ideally, you have already climbed 8000m+ and can handle the altitude well. Excellent alpine skills and experience from climbing 7000m+ altitude independently must be brought along.

Technical Requirements: Independent climbing of alpine tours, min. TD according to the French scale. Safe climbing up to at least 80° in ice and UIAA 5+ / M5 in alpine rock. Excellent belaying skills. Rope-free climbing up to 60° in ice and in combined terrain (M3 / UIAA 3 in rock) will be needed. You need to be experienced in the organization of bivouacs and high camp setups in winter conditions.

Physical requirements: You should have the fitness for 800 to 1200 meters* of ascent (at 7000m-8000m, at an alpine level this certainly means around 3000 Hm+) and endurance for several days of difficult mountaineering, with daily ascents of 12-18 hours. Your assistance in setting up camp** (backpack - about 16-20 kg*) requires physical robustness.

Danger notice: You participate in this expedition independently and at your own risk. The extreme altitude and the great cold inevitably bring dangers. Because of the high altitude, rescue possibilities are extremely limited.

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The Rupal Face is not one of the standard ascents of the Himalayas. Our expedition leader Oscar Cadiach succeeded in climbing Nanga Parbat via the Schell route in 1984. Our agent was himself twice on the Rupal Face. He organized each time for Tsuneo Hasegawa and Tomasz Humar their solo expedition.

Infos

Registration with PDF file

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

The Nanga Parbat ascent via the Rupal Face is extremely demanding (see requirements). If you have not been explicitly invited, please send us your request with a tour report and a few sentences about your motivation. Join us on this unique adventure!

Basic package
13.500,00 €
Full service
19.500,00 €

book

Nanga Parbat - the "naked" 8000m Peak

01. Sep - 05. Oct 2025

Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
https://www.summitclimb.de

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

Request / Book
+49 (0)30 774 9034 info@summitclimb.de