Mount Kenya Climb - the true summit
We are your experts for mountains in Africa. Come along and climb Mount Kenya with us:
✪ Alpine tour at 5000m+
✪ Enjoyable gneiss, beautiful rock
✪ Ascent of the "real" Mount Kenya
Overview
Mount Kenya: With the twin peaks of Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5189m), Mount Kenya is the second highest mountain in Africa. Easy and scenic trekking leads to the foot of Mount Kenya. Most "ascents" for trekkers end at Point Lenana (4985m). But we climb the highest two peaks. An adventurous route and untouched nature off the beaten track awaits you. Our 9-day trip gives you a good chance to climb the main peak Batian (5199m) in a reasonable time: the ascent of the "real" Mount Kenya. Since 2002 we have climbed Mount Kenya several times a year and offer you deep expertise together with a highly-experienced team.
Mount Kenya Climb
For this climbing trip, we plan to climb Mount Kenya via one of the normal routes. In summer (June till September), the North Face Normal Route leads directly to the summit of Batian. In winter (December till March), the ascent via the standard route first leads to Nelion, followed by a traverse to Batian. Both routes have sections up to UIAA 4th degree of difficulty and an alpine character, many beautiful and exposed passages.
Mount Kenya Ascent – Your, Our "Expedition"
Mount Kenya is Africa’s second-highest mountain after Kilimanjaro. Its highest peaks, Nelion (5,189 m) and Batian (5,199 m), are reserved for climbers. The up to 700-meter-high walls of pristine gneiss create a rock climbing paradise with a strong sense of adventure. Routes starting at grade 5.6 (YDS) / UIAA IV lead to the summit of Mount Kenya. Further details about the normal routes can be found in the itinerary, with additional route information under "Details." We are happy to provide a customized offer for a special Mount Kenya expedition. This climbing trip focuses on reaching the main summit.
In just a 9-day trip, this program gives you a solid chance to climb Mount Kenya. The routes are rarely climbed (about 50 ascents per year), but this is not a traditional expedition. The journey from Nairobi is adventurous but relatively short. The route is predictable, and we complete several ascents each year. Unlike a standard commercial expedition, the ascent is done in an alpine style without fixed ropes.
Why with SummitClimb?
Tourverlauf Mount Kenia Besteigung (9 Days)
Day 1: Arrival by flight and transfer to hotel in Nairobi, bed & breakfast.
Day 2: Full day to relax, sightseeing in Nairobi (National Park, Bomas), last shopping (snacks, etc.) and climbing training in Lukenya, approx. 1 hour drive outside of Nairobi. In the evening dinner together with tour briefing and meeting of all group participants.
Today we plan to climb Batian (5199m). We get up early in the morning to be at the start of the route by the first sunlight.
- Winter: The ascent along the Nelion Normal Route begins easily, so we gain altitude quickly. Past MacKinder's Gendarme the most difficult rope length is waiting for us (rock UIAA 4), then we follow block terrain with two spots of (rock UIAA 3rd degree) of difficulty to the summit of Nelion (5189m). Before we traverse to Batian, we have to abseil into the Gate of the Mists and then climb up a short ridge (UIAA3) to Batian (5199m). For the descent from Nelion we abseil over the Austrian rescue line.
- Summer: The very first rope length offers a key passage (UIAA 4) and is the first challenge with numb fingers. After that easier terrain leads through a couloir to the amphitheater (until then there we have significant risk of falling rocks), over Firmin's Tower (short pitch UIAA 4) to the west ridge. The ridge runs long past Shipton's Notch to the main summit of Batian (5199m). The descent is along the ascent route by abseiling and climbing down.
We plan to descend together with the trekking group:
- winter via the Naro Moru
- summer via the Naro Moru route
Return flight: Transfer to Nairobi International Airport (NBO) for your return flight ideally later in the day/evening (to have some reserve time).
Enjoy Kenya: Alternatively, you can drive or fly to a safari or the beach. We’re happy to extend your program. A group safari to Amboseli National Park is always offered afterward, but there are many other options, either as a group or individually.
Prepare
Mount Kenya Climb
Temperatures
- At night and early morning, around -5°C
- During the day, around 0°C, warmer in the sun
-With a wind-chill factor, it can feel as cold as -10°C.
Gear
Participation requirements
-
Technical Skills
Experience in belaying techniques, independent rappelling, and climbing skills up to 5.6 (YDS) on second (in alpine terrain) are required. On the summit day, you can expect:
- Nelion, South (Winter dates): ~350 meters elevation gain and ~700 meters of climbing, two 5.6 sections, 5.4–5.5 passages, and extensive scrambling (South side, Nelion: Winter dates).
- Traverse to Batian: ~50 meters of ascent and descent, ice/snow up to 45°, and one 5.3 section.
- Batian, North (Summer dates): ~450 meters elevation gain and ~900 meters of climbing, three 5.6 sections, 5.4–5.5 passages, and extensive scrambling.
Note: These details are for the standard routes. We are happy to advise on more challenging options.
-
Endurance
-
Kenya Red Tape
How to climb Mount Kenya
SouthEast-route to Nelion (5189m) and traverse to Batian (5199m)
Northface Standard to Batian (5199m)
The choice of route primarily depends on the fact that from late December to March, the south side of Mount Kenya is drier, while from June to September, the north side is better suited for climbing. Thus, in winter, one ascends via the southeast side over Nelion to Batian. In summer, directly via the north side to Batian.
North (Summer) or South (Winter): Fundamentally, the winter ascent has the advantage that one quickly reaches the first summit at Nelion—a summit experience!—and there is a bolted rappelling route. Generally, the winter route is also somewhat less prone to rockfall than the north-side ascent. On the summer route, however, one goes directly to Batian.
The Chogoria Route (trekking to Mount Kenya) along the impressive Nithi Gorge is recommended for all visitors who are at Mount Kenya for the first time. The climbing trip takes place simultaneously with the Mount Kenya trekking, so we share the common infrastructure and save costs accordingly. The Naro Moru Route is the shortest route to the base of the main peaks. The north-side Sirimon Route is a bit longer. These two routes are then suitable for the descent.
Further route suggestions for more ambitious mountaineers are:
Batian, West Ridge (Winter or Summer): Very elegant, long alpine ridge. Info: 1,640 feet elevation gain, 5,905 feet climbing distance, one section 5.9 (UIAA V+), passages 5.2-5.6 (UIAA II-IV), lots of block terrain, 12-14 hours (possible bivouac).
Batian, South-West Ridge (Winter): Long alpine tour. Info: 1,640 feet elevation gain, 3,937 feet climbing distance, passages 5.4-5.6 (UIAA III-IV), lots of block terrain, 8-12 hours. Descent via Gate of the Mists to Nelion (possible bivouac in the Howell Hut), then mostly rappelling (descent along the normal route).
Batian, Diamond Pillar (Winter): Direct and elegant line to the summit of Batian. Standard route: Ascent along the right wall side through a steep crack system. Info: 1,640 feet elevation gain, 2,296 feet climbing distance, sections 5.11d (UIAA VII), longer passages 5.10b/c (UIAA VI). Descent from Batian via Nelion along the normal route. There are also other lines through the Diamond Buttress. The route Equator (free up to 5.12b/c (UIAA VIII-/VIII)) follows the central part of the pillar past a smooth slab inclusion (The Shield), mostly crack climbing. In the left pillar part, there are two artificial routes.
Nelion, Northeast Pillar (Summer): Great classic line left of the large couloir to Batian. Info: approx. 1,968 feet climbing distance, 1,640 feet elevation gain. Over slabs to a crack and chimney system (some pitches 5.10a/b (VI+)).
Nelion, East Pillar (Summer): Great lines to the summit of Nelion, perfect cracks, and exposed climbing. Info: Routes like East Gate (5.9 (UIAA V+), 1,640 feet), Eastern Groove (5.10a/b (UIAA VI+), 1,804 feet) and East Face (5.11d (UIAA VII), 1,640 feet).
Nelion, East Face (Summer or Winter): Modern, partly brittle, and bolt-scarred lines. Info: 1,640 feet, 2-3 routes (one German from 2007, but there are also two older lines), difficulties from 5.11d (UIAA VII).
Point John, Southeast Edge (Winter, possibly Summer): Beautiful rock climbing - wonderful gneiss. Info: Entry from the side of Lewis Tarn, 820 feet, passages up to 5.5 (III+), approx. 4-6 hours. Descent by rappelling.
Point John, Southwest Face (Winter): Currently the most difficult free climbing tours on Mt. Kenya. Info: Routes from 5.12c (UIAA VIII+) / partly artificial climbing, cracks, and overhangs.
Migiot Peak (Winter): Good introductory routes (492-656 feet) from 5.8 (UIAA V )to 5.11d (UIAA VII+).
A private tour within this trip or afterwards is possible for an additional fee. Individual tours can be conducted on other dates or special routes can be arranged: offer upon request. We are happy to accommodate your ideas.
They are the best in Kenya. With their experience on the normal routes, some with over 100 ascents, they know these routes well. Of course, the mountain guides on Mount Kenya do not have the training and routine like on European or American UIAGM/IVBV-level. The mountain might offer 15-20 guiding days per year, while we can easily work 150 days. Also, climbing there is a profession, starting as a porter, whereas most of our international mountain guides come from sports (with a much higher climbing level).
Testimonials
Felix Berg lived and studied in Kenya from 2002 to 2003. Since then he has climbed and travelled to Mount Kenya on over 20 tours guiding groups and privately: solo ascent of the SW-ridge, ascent of the Diamond-Buttress, several first ascents (10 new routes, status 2017) and the speed solo ascent of Nelion in 56min / Batian in 1h17min followed. Since 2004 Felix Berg has been training the Mountain Rescue Team of the KWS (Kenyan Wildlife Service). During this time he got to know all the well-known local guides and was involved in their training and further education.
Costs & Services
Mount Kenya Climb Full Service includes all listed services with a flight from Europe and climbing guided by local mountain guides (if necessary, under the direction of the expedition leader). On this Kenya trip, a number of upgrades are available, a trip extension to safari or Kilimanjaro, or a guided tour by IVBV mountain guides or our Mt. Kenya expert Felix Berg. You can also send us your request and we will advise you on climbing Mount Kenya, or directly book online.
Full Service
Included:
- Organization of the trip from Europe, including flight
- Expedition leader:
- smaller groups with 2-7 participants led by one of our experienced Kenyan guides
- larger groups with 8-12 participants led by SummitClimb expedition leader, accompanied by Kenyan guides
- max 12 participants in the group - Airport transfers in Nairobi
- 2 nights in ***hotel in Nairobi with breakfast
- Transfer from Nairobi to the mountain and back
- 4x4 drive to the National Park gate / end of the road, depending on conditions
- All camp equipment: dining tent, kitchen tent and kitchen material
- Catering by our experienced kitchen team, full board on the mountain
- Porters for our group material and food
- Team on the mountain incl. guide
- Personal porter up to 18 kg during the trekking
- Emergency assistance
- Full first-aid kit
- Local mountain guide for the ascent of Batian (2 guests per guide)
- Group material for climbing: ropes & rack
- Satellite telephone/radio
- Overnight stay in a sleeping tent (2 persons)
- Overnight fee for Austrian Hut / Shipton's Hut
- National Park fees (US$ 360 per person / 5-day package)
- National Park (US$20 per person, each night)
Not included:
- Personal equipment
- International flight
- Private expenses (such as telephone calls, alcoholic beverages, snacks, gifts etc.)
- Travel insurance (health, accident, travel cancellation)
- Visa fees for Kenya
- Tips / gratitudes (recommended: US$ 250)
Book now
Travel experiences from our blog
-
07.09.2023Expeditionen und Bergreisen nach der Pandemie
2022-2023 war eine Zeit der Transition aus der Pandemie hinaus zu extremer Inflation, gerade im Bereich der Reisen, zurück in den normaleren Trekking- und Expeditionsalltag. Viele Bergtouren, Expeditionen und Gipfelgänge später finden wir endli
-
05.02.2022Mera Peak – Summit, Nepal Saison
Gratulation an unser Lokalteam Nawang, Pemba und Dilif und Teilnehmer Linus für die geglückte Besteigung des Mera Peak, 6500m, Nepal. Einer der schönsten Ausblicksberge
