Overview
In northern Pakistan, where the Karakoram meets the Pamir mountains, the area of Shimshal has long been a blanc spot on many maps. The Shimshal valley stretches 75 km from the entry near Passu, Hunza area towards the east. In the south huge glaciers lead to a natural border with the Northern faces of mighty 7000m-peaks alike Trivor Sar (7577m), Distaghil Sar (7885m), Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Kanjut Sar (7.760m). The north-eastern area contains a vast number of 6000m-peaks, many of them unclimbed, some even unnamed.
Used by Shimshali people since 400 years for traditional herding of goats, sheep, and yaks, much of these northern mountain ranges are accessible by adventurous paths. They allow us a relatively quick access to our unique base camp, each trip with focus on a different mountain range for explorational climbs: new routes, new peaks, first ascents.
Expedition leaders
Shimshal exploration
We will search for some unclimbed lines, possibly unclimbed mountains. And, with the unknown comes some uncertainty of the itinerary, which we will adjust depending on the area of our search and the focus of our team. Due to the terrain and accessibility. we have a good chance of learning something truly new, and that in just 3 weeks of a trip.
Expedition Plan Shimshal (23 Days)
- Day 1: Travel to Pakistan
- Day 2: Latest arrival in Islamabad, airport transfer to hotel, rock climbing in Margalla hills.
- Day 3: Travel via Gilgit to Hunza, drive approx. 15h, or flight to Gilgit and 2h drive.
- Day 4: Hunza - acclimatization trek to Horn pass, with beautiful views of the Karakoram, Rakaposhi, Daran Peak, Golden Peak (Spantik).
- Day 5: Drive from Hunza zu Shimshal, approx. 5h.
We have 2 weeks that will consist of trekking to a remote base camp (3-4 days), climbing as many alpine routes and peaks as possible (8-10 days), and trekking back to Shimshal (2-3 days). With peaks around an altitude of 6000 meters, we do not need too much time for acclimatization and can start climbing as soon as we arrive at base camp (of course, weather and conditions permitting).
We will finalize the goals with the team depending on skills and abilities. We can still alternate the area while in Hunza/Shimshal depending on the information available then, as conditions and weather. Here are the planned objectives of our future explorations:
- Shuijerab region: Shuijerab Base Camp is a 4-day trek from Shimshal. Located at the start of two glaciers the base camp is surrounded by unnamed and unclimbed peaks of 6000m in height. Beyond that, explorations to Yak Sar (6152m), Umeed Sar (6134m), Guustan Peak (6224m) are possible.
- Ganj-e-Dur region: Base Camp is a 4-day trek from Shimshal. Yard Sar W (6090m) and M (6150m) were climbed in 2017, while Yard Sar E (6180m) remains unclimbed. Many unnamed peaks above 6000m unclimbed.
- Koh-e-Dhaid region: Base Camp is a 3-day trek from Shimshal. Koh-e-Dhaid (6105m, also known as Charskin III) we first summited in 2020. There is Charskin I renamed Samina Peak, and Charskin II remains unclimbed. In this mountain range we find lots of potential for interesting new routes and other subsidiary peaks.
Many of the peaks in the region have no ascents and are unnamed, some have been climbed a few times but still have potential for new routes at moderate difficulty. We can climb to the summit in a 1-day push from base camp or with lightweight high camp equipment or bivouacs for several days. This is an exploration, hence we can not give you details on the number of peaks planned, and of course, any alpine climb is highly dependent on weather and route conditions as well as your level of climbing. In one day we might traverse 3 peaks of 6000m height, or in 3 days fail to climb one at all - no success is guaranteed but we aim at climbing as much as possible!
- Day 20: Shimshal - Hunza, Karimabad
- Day 21: Hunza area, reserve day
- Day 22: Drive to Gilgit, Flight to Islamabad
- Day 23: Islamabad departure, travel home
Prepare
Climbers will find many possible goals in Shimshal, tailored to their level. We organize the tour without a classical mountain guide, but with guidance from an expedition professional and in collaboration with local support, for an exciting exploration
Participation requirements
The level of alpine tours (summer) or ski tours (winter / spring) and mountain ascents possible for you will be determined by your abilities. Ideally, you will join together as a rope team or we plan to hire a local or international guide for you.
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Summer: mountaineering, rock climbing
The routes can vary in difficulty from AD- to TD+ (according to the French Alpine scale). The abilities of the participants and the group as a whole determine the choice of route and summits. Independent alpine climbing/mountaineering is a prerequisite for participation.
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Winter / Spring: ski & mixed
The routes require an approach with skis. Skitouring experience up to difficulty scale WS/PD (UIAA / French Alpine Scale) and basic alpine experience in crampon climbing up to 45° / rock UIAA 2nd degree are sufficient for your participation. Tour destinations can exceed this level and tours in the mixed area or ice climbing can also be chosen.
Testimonials
Shimshal, Karakoram: In 2020, we made the best of the pandemic crisis to travel twice into the Karakoram range. While many other areas were closed, Felix Berg was able to explore some mountains and valleys of the Shimshal region with a small team. They did the first ascent of the 6000m-peak Chashkin I and a 5800m mountain (christened AM Peak). In the Momhil valley, they have made a 6000m-peak ascent. As a result, this program was designed for us to be on exploration in the Shimshal more often from now on.
Costs & Services
Due to the nature of exploration, our experienced leader takes charge of the overall planning and leads the team. We plan in all the costs of travel to Shimshal from/to Islamabad, trekking to base camp, comfortable setup, enough support for our climbing gear, some special lightweight high camp, and alpine climbing equipment.
Shimshal Expedition - Service
- Leadership and Organization (min. 4 max. 6 members per leader)
- All group transfers by the program from/to Islamabad (ISB)
- 2x accommodation in Islamabad, full-board
- 4x accommodation in Hunza, full-board
- 2x accommodation in Shimshal village, full-board
- trekking to base camp and back
- carriage of personal gear to/from base camp: 25 kg / 20kg
- basecamp setup:
- group tent/dining tent
- kitchen stand, full board
- sleeping tent (shared) - High camp equipment:
- Light-weight single wall tents
- Stoves, Gas - Climbing gear:
- Single / double ropes
- Alpine rack per team of 3 members
- pitons, slings, accessory
- Insurances (we can book these if necessary)
- Personal equipment
- Costs of personal nature (drinks, etc.)
- Tips for guides, porters, and staff
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