Ama Dablam Climb - Expedition Nepal
Climb Ama Dablam, one of the most iconic mountains in the world:
✪ The emblem of the Khumbu, Nepal
✪ Experienced expedition leaders, loyal and strong Sherpas
✪ Great base Camp setup, a stunning route to the summit
Overview
Ama Dablam, the beautiful mountain located in the heart of the Sherpa Empire near Mount Everest, and is described by many as the most famous rock and ice climbing mountain in Asia. The first ascent was by the famous Ed Hillary Silver Hut Expedition in 1961, when Bishop (USA), Gill (NZ), Romanes (NZ), and Ward (UK) reached the summit over the southwest ridge on 13th of March. Ama Dablam, also called the Matterhorn of Nepal, has become one of the most popular mountains. What awaits you at Ama Dablam: A highly alpine Via-Ferrata or a big Himalayan expedition?
We are your expedition provider with experienced teams and excellent logistics. Join our climb of Ama Dablam with renowned and experienced leaders.
Itinerary Ama Dablam Climb - Expedition Nepal
Our Ama Dablam expedition begins with a flight to Kathmandu, meeting there, an inland flight to Lukla and a beautiful five-day trek through the Khumbu Valley, the world-famous Valley of the Sherpas near Mount Everest. The base camp is picturesquely situated at the foot of the mountain on green meadows, a perfect spot for preparing the ascent and relaxing. To the top of Ama Dablam, we choose the classic southwest-ridge as our ascent route
About Ama Dablam
The mountain is located in the Mahalangur Himal range in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas, Nepal. Its elevation varies between 6,812 and 6,856 meters above sea level. The climb is considered challenging and requires the official permit from the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism. The mountain has a beautiful shape, making it the landmark of the Khumbu Valley, and it is often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas."
We fly to Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, where our international SummitClimb expedition team will meet. Final preparations, equipment purchases, and official paperwork will be handled while we enjoy the atmosphere of Kathmandu. The domestic flight to Lukla (2,700m) is highly weather-dependent. The trek to base camp takes us through the world-famous Khumbu Valley of the Sherpas, leading into the Mount Everest region. From there, we continue past Namche Bazaar (3,600m) in an eastern direction to the base camp (approximately 4,600m) of Ama Dablam. The route passes through the Sherpas' homeland, offering breathtaking views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.
Ama Dablam - the route
Tactics for the ascent
The ascent typically takes 2-3 days, with overnight stays in Camp 1 or optionally Camp 2 or Camp 3. From Camp 1, an exposed rock ridge (sections up to UIAA 3, with fixed ropes) leads to the Yellow Tower (15m, UIAA 4), where Camp 2 is located (space for about 5-6 tents). We continue along the ridge and then climb 40-50° steep mixed terrain to just below the Grey Tower, which is usually bypassed on the left via a steep firn (snow) slope to reach the Mushroom Ridge (named for its mushroom-shaped cornices). Depending on conditions, the use of the original Camp 3 is no longer advisable due to the risk of icefall, so we will search for safer tent sites at or near the end of the ridge, where we may establish Camp 3 (6,100m). A 40° steep firn slope leads to the right side of the serac known as the Dablam. One or two rope lengths, up to 65° steep, take us past the Dablam and then up a 40° steep snow slope, following a prominent rib, to the summit.
Trip Itinerary Ama Dablam (30 Days)
Kindly be ready to departure to Nepal.
Airport pickup, transfer to hotel in Kathmandu, Nepal, 1,300 meters (4,265 feet)
Equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu
Drive to Ramechhap, fly to Lukla, 2,900 meters (9,514 feet). Easy short walk to Phakding, 2,550 metres (8,366 feet). Beautiful day of light trekking. Sleep in teahouse.
Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,440 meters (11,286 feet). Lovely forest trek over suspension bridges. This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Sleep in teahouse.
Rest & Acclimatization in Namche, the capital of the Sherpa's kingdom. Teahouse.
Walk to Pangboche 3,860 meters (12,644 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Teahouse.
Walk to Base Camp 4,570 meters (14,989 feet). Beautiful Ama Dablam base camp is on grassy meadows. Camp.
Rest & Acclimatization around the base camp, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
Equipment check and fixed rope training day on small cliffs near base camp.
Walk to advanced basecamp, 5,350 meters (17,552 feet). Easy walking on paths. Sleep there.
Hike to camp 1, 5,700 meters (18,701 feet). A bit of rock-hopping in a boulder field, followed by short easy low angle scramble to C1. Return to base camp.
Rest and acclimatization in base camp.
Walk to camp 1. Sleep there.
Climb to camp 2, 5,900 metres (19,357 feet). Easy climbing to C2 is on good solid granite, using fixed ropes. Return to base camp.
Rest in base camp.
Rest in base camp.
Walk to Camp 1, by now a well-known pass.
Climb to Camp 2, sleep there.
Wake up in the night, eat "breakfast" and attempt the summit: 6,812 metres (22,349 feet). Summit attempt involves snow climbing over partly quite exposed ridges with a bit of mixed rock just above C2. Return and sleep in C2.
Downclimb to C1 and walk down to basecamp.
Extra day for the summit attempt.
Extra day for the summit attempt.
Pack up and descend to Pangboche village. Sleep in a teahouse.
Walk down to Namche Bazaar. Teahouse.
Walk down from Namche to Lukla. Teahouse.
Fly from Lukla to Ramechhap, drive to Kathmandu. Back to our hotel.
Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends.
Earliest departure today: Fly home.
Arrive safe and sound at home: the most important goal of your expedition.
Prepare
Steep and exposed, the normal route to the summit of nearly 7,000-meter-high Ama Dablam - the "Matterhorn of Nepal" - awaits us: This is an excellent expedition for experienced mountaineers and climbers.
Upon registration, you will receive your first briefing with detailed information and tips about the Ama Dablam expedition. Additionally, we regularly organize preparation events in the Alps and the Pyrenees, where our experts will help you prepare both theoretically and practically for the expedition. We are happy to advise you on participation and training. Our office is at your disposal, also serving as a back-office for all logistical aspects of the expedition, from flights to all the necessary permits and formalities. Just before the expedition, a second briefing will provide further details on the schedule (final team, meeting points, contacts, hotels, etc.). The earlier you decide to join, the more we can assist you along the way.
About Ama Dablam
✪ Rock & Ice
✪ Exposed climbing on fixed ropes
✪ High 6000-meter peak, cold, very windy
✪ Popular, stunningly beautiful
Tempratures
- Base camp at night down to -10°C / -15°C
- Summit walk tomorrow down to -20°C / -25°C
- with wind chill factor up to -35°C / -45°C
The SW-ridge route on Ama Dablam is very exposed, hence we should expect corresponding winds. The dates later in the year can be very wintry. With a bit of luck, there are relatively warm and windless days until mid-November. However, you should not rely on these and be equipped accordingly.
Personal Gear
In Kathmandu, there is gear available for rent, and we also have our own high-quality equipment there. Pre-registration is recommended.
Downloads
Important information about this expedition
Participation requirements
Requirements: Participants of the expedition should be independent alpinists with a good knowledge of the common belay techniques. Experience in camping in winter conditions and knowledge of symptoms of altitude sickness to avoid them should be brought along. Experience in technical climbing and in high mountains is necessary for participation. A previous 6,000m+ / 19,500ft+ experience would be advantageous.
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Technical requirements
You should be able to climb safely up to the 3rd degree of difficulty (roch 3a/b, AD-routes) in mountain boots and be able to climb ice flanks steep up to 50°. You should know how to use an ascender (jumar). Experience with abseiling-device (figure eight recommended) and independent abseiling over longer distances is required.
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Endurance
You should be fit enough for 1,000 meters / 3,200 feet of technical ascent, approx. 6-10 hours and subsequent descent (abseiling) is necessary. The necessary concentration during the descent must be very high due to the technical difficulties (constant danger of falling). A corresponding physical reserve is essential.
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Nepal Travel - Red Tape
Visa on Arrival (Nepal): Under the prevailing law, almost all* foreign nationals will be able to obtain an on-arrival visa from Immigration Offices at the entry points. Your passport should be valid for min. 6 months at the time of entry.
*exemptions: citizens of Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Swaziland, Cameroon, Somalia, Liberia, Ethiopia, Iraq, Palestine, Afghanistan, Syria, and passengers traveling with travel documents must bring visas from the Nepali embassy or missions abroad.
Questions about the Ama Dablam?
Our ascent follows the route of the first ascent. A planned itinerary can be found under the itinerary, and the expected difficulties are listed under preparation, with specific requirements. Every year, several hundred climbers ascend Ama Dablam via the Southwest Ridge - one should not expect a solitary mountain experience. The route is fully secured with fixed ropes, making the climb more like a via ferrata than a traditional alpine route. However, caution is required: we move in highly alpine terrain, fixed ropes are not steel, and careful handling is taught by us at the base camp.
The best time to climb is during the post-monsoon season, from early October to the end of November. During this period, the weather is more stable, and the snow conditions are better. In the pre-monsoon season, the weather is more unpredictable, and while the slopes of Ama Dablam are icier, the higher peaks, such as Mount Everest, are preferred due to the warmer temperatures. However, the post-monsoon season is colder and often windy. At nearly 7,000 meters, it is crucial to ensure you have adequately warm equipment.
Ama Dablam is a heavily frequented mountain. In the base camp, we choose a nice, well-located spot and set up comfortably. As one of the established teams on the mountain, we have influence over the placement of the fixed ropes (which is coordinated with all major providers) and enough Sherpa power to set up efficient camp logistics. For the second camp and the summit push, we have a special trick up our sleeve before heading to the top. During the main season (October-November), there are usually several hundred climbers on the mountain, but the traffic is generally well spread out. However, there may occasionally be situations where you need to wait.
Testimonials
Ama Dablam Experience: Since 1998 we have carried out many safe and successful expeditions to Ama Dablam. With an above-average success rate (over 70% success rate at 180+ summits, 0 serious accidents) our experience is reflected and our concept of using only expedition leaders, who know the mountain and the ascent route. An experienced team of Sherpas, who go to the summit with us, are an important part of our success.
Costs & Services
Ama Dablam costs: We can organize your climb with the simple basic package, with add-ons as the trek to basecamp and basecamp-service, as full-service-climb, which most members prefer, or beyond. Private guides, extra support-team, individually adapted itineraries: Just contact us with your requests. Later arrival and extension until 30 November are possible. We offer individuals and groups the option of organizing the expedition in their time frame and to their required services. Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 3 years and altitude experience) or send your tour report in a separate email. If you have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements, then register online now! You are also welcome to send an inquiry and get further advice about our Ama Dablam expedition.
Basic Service
Our basic climb (min. 2 members) on Ama Dablam includes:
- Organization of the expedition
- Expedition leadership
- All permit fees and liaison officer
- Emergency equipment and supplies at base camp
- Emergency communication
- Access to fixed ropes and camp-sites (not tents)
- Two nights stay in a Kathmandu on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room, sharing basis, ****hotel B/B (private rooms are available for a small additional fee)
- Basecamp setup
- comfortable dining tent, and tables and chairs:
- Skillful base camp cooks
- Three meals each day, warm drinks, snacks
- Private sleeping tent in basecamp
- SAT-phone (against charge USD3/min)
- WIFI-Internet (10GB-card for approx. USD 10)
- Electricity: solar and generator for the night
Full Service
- Expedition Leadership:
- groups of 2-7 members led by IFMGA-SummitClimb-Sherpa-guide
- groups of 8-14 members led by international SummitClimb leader - Organization of your ascent of Ama Dablam
- Transport to Lulka to/from Kathmandu incl. local flights (15kg on your flight, 30kg cargo)
- Ama Dablam base camp trek to/from Lukla for you and your personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag, max. 40 kg), including accommodation and meals on the road
- Expert climbing Sherpa for your ascent:
- 1 sherpa per 3 to 4 guests
- incl. gear allowance, salary, and insurance - Double occupancy tents above base camp:
- 2 high camps on Ama Dablam standard route, Nepal
- stoves, gas, high-camp food
- International flights
- Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
- Personal climbing equipment and clothing (available on request)
- Additional oxygen bottles (for standard ascent not needed)
- Gratuities for staff
- Nepalese visas
- Extra costs if leaving early
