Baruntse Expedition - Nepal Experience
Versatile expedition to Baruntse via Mera Peak, in the Makalu-Everest region of the Himalayas:
✪ Exciting itinerary to experience Nepal
✪ Experienced Guides and Sherpas
✪ Mera-Hinku-Khumbu Trek
✪ Ascent of a 6,000m and a 7,000m peak
Overview
Baruntse (7,168m / 23,517ft): If you look from the Everest area to the extreme southwest corner of the Solo Khumbus, this beautiful ice pyramid falls in your view immediately. This expedition offers the ideal introduction to high altitude and expedition mountaineering and to get to know Nepal.
With the previous ascent of Mera Peak at 6,476m / 21,247 ft height, we are well prepared and acclimatized. Hence, we can start directly towards the summit of Baruntse shortly after arrival at the base camp. Due to the partly very remote region and the varied program, beginners, as well as mountain professionals, can still take home unique experiences from our expedition. We are looking forward to your request and participation (Nepal, 32 days).
Expedition leaders
Itinerary Baruntse Expedition - Nepal Experience
Trip Itinerary Baruntse (32 Days)
Be prepared, flight to Nepal
Kathmandu, Nepal: Latest Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel. Material check and last purchases, otherwise the day is at leisure. We meet for dinner with the entire international expedition team. Hotel near Thamel ÜN/F.
Kathmandu, Nepal: Orientation day in Kathmandu and expedition briefing (further procedure). Hotel ÜN/F.
Salleri, Nepal: Drive to Salleri, 65 km south-southwest of Mount Everest, where the district administration for the Solokhumbu is located. The small town (with just under 10'000 inhabitants) is located in the Sunkoshi river valley and in the surrounding hills we can stretch our legs and acclimatize well. We stay overnight in a hotel with full board, sleeping height: 2600m.
Bung, Nepal: Drive to the larger village of Bung, where we enter the Barun Makalu National Park. Here we are deeper in the valley, but further into the Himalayas, 54km from Mount Everest. Overnight stay in hotel / VP, sleeping height: 1800m.
We hike through subtropical vegetation up to Khiraule, visit Chambalin Monastery. Overnight stay in simple lodge or camp at Khiraule, 2460m.
The surrounding mountains steepen and we reach the alpine vegetation zone. The beautiful farms and yak meadows around Cholemkharka is our destination, overnight in simple lodge or camp, 3580m.
Acclimatization: Rest day at Cholemkharka, acclimatization hike to 4000m, and overnight back to Cholemkarka.
Trek to Khola Kharka: Today we hike past the famous Panch Pokhari, the "five lakes". The lake in Janai Purnima is a popular destination for Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims. The lakes form one of the highest wetlands in the world at an altitude of over 4000 meters. We spend the night in Khola Kharka, 4250m.
Trek to Tangnag: We follow the valley up and down. Soon after a forest border, the alluvial plain of Tangnag is reached. The break of a moraine lake has taken everything with it years ago. Campground at a nice lodge in Tangnag (4356m), tent ÜN/VP.
Trek to Khare: The trail continues uphill. A short daily stage leads to Khare (4870 m), the last inhabited place before the Mera La just below the Mera glacier. Mera Peak and Kusum Kanguru line the view, tent ÜN/VP.
Whole 4 days are at our disposal for the ascent of Mera Peak:
- In Khare, we prepare the ascent, check the material, and plan the further ascent.
- A technically less difficult ascent leads over the partly glaciated Mera La (5415 m) to a protected plateau (5850m), both places are well suited for a high camp.
- From the high camp follows the Mera Peak (6500m) ascent.
- At sunrise, then already over 6000m, our view extends over the Mount Everest massif, the Makalu, the Baruntse, to name only a few of the mountains of the central Himalayas.
This stage leads to Baruntse Base Camp (5350m) at a sandy hollow near a small lake, tent ÜN/VP.
The Puga, the ceremony of the Sherpas, a tribute to the mountain, and our planned ascent, is held. Baruntse base camp: ÜN/VP.
We have 7 days to climb the peak:
- We climb to the high camp at 6140 m.a.s.l. (Camp I) at the West Col
- If necessary, we establish intermediate camp at 6420 m.a.s.l. (Camp II).
- The final southwest ridge is exposed but is secured with fixed ropes.
- Via the break-off into the west face, the slope is longer passages 45° steep and is covered to the east.
Dismantling of the base camp. Trekking direction Amphu Laptsa pass, tent ÜN/VP.
For the round back through the Khumbu Valley, the technically demanding crossing of the 5850 m high Amphu Laptsa Pass and the descent to Chukkum (Chukkung) follows. We will ensure some places with fixed ropes. A wild and impressive trail with a view of the Lhotse south face ends at a beautiful campground called Chutanga (1 hour before Chitunga), tent ÜN/HP.
Waderung via Chukung (4900m) to Pangboche (3750m) at the foot of the Ama Dablam, tent or teahouse to Namche Bazar (3450m), tent or teahouse
Hike to Namche Bazar (3450m), camp, or overnight in lodge.
Hike to Lukla, overnight stay in Teahouse / Lodge.
Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
Reserve day at leisure in Katmandu.
Kathmandu - return flight with arrival in Europe late in the evening or the next morning.
Prepare
Our Baruntse expedition is perfect for determined climbers seeking adventure and exploration. The trekking alone, without any ascents, spans approximately three weeks. Along the journey, we will conquer two remarkable peaks: the relatively accessible 6,500m (21,000ft+ peak) Mera Peak and the more challenging 7,100m (23,000ft+ peak) Baruntse. After registration, you will receive a preparatory briefing. We are happy to discuss the next steps for participating in the expedition with you personally.
Overview
✪ Mera Peak: the ascent is technically easy, a high glacier trekking, and ideal for less ambitious friends and family who want to travel with us.
Temperaturen
✪ Für den Gipfelgang am Baruntse:
- nachts und morgens bis - 25°C
- mit Wind-Chill-Faktor bis - 40°C
Nepal: Reise zum Baruntse
✪ Keine Impfungen vorgeschrieben, empfohlen: Tetanus, Polio, Diphtherie und Hepatitis-A, für Risikogruppen Grippe / Covid-19.
7000m+ Expedition Nepal
This expedition is associated with subjective and objective dangers. Even though we try to make the tour as safe as possible due to our many years of experience, a high degree of personal responsibility and a healthy risk awareness is necessary. The ascent is at your own responsibility and risk.
Participation requirements
Our Baruntse expedition features a beautiful trekking circuit that includes an ascent of Mera Peak for preparation and acclimatization, ensuring a well-rounded high-altitude experience. This makes the expedition an excellent introduction to high-altitude mountaineering for beginners, while also offering a compelling challenge for more experienced climbers.
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In general
Our ascents to the summit of Meru Peak and Baruntse are conducted in independent, self-reliant rope teams under the supervision of our expedition leader, and supported by SummitClimb-Sherpas. While there is no guided tour, we provide every participant on Mera Peak with a refresher course in glacier climbing and fixed rope techniques. This expedition serves as an excellent introduction to high-altitude mountaineering. In addition to requiring excellent physical condition and mental resilience, this expedition also addresses the physiological effects of altitude on the body
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Technical requirements
All exposed and steep parts of the ascent on the Baruntse are secured with fixed ropes by the expedition leader and the Sherpa-Team. Nevertheless, absolutely safe walking is required even on the frontal peaks in shorter passages steeper than 50°. The use of self-belay and independent abseiling should be mastered.
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Physical requirements
The constant strain of trekking (with average stages of about 4-6 hours) should not be underestimated. The endurance for 800 meters (2,700 feet) of ascent is required on our summit days. On the summit day and during the Amphu-Laptsa crossing, the endurance for 10-12 hours of a day tour must be available.
Questiion about Baruntse?
Yes, it is. For acclimatization, it's recommended to ascend to over 6,000 meters before the summit attempt, and descent again for recovery. The appeal of this program lies in the direct ascent (without the back-and-forth to higher camps) to summit Baruntse. You could either acclimatize by climbing Mera Peak again - always worth the views - or skip Mera Peak and instead ascend to the West Col on Baruntse for acclimatization."
At some point in November, it will get cold. Usually really cold (winter comes there too). But otherwise, the weather is (mostly) very stable. It’s possible that you come with a 1:1-Sherpa afterwards to join our already existing infrastructure on Baruntse.
Testimonials
On Baruntse since 2008: We are the only truly experienced and successful provider for Baruntse, having reached the summit every year since then (except during the COVID break in 2020-21). There are several companies now offering trips to Baruntse, but actually, few carry out the expedition. Our CEO – Chief Expedition Officer – Felix Berg has summited Baruntse twice himself.
Our Sherpas and team are highly experienced on this mountain and know exactly what it takes to ensure a safe and successful expedition.
Costs & Services
Basic Service
Included:
- Organization of the entire expedition
- NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) permit for Mera Peak
- NMT (Nepal Ministry of Tourism) permit for Baruntse
- Liaison officer and handling of all formalities with the NMT
- All required fees (including environmental fees) for trekking and ascents
- National park fees for the Khumbu region
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- 4 nights in a **** hotel in Kathmandu, shared double room with breakfast (single room available on request)
- Transfers according to the itinerary, including domestic flight Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu
- Fully supported trekking program (Sirdar, yaks/porters, load transport, support staff)
- Baggage allowance: 40 kg per person
- Full board during the entire trekking period from Lukla to Lukla
- Base for the Mera Peak ascent: lodge accommodation in Khare
- Base camp for the Baruntse ascent, including:
- All group equipment (dining tent, shower tent, toilet tent, kitchen tent)
- Personal sleeping tent (expedition-type tent)
- Catering by a Nepali kitchen team
- Three meals per day and sufficient drinking water - Satellite modem at base camp
- Wi-Fi (for a fee) in lodges up to Khare
- Comprehensive emergency medical kit, including:
- Pulse oximeter
- Medical oxygen
- GAMOW hyperbaric bag - Guidance on preparation and summit strategy
Full Service
All services of the “Base Price” plus
SummitClimb expedition leadership:
- Minimum 2 – maximum 6 participants: Sherpa-led groups (per group)
- Minimum 7 – maximum 14 participants: internationally led groups (per group)
- Pre-expedition preparation (optional event in the alps)
Complete high-altitude camp equipment:
- Expedition tents
- Stoves, gas, and cooking pots
- Specialized food supplies (freeze-dried food, etc.)
- Assistance with tent setup
- Emergency medical kit for each high camp
Technical equipment:
- Glacier ropes
- Fixed ropes and anchoring equipment
- Radios
High-altitude porter Sherpas:
- 1 guide per 3 participants on Mera Peak
- 1 guide per 2 participants on Baruntse
- Including appropriate remuneration, insurance, and personal equipment
- Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepali staff
- Satellite phone on the mountain
Organization and leadership of the ascents:
- Strategy and planning
- Expedition leader and Sherpa support
- International flights
- Personal equipment
- Expenditure of a personal nature (telephone calls, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
- Visa for Nepal (90 days, USD 125 / EUR 115)
- Dinner in Kathmandu
- Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
- Tips / Gratuities
