Overview
Broad Peak is the 12th highest mountain in the world. The climb is suitable as your first 8000m-peak-experience, as well as for experienced high-altitude climbers who wish to broaden their record.
We have been organising epeditions on Broad Peak for over 10 years now. In 2014 Felix Berg led his team to the summit without the usage of supplementary oxygen for the first time. Since then, our teams have reached the summit numerous times.
Our route largely follows the first ascent route of 1957 by the legendary climber Hermann Buhl. It is a challenging normal route on a "moderately difficult" 8000m peak with relatively small objective dangers.
Itinerary Broad Peak Expedition
The journey through Pakistan, trekking in the Karakorum and the ascent of this "moderately difficult" eight-thousand-meter peak requires solid logistical planning and at the same time, a flexible approach that enables adjustments on the spot. The individual coordination of the ascent is carried out by an experienced SummitClimb expedition leader, supported by our professional team in Pakistan.
Broad Peak - What can I expect?
Magnificent views of what is probably the wildest mountain region in the world await you and guarantee a unique experience. The trekking approach itself is impressive: Masherbrum, Gasherbrum IV and the mighty K2 dominate the view. You will meet like-minded people determined to climb the mountain. Our first priority is safety, followed by an unofrgettable adventure together, and then - obviously - reaching the summit.
Our route: We follow the classic normal route along the western flank of Broad Peak via three camps to the saddle (approx. 7800 m) between the middle and the main summit. The first campsites (C1, C2) are located along a prominent rib. At the end of the rib follows a wide slope (C3), which splits up to the saddle between the middle and the main summit. From the saddle, the ridge leads southwards over a rocky, striking pre-summit, known as the "Rocky Summit", to the main summit (8048 m).
Broad Peak - a mighty mountain
History: The mountain known by locals as "Falchen Kangri" was given its current name by W. Martin Conway in 1892: Broad Peak. Until the 1950s, Broad Peak had remained rather unnoticed, in the shadow of K2. In 1954, an expedition by Herrlingkoffer was aborted at an altitude of 6,900 m after several accidents. The first ascent was made by 4 Austrians: Marcus Schmuk (expedition leader), Fritz Wintersteker, Herman Buhl and Kurt Diemberger in 1957 in alpine style. The climbers reached the pre-summit on May 29. Unsure whether the highest point was even further away due to the weather, they descended, only to reach the main summit a few days later on June 9. They climbed without the help of high-camp porters and without the usage of supplementary oxygen - a great achievement of early expedition mountaineering.
Trip Itinerary Broad Peak (35 Days)
Individual departure (Day 1): scheduled flight from Europe, probably with QATAR or TURKISH Airlines.
Arrival in Islamabad early the next morning (Day 2), airport transfer to the hotel and short rest. Hike in the Margalla Hills, optional climbing training with equipment check. Expedition briefing and dinner together.
Airport Transfer 45min /***Hotel B&B
Ideally we fly to Skardu (45min) and spend this day acclimatizing around Skardu.
In case there is no flight, we drive through the Kaghan Valley, Kohistan District, over the 4000m-high Babusar Pass to the Diamir District, Gilgit Baltistan, then continue past Nanga Parbat and through the deep gorges of the Indus to finally reach Skardu (approx 14 hours).
On arrival in Skardu, we have to register with the military.
Overnight stay in the cozy Concordia Motel (or similar) with a magnificent view over the Indus Valley.
Drive approx. 14 hours / or flight approx. 45 min. ** Hotel B&B - Altitude: 2,280 m / 7,480 ft
We travel by jeeps to reach the Braldu Gorge through the lovely Shigar Valley via Dasu. Depending on the conditions, we drive to Askole, the last village, or to Jhola Camp.
Simple accommodation in a room or camp, full board.
Drive approx. 8 hours (or more depending on conditions!) - Altitude: 3,050 m / 3,200 m (10,000 ft / 10,500 ft)
Today we hike to Paiju, a green island with a view on the Baltoro Glacier and the Trango Towers. We set up camp there, overnight stay/board.
Jhola to Paiju: approx. 12 km, +500m / - 300m.
Trek approx. 5-6 hrs. Camp full board, altitude: 3,400 m / 11,320 ft
We enter the Baltoro Glacier. The Trango Towers come into view and the trail continues up and down towards these mighty granite rocks. At Khoborsey (3780 m) we leave the glacier again and hike along the steep moraine, always following the left bank of the Baltoro Glacier to Urdukas (4050 m). We spend the night at this last green spot until our later return from the Karakoram.
Paiju to Urdukas (4,050 m / 13,615 ft): approx. 18 km, +2000 m / - 1500 m, approx. 10 hours.
We climb back onto the glacier. With a view of the Gasherbrum mountains, dominated by Gasherbrum IV, we hike past the beautifully shaped Masherbrum I (7821m) and the Muztagh Tower (7273 m) until we reach Concordia Camp under Gasherbrum IV.
Urdukas to Concordia Camp (4,600 m / 15,000 ft): approx. 15 km, +1500m / - 1000m, approx. 8 hours.
At Concordia, the trail branches off to the north - in the direction of the towering K2 - to reach the base camp on the lateral moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier.
Concordia to base camp (4,900 m / 16,000 ft): approx. 7 km, +700m / -500m, approx. 3 hours.
Rest day at our comfortable Broad Peak Base Camp (BC) and preparations for the rotation that starts the next day.
We may work in different subgroups depending on the strength and fitness level of the participants.
- The minimum altitude reached during the acclimatization phase should be 7,000 m / 22,965 ft to start an ascent without supplementary oxygen.
- We can acclimatize with up to two rotations on Broad Peak along the ascent route.
- Alternatively we may climb a 6,000m peak: the ascent of Pastore Peak (6,210 m / 20,375 ft) is a demanding climb with a long, approx. 40° steep slope, sometimes steeper, and a beautiful summit ridge. The ascent is generally completed in two days from Broad Peak base camp.
We enjoy the comfortable of the base camp during two days. Having completed our acclimatizion rotations, we now need 48h+ of rest time in order to be fit to climb again.
Ascent to High Camp 2 - 6,200m:
The ascent begins at the base camp (4900m) with the crossing of the glacier's melt rivers, which are frozen at night and tricky to cross during the day. We follow moraine terrain to the foot of the west flank (approx. 5200m). The ascent leads along a rock rib through snow-ice and combined terrain, approx. 50° steep with a steep step (UIAA3) to a small plateau, then a rocky snow/ice flank leads to the rib where the 1st high camp is located.
Well acclimatized, we climb further. After a small steep ascent, we follow the firn flanks along the marked rib. The terrain (around 45° steep) has repeated upswings (up to 55°, short rock passages) before flattening out a little. On a stony ridge or the surrounding snowfields we reach the site of the 2nd high camp.
Ascent to High Camp 3 - 7,100 m
A firn flank (approx. 40°, one steeper section) leads to rock towers. We climb through these mostly on snow/firn/ice. Depending on the snow cover, there may also be combined terrain. Expect passages up to 60° steepness and/or II.UIAA grade to a small pulpit (6900m, space for 2 tents), where we enter the upper glacier. We plan to set up the last camp before the summit assault on a broad glacier ridge (approx. 7,100 m).
Wide slopes, 30-40° steep, occasionally with upswings lead into a glacier hollow (approx. 7300m, occasionally Camp 4). A traverse, on average 40° with occasional steep upswings of up to 70°, leads into a steeper gully (approx. 100m, finally 55°), which ends at the saddle (7850 m). We follow a partially exposed ridge southwards with a short chimney (UIIA III, many old fixed ropes) to the pre-summit (Rocky Summit, approx. 8030m). Finally, an approx. 1km long traverse with little elevation gain leads over the broad summit ridge to the highest point (approx. 8050m).
- Rewarding views: the vast steppes of China to the north, the Gasherbrum group to the south, the neighboring giants of the Karakoram to the east as far as Nanga Parbat and K2 towering mightily above the Karakoram. The view rewards all our efforts. Now we have to descend safe and sound, then it's perfect!
- Descent - danger warning: The 1 km long traverse has to be negotiated with a 10-15 meter counter-climb to the Rocky Summit. The summit day has already been long and you must have enough reserves - time and energy - for the descent!
Today we reach the base camp and prepare for the next day's trekking.
We have a whole week - 7 extra days to back-up our plan on the mountain
- There are likely to be weather-related delays in the acclimatization phase and a 7000m touch should have been done before the summit attempt.
- The schedule depends on the weather and on the individual condition of the participants. Extra rest days may come in handy.
We hike via the Concordia to the upper Baltoro Glacier and to Camp Ali (4820m) situated between Mitre Peak and Chogolisa.
The final highlight of the expedition is the crossing of the Gondokoro La Pass (5650m) into the Hushe Valley. The pass has to be crossed early (or at night) - the sunrise offers a fantastic panorama - and then the steep descent to Husbang follows, crossing the Gondokoro Glacier.
A final stage of the expedition with views of the K6-K7 region and the other side of the Masherbrum brings us back to Hushe - towards civilization. The drive through the green Hushe Valley back to Skardu takes six hours. Accommodation as at the beginning in the Concordia Motel.
Return flight to Islamabad. If the weather is not suitable, we will have to drive back via the Karakoram Highway.
Day for debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism and free time in Rawalpindi / Islamabad.
This is also a reserve day for the return journey in case the flight from Skardu is not possible.
Return flight in the early morning and arrival in your home country.
Prepare
Every 8,000m peak ascent is challenging. Broad Peak is considered "moderately difficult" and you should be well prepared for the climb.
Red Tape
• Registration at least 3 months before expedition starting date
• Permit and visa applications approx. 2 months before expedition starting date
• Final briefing approx. 2 weeks before the start of the expedition
Temperatures
At higher altitudes we expect very cold summit push:
• summit in the morning / at night down to - 25°C
• with wind chill factor down to - 50°C
Personal equipment
Downloads
Important information about this expedition
- High altitude and extreme cold inevitably bring danger.
- Due to remoteness and high altitude, the rescue possibilities are extremely limited.
We recommend attending preparatory mountaineering courses if you lack the necessary skills / experience described below. You may also consider additional support by a personal Sherpa or a federal mountain guide. (To be booked in advance.)
Participation requirements
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General requirements
You should have previously climbed to around 7,000m (21,000 ft).
You need alpine climbing experience.
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Technical requirements
You are experienced in climbing up to 50° ice/snow mixed terrain - alpine tours at level D according to French scale / approx. Scottish III.
You know how to use fixed ropes in ascent and descent. Independent assessment of your safety devices is required.
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Physical requirements
Apart from the climb itself, please take into account relatively difficult conditions of the trekking to the base camp.
You need endurance for 1,000 meters / 3,200 ft of ascent at high altitude. Around 10-14 hours are needed on the summit day, plus 4-6 hours of descent. You have to keep your energy and concentration until the very end.
Häufige Fragen zur Expedition
It's actually quite clear: where it doesn't get any higher, at the summit! ... In recent years repeated false reports and strange summit pictures have occured. This error is often caused by high-camp porters (HAP) or Sherpas who no longer want to walk the arduous route from Rocky Summit to Main Summit and provide guests with incorrect information. The route is long and yes, only at the end of the traverse does the snow dome of the main summit pile up. At SummitClimb we are very transparent about your position on the mountain. If needed, anyone can turn back at the pre-summit or intermediate summit but we will do our best to help you climb to the highest point, the real summit!
Yes, thanks to the existing infrastructure (numerous teams present, fixed ropes) this is possible, but you need to be acclimatized. We acclimatise during our trekking to the base camp, while climbing Pastore Peak or hiking up the mountain. Furthermore, we recommend that you spend some time at higher altitude before the expedition, for exemple climbing a few 4000m peaks in the Alps or carrying out hypoxia training at home.
Yes, but shorter means less chance for a good summit window. In addition, there is a big difference between climbing WITH and WITHOUT the usage of supplementary oxygen. Using oxygen gives you an acclimatisation advantage of 1000-1500 meters in altitude, which means 1-2 weeks less in the acclimatization phase. If the weather is perfect, then 4 weeks is just about enough but we do not recommend skipping reserve days for bad weather or any issues that may appear throughout your journey.
4 weeks is very unrealistic for an athletic ascent WITHOUT supplementary oxygen.
Fast-track on 8k: an ascent without oxygen on Broad Peak cannot be planned in 3-4 weeks unless you arrive very well acclimatized! Furthermore, in contrast to Nepal, in Pakistan additional logistical support, such as helicopter flights to the base camp can only be organized with great effort. The costs are 4 times higher than in Nepal and estimated at USD 20,000 per direction (max. 2 passengers). This of course saves time but if you want to climb an 8000-meter peak in just 3-4 weeks, we recommend a fast-track expedition in Nepal (Manaslu), Tibet, China (Cho Oyu) or Mount Everest.
No. Only from 5000m upwards do we enter a zone where people can no longer live permanently; only from 7000m upwards does one reach extreme altitudes where human body degrades very quickly. Without previous altitude experience of 6000m+ and ideally around 7000m+ you should be on the 8000m expedition only if accompanied by a personal Sherpa guide(s) and using supplementary oxygen. We strongly recommend taking part in a 7000m expedition where in a relatively short period of time and with considerably less financial outlay, you can test yourself at higher altitudes.
Definitely yes, all our 8000m expeditions are designed for participants who want to ascend without supplementary oxygen. Only our Everest offer already includes supplementary oxygen in the full service package. Otherwise you have to book O2 support additionally. Furthermore, we offer coaching sessions to help you prepare for an athletic ascent. Contact us for more personalised information.
Testimonials
Since our first expedition to Broad Peak, led by Felix Berg in 2014, we have been organising successful expeditions almost every year (apart from the 2020/21 unexpected Covid interruption). Pakistan is one of our favourite destinations. Our 10-year experience goes from climbing the 8000m summits to exploring the unknown territories. Join us in our next adventure!
Costs & Services
Most climbers book this expedition as "full-service". In case of individual services or special needs, feel free to ask us for further advice before joining the expedition.
In order to join our Broad Peak expedition, please outline your mountaineering experience in the note field, listing the biggest tours of the last 3 years and your altitude experience; or send your information in a separate email. Please read carefully the participation requirements above.
Basic Package
- Organisation of the expedition
- Permit fees (new 2025 permit costs, US$ 3000 per person)
- Liaison officers
- All domestic flights (weather dependent), buses, jeeps and porters
- 40 KG personal baggage transport to base camp
- Three meals each day while traveling to/from base camp
- Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
- Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival. Two nights prior to departure (double room). Single rooms available (small additional fee)
- Full base camp set-up with dining tent, showers, bathroom and solar charger
- Three meals each day while in base camp (limited to 20 days, unlimited for full-service-members)
- Single tents in basecamp
Full Service
- British, European or American leader:
- leadership (not individual guiding) of the ascent - Double tents above base camp
- Group gear and supplies
- Expert climbing Sherpa / High Altitude Porter (HAP):
- min. 1 sherpa per 3-4 clients
- gear, salary, and insurance
- support for the setup of high camps - Setup of fixed ropes, group fixing gear
- Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
- International Flights
- Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
- Personal climbing/trekking equipment and clothing
- Pakistan visa
- Tips
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