G1 & G2 - Gasherbrum Expedition

Individual departure:

We have scheduled flights from Europe, probably with QATAR or TURKISH Airlines that we can book for you; arrival today or early the next morning in Islamabad, Pakistan.

Arrival early in the morning, airport transfer, and accommodation in a simple, private hotel in Rawalpindi/Islamabad - For security reasons we avoid the big international chains. Expedition briefing. Hotel BnB.

Ideally flight to Skardu, otherwise by bus via the Karakorum Highway to Chilas driving along the dizzying gorge of the Indus River. Journey approx. 15 hours. Flight approx. 45 min - overnight stay. Hotel FB.

By jeep, the Braldu Gorge is reached through the lovely Shigar Valley via Dasu. Depending on the conditions, the road can be driven to Askole, the last village, or vehicles may have to be changed about 8 hours drive. Camp FB, altitude: 3,048 m (10,000 ft)

The expected 7-day march to Gasherbrum base camp begins. Today we follow the course of the river Braldu past the Biafo glacier, Korophon (lunch break) to the junction with the Dumordo river. We cross it to reach the camp Jhola, approx. 5 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude above sea level: 3,160 m. (10,367 ft)

Continuing, partly adventurously close, along the Braldu we reach after some up and down the camp at a green forested island called Paiju, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB.

The next day, after a short distance, the 60 kilometers long Baltoro glacier is entered. A laborious up and down over moraines (but with a view of the Trango towers) leads to the southern edge of the glacier, past the Liligo camp to Urdukas, approx. 8 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude: 4,150 m (13,615 ft)

We enter the glacier and walk past Masherbrum and Muztagh Tower to the campsite, from now on the ice, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)

In view of the ever more powerful Gasherbrum IV we reach the famous Concordiaplatz with a view of K2, Chogolisa, and Broad Peak, approx. 4 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,800m (15,750 ft)

The trail branches off to the south. Along with the upper Baltoro and Abruzzi glaciers, we reach the base camp under the basin of the Gasherbrum group, about 5 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 5,000 m (16,404 ft).

We spend a full day to set up and further acclimatize. Camp FB, altitude: 5,000m (16,404 ft).

Ascent and setup for an overnight stay in the 1st high camp - C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

We rest to get used to the altitude.

Ascent and material depot in the 2nd high camp - C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft) and overnight stay in C2.

Ascent and material depot in the 3rd high camp at 7000m (22,965 ft) and descent to C1.

Descent and rest in base camp

Rest days at base camp: It's important to get full 48h+ rest before the summit push.

Summit push: Ascent to C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

Summit push: Ascent to C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft)

Summit push: Ascent to C3 at 7000m (22,965 ft)

Ascent to the Gasherburm II - summit at 8,035 m (26,362 ft)

Descent to C3 and if possible onwards to C2 or C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

Further descent to the C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft) or base camp.

We have a total of ten days as a reserve.

• Most likely we will need additional days due to weather (snow, wind, storm) or conditions (danger of avalanches).
• The acclimatization at 5000m altitude (base camp) level is certainly not yet completed after 2 weeks and further nights in the comfortable base camp will improve your acclimatization
• These days are important to improve our summit chances.

Hidden Peak (G1): The team at Gasherbrum I will proceed similarly and try to reach at least 7000m altitude during the acclimatization. With the help of our porters/guides, we will set up the camps and attach fixed ropes. The team of the doubleheader G I & G II (if necessary +8 days) will use these and relieve the 1st team during the dismantling.

Today you have to arrive at the base camp at the latest and should prepare your things for the next day's departure.

We dismantle the base camp and cross the upper Baltoro glacier to Camp Ali at 4,820m (15,815 ft) between Mitre Peak and Chogolisa.

As the last highlight of the expedition we cross the Gondokoro La Pass at 5,650m (18,540 ft) into the Hushe Valley. The pass has to be crossed early (or at night) - in the sunrise a great panorama shows up - and then follows the steep descent to Husbang, the crossing of the Gondokoro glacier.

The last stage with views of the K6-K7 region and the other side of Masherbrum brings us back to Hushe - towards civilization. The drive through the green Hushe Valley back to Skardu takes six hours. Accommodation as at the beginning of the Concordia Motel.

Return flight to Rawalpindi. Should the weather not be suitable, we have to start the return trip in 24 hours via the Karakorum Highway.

Return flight in the early morning and arrival in Germany or Austria, Switzerland.