Khan Tengri - North Expedition

Arrival in Bishkek, latest early next morning, transfer to the hotel.

Team meeting, gear check, time for a city tour, and opportunity to do some shopping. Accommodation in a hotel.

Car transfer (460 km) to the helicopter station Karkara at the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border. We pass by Issyk-Kul, the second largest mountain lake on earth, picturesquely situated in front of the snow-covered chains of the Tien Shan. Karkara is a small village that lies in a wide valley wtih meadows. Our helicopter is stationed there. Accomodation in tents.

Flight with a helicopter of the Kyrgyz military to the base camp "North Inylchek" (4,000 m / 13,120 ft). We fly over a vast mountain terrain of the Tien Shan, with its wild valleys and large glacial rivers. We land on the moraine of the Northern Inylchek Glacier, where our base camp is set up. It has a large kitchen tent, living tents, and even a sauna.

Acclimatization and preparation for the ascent. Depending on how we feel, we have a rest day or go for a short hike. We prepare the gear for the first acclimatization rotation that starts the next day.

We walk along faint trails across the moraine and cross the flat Inylchek Glacier to the foot of Khan Tengri (approx. 45 minutes to 1 hour). From there, we ascend a flank to the north-facing ridge of Pik Chapayev (also spelled Chapaeva), with views into the immense rock face of the 3,000-meter-high north wall of Khan Tengri. A few crevasses and steep sections of up to 45° (with short steeper passages) will generally be fixed. In a flatter area, there are suitable sites for the first high camp.

We set off early and continue ascending along the ridge of Pik Chapayev. The terrain is consistently exposed and secured with fixed ropes, with occasional short, steep climbing sections featuring combined passages of up to 70°. On a flat snow plateau, there is a good, level site for the second high camp.

From Camp 2, we ascend along the ridge into an increasingly steep flank. Two rock bands provide excellent training terrain for the later summit push. For optimal acclimatization, we aim to climb above 6,000 m; if conditions allow, we will reach the east summit of Pik Chapayev (6,120 m / 20,078 ft). The exposed summit ridge leading to the main summit (6,371 m / 20,902 ft) is rarely climbed. Afterwards, we descend back to High Camp 2.

Very early in the morning, we begin our descent. Safe handling of the fixed ropes, the rappel device (figure-eight), and personal self-belay is essential.

With two nights spent at 5,500 meters and an ascent above 6,000 m, we are well acclimatized for the summit push.

Rest day at base camp. Eating well, sauna sessions, lying in the sun, dozing in the sleeping bag. Expedition life as it should be — and as it’s meant to be.

Rest day at base camp. Eating well, sauna sessions, lying in the sun, dozing in the sleeping bag. Expedition life as it should be — and as it’s meant to be.

Like all summit days, this one begins well before dawn. We leave the shelter of Camp 3 and climb the increasingly steep, rocky West Ridge as the first rays of sunlight reach us. A magnificent panorama unfolds: mountain ranges stretching to the horizon, vast glaciers, the immense 7,439-meter Pik Pobeda — and, of course, a direct view into the massive 3,000-meter (10,000-foot) north face of Khan Tengri.

We ascend on fixed ropes, using jumars for security. After several hours, we reach the tiny platform of Camp 4 at 6,400 meters, where we pause briefly for tea. From there, we continue along the steep, stepped rock ridge, traversing right at around 6,600 meters. A near-vertical 20-meter section, equipped with fixed ropes, leads us into a steep couloir and onto a narrow snow ridge at approximately 6,800 meters. All technical passages are fully secured.

Summit: Crossing the final rocky steps and the survey marker, we step onto the perfectly level summit dome of Khan Tengri - a powerful moment. After a demanding ascent of 1,200 vertical meters (3,900 feet), full concentration is required for the long and challenging descent. We rappel the fixed ropes and return via Camp 4 to the West Saddle. A very long and exhausting day.

Descent to the base camp from C3.

In case of bad weather or longer acclimatization we use these days. In the Tien Shan, there are often bad weather phases with lots of fresh snow. That's why, we have to include reserve days to sit out the bad weather (best of course in the base camp with good food, and the sauna).

Helicopter flight from the base camp to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek in the afternoon. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek.

Transfer to the airport and travel home.