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Khan Tengri Expedition

Join us to climb Khan Tengri:

  • Together with our experienced leaders 
  • Central Asia's most beautiful peak 
  • Challenging mixed-route

Facts

Country
Kyrgyzstan
Altitude
7010 m
Difficulty
Trip dates
12.07.2025 - 01.08.2025
Booking status
from €3,150.00
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Khan Tengri seen from the South Iniljek Base Camp, Kyrgyzstan | © SummitClimb Kyrgyzstan

Overview

Khan Tengri is without doubt one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. This 7,010 meter (22,999 feet) high pyramid made of almost white marble is surrounded by huge glaciers and lies far away from any civilization in the heart of the Tien Shan, the "Mountains of Heaven", on the Kyrgyz-Kazakh-Chinese border.

Thanks to its majestic character, Khan Tengri is the jewel of the five peaks known as "Snow Leopard".

Our international teams with professional mountain guides, including some of the best mountaineers in the world, await you to climb this truly unique mountain.

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Itinerary Khan Tengri Expedition

We travel to the Tien Shan from Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan). From Karkara, a helicopter flight takes us over vast high steppes and deserted, pristine valleys to land in the South Inylchek base camp, 4000 meters above sea level, surrounded by many six-thousand-metre and two seven-thousand-metre peaks.

We have almost 20 days there to fulfill our mountaineering dreams. In this trip, we choose the classic ascent from the South.

Trip Itinerary Khan Tengri (21 Days)

Planned Itinerary

Arrival in Bishkek and transfer to the hotel.

Team meeting, gear check, time for a city tour, and opportunity to do some shopping. Accommodation in a hotel.

Car transfer (460 km) to the helicopter station Karkara at the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border. We pass by Issyk-Kul, the second largest mountain lake on earth, picturesquely situated in front of the snow-covered chains of the Tien Shan. 

Karkara is a small village that lies in a wide valley wtih meadows. Our helicopter is stationed there. Accomodation in tents.

Flight with a helicopter of the Kyrgyz military to the base camp "South Inylchek" (4,000 m / 13,120 ft). We fly over a vast mountain terrain of the Tien Shan, with its wild valleys and large glacial rivers. We land on the moraine of the Southern Inylchek Glacier, where our base camp is set up. It has a large kitchen tent, living tents, and even a sauna. We are supplied by the legendary Kyrgyz mountaineer Dima Grekov and his team.

Acclimatization and preparation for the ascent. Depending on how we feel, we have a rest day or go for a short hike. We prepare the gear for the first acclimatization rotation that starts the next day.

Ascent to C1 (4,200 m / 13,780 ft), overnight stay there. We walk for about an hour along across the moraine, then we cross over to the flat Inylczek glacier at the foot of Khan Tengri. There we establish camp 1 and enjoy the surrounding mountains, especially the impressive south face of Khan Tengri.

Ascent to C2 (5,500 m / 18,045 ft), where we spend the night. Very early, in the middle of the night, we set off and climb up the narrow valley between Peak Chapaev and Khan Tengri towards the West Col. The path leads over an increasingly torn glacier with deep crevasses and impressive ice towers - roping up is absolutely necessary. The crossing under Peak Chapaev is particularly impressive - with big seracs above us. We have to hurry to cross the passage before the first sunrays hit the slope. After the strenuous ascent, we enjoy the rest of the day in camp 2 and hope not to have too many altitude adjustment problems.

Ascent to C3 (5,900 m / 19,357 ft), where we spend the night either in a tent or in a snow cave. From camp 2 we ascend over relatively flat snow slopes to the West Col. At noon this ascent can become very hot, as the sunlight in this glacier basin is very intense. Shortly below the West Col we pitch our tents or make ourselves comfortable in one of the snow caves. Here on the south side of the saddle, we are protected from the cold wind.

Descent to base camp. We start our descent very early in the morning. The most important tools are the ski poles. The descent is amazingly fast, in a few hours we are back in camp 1, around noon in base camp. Thanks to the previous overnight stay at 5,900 meters / 19,350 feet, we now are acclimatized for the summit.

Food, sauna, lying in the sun, dozing in the sleeping bag. Expedition life as it should and may be.

Enjoying the second rest day in the basecamp and packing the equipment for the summit push.

In the morning we can enjoy a slow breakfast and at noon we will make our way to high camp 1.

Ascent to high camp 3.  We leave early from Camp 1, but thanks to previous rotation, the ascent is faster than the first time. In camp 2 we have a thorough break, then we start the second, strenuous and hot part of the ascent towards the west saddle, where our snow cave or tents are waiting for us.

Like all summit days, this day starts very early. We leave the shelter of camp 3 and climb the fixed rope to the saddle in freezing temperatures. From there it goes along the increasingly steep and rocky west ridge, where the first rays of the sun hit us. A magnificent panorama opens up: mountain ranges to the horizon, huge glaciers, and the mighty 7439-meter Pik Pobeda peak. And of course the view into the massive 3,000 meters (10,000 feet!) high Khan-Tengri north face. We secure ourselves on the fixed ropes with jumars. After a few hours, we reach the tiny space for Camp 4 (6400 meters), where we stop for a moment, drink tea. We continue up the steep, stepped rock ridge until we cross to the right at about 6,600 meters (21,650 feet), overcome an approximately vertical passage of approximately 20 meters on fixed ropes, and reach a narrow snow ridge at about 6,800 meters (22,300 feet) through a steep couloir. All difficult passages are secured with fixed ropes. Over the last rocks and the survey triangle, we reach the immaculately flat summit dome of Khan Tengri. A great moment. After the strenuous ascent with a difference in altitude of 1,200 meters (3,900 feet), we have to concentrate fully on the long and demanding descent. We abseil off the fixed ropes and reach the west saddle again via Camp 4. A very long and tiring day.

Descent to the base camp from C3.

In case of bad weather or longer acclimatization we use these days. In the Tien Shan, there are often bad weather phases with lots of fresh snow. That's why, we have to include reserve days to sit out the bad weather (best of course in the base camp with good food, and the sauna).

Helicopter flight from the base camp to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek in the afternoon. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek.

Transfer to the airport and travel home.

Prepare

Conditions of the climb

✪ Demanding summit

✪ Challenging in terms of fitness and technique

✪ Safe handling of Jumars and mixed climbing in the third/fourth degree are necessary.

Khan Tengri is an extremely rewarding seven-thousander for high-altitude mountaineers and alpinists with experience.

Temperatures

✪ On the mountain: cold, windy, dry

✪ BC South Inylchek: down to -15°C

✪ Summit day: down to -25°C, with wind chill down to -40°C

✪ Bishkek - Karkala: up to +30°C

Equipment

✪ You need to bring your personal equipment. Our recommended equipment list is available as PDF download.

✪ SummitClimb provides (for full service participants) all high camp equipment and group material: tents, shovels for high-camp construction, stoves, gas cartridges, ropes, etc.
!

Important information about this expedition

This expedition is associated with subjective and objective dangers. This includes especially the ascent from camp 1 to camp 2, where you have to cross under a steep wall with seracs and cornices. Avalanches are to be expected here. Even though we try to make the tour as safe as possible due to our many years of experience, a high degree of personal responsibility and risk awareness is necessary. The participation is at your own responsibility and risk.

Participation requirements

Mountaineering skills
Stamina / Endurance
  • SummitClimb Team of mountaineers in base camp, tents in the Background | © SummitClimb Kyrgyzstan

    General requirements

    You should have a good knowledge of the common belay techniques. You need skills in camping in winter conditions and knowledge of symptoms of altitude sickness. Experience in technical climbing and in high mountains is a must. Prior 6000m+ experience is helpful. 

    In Tien Shan there are bad weather fronts every summer, which bring up to one meter of snow. Patience is essential - we have included in our program extra days for bad weather.

  • Technical rope climb on the way to Camp 2 of the Southern Route towards Khan Tengri | © SummitClimb (c) Magdalena WIlczek

    Technical requirements

    You should be able to climb safely up to UIAA 3rd-4th difficulty grade in big boots with crampons and be able to climb ice flanks with a steepness of up to 60°.

    You should be familiar with the usage of crampons.

    Experience with abseiling eights and independent abseiling over longer distances are required.

  • Four climbers descending from Camp 3 of 7000m-peak Khan Tengri, Southern Route | © SummitClimb Kyrgyzstan

    Physical requirements

    Endurance for 1,200 meters / 3,900 feet of technical ascent, approx. 6-10 hours, and subsequent descent (abseiling).

    Extremely high focus during the descent due to the technical difficulties (constant danger of falling!). A corresponding degree of fitness is a must.

    Khan Tengri is considered a very cold mountain, even in summer temperatures can fall down to -30°C. Appropriate altitude / winter experience with the appropriate equipment is necessary.

Testimonials

Khan Tengri Testimonials: we have summited Khan Tengri numerous times in various weather conditions. Thanks to years of experience in Tien Shan climbing, we create the best possible framework for your Khan Tengri ascent. 

  • Professional and strong leadership on the mountain. Would use this company again:-)
    John Harrison, 08.11.2023
  • Vielen Dank für die eindrücklichen Bilder. Aber vor allem, vielen Dank für das grossartige Abenteuer welches ihr mir 2023 ermöglicht habt. Du weisst, mein Hauptziel war immer der Khan Tengri... In Anbetracht dessen, dass der KT mein Hauptziel war, ist die Vorbereitung am PL definitiv eine gute Entscheidung. Allgemein gesehen um sichan an die Gegebenheiten einer Expdedition, die Anpassung der Höhe und die Umstellung im körperlichen Verdauungstrakt... read more
    Sebastian ZK, Schweiz, 29.02.2024

Costs & Services

Khan Tengri - Costs & Services: You can join "basic" or "full-service" or beyond (personal guided, etc.); you have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements (see information), then book online now!

Mountaineers getting ready to board a helicopter to reach Khan Tengri at Karkara, Kyrgyzstan | © SummitClimb Kyrgyzstan

Basic Service

  • Organization of your Khan Tengri expedition
  • All necessary permits, IVIR registration and environmental fee
  • Airport transfers in Bishkek 
  • 2 overnight stays in Bishkek, double room, b&bf
  • Up to 4 overnight stays in Karakara camp, double tent, full board 
  • Transfers Bishkek - Karakara - Bishkek
  • Flight Karakara - South Inylchek Base Camp with 40kg personal luggage
  • South Inylchek Base Camp:
    - stationary tent, food tent, shower tent, storage room, toilet tent, showers and sauna
    - catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day in base camp
    - large double tent in base camp with mattress
    - emergency service in base camp (registration with rescue team, radio equipment)
    - medical service in base camp, local doctor present
  • Consultation service for local guides (service against surcharge)
  • Consultation at South Inylchek Base Camp for your climb
Selected Trip: 
12.07.2025 - 01.08.2025
€3,150.00
Booking status
Book
Two climbers ascending steep snow slope to the rocky summit pyramid of 7000m-peak Khan Tengri | © SummitClimb Kyrgyzstan

Full Service

All services included in Basic Service Package PLUS:

  • SummitClimb expedition leader:
    - Small groups of up to 5 participants are led by one of our most experienced local English-speaking mountain guides,
    - Groups of 6 to max 12 full-service participants will additionally be led by one of our international SummitClimb leaders
  • Additional guides per every 3-4 team members including their insurance, equipment, costs
  • All high-camp equipment (you will need to help carry and setup the camps*):
    - tents for two camps (we will move C1 to C2)
    - stoves and pots, gas
    - glacier ropes and fixing ropes
    - firn anchors
    - radios
  • High-camp food (to be prepared by yourself*)
  • Satellite phone on the mountain
  • Professional weather forecast
  • Extensive emergency medical kits for high camps

*if you need further assistance, consider hiring a personal guide/porter.

Selected Trip: 
12.07.2025 - 01.08.2025
€5,955.00
Booking status
Book
Not included
  • International flights
  • Personal equipment and private expenses (telephone calls, drinks, gifts, tips, etc.)
  • Day and evening meals in Bishkek
  • Insurances (emergency, evacuation, medical are required, travel cancelation is recommended).
Suggested upgrades
The following options can be added to your booking:

Book now

Please contact us if you have any questions or require a personalized package.

Feel free to call us:
+49 30 774 90 34
Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

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