Lenin Peak - the beauty of Pamir
Climb Lenin Peak safely with us:
✪ an "easy" 7,134m ( 23,406 ft) summit
✪ an affordable high-altitude expedition
✪ professional mountain guides, strong teams
✪ stunning landscapes of Pamir
Expedition leaders
Lenin Peak: experience the spectacular Pamir
Trip Itinerary Lenin Peak (22 Days)
Meet and greet at the airport in Osh (OSS). Transfer to hotel.
Drive to the Achik-Tach base camp (3700 m / 12'150 ft).
Ascent to ABC (4400 m / 14'400 ft).
In the early morning we organise horses to transport our main luggage and group gear to ABC. After breakfast, we start our hike, we head over Puteshestvinnikov Pass, go down to the moraine and continue 5 more km before reaching the ABC at 4400m. The hike will take 6-8
In the frame of acclimatisation, we ascend Peak Domaschnij (4700 m / 15'400 ft) or Peak Yukhin (5100 m / 16'730 ft). Descent to ABC.
Ascent to High Camp 1 (5300m / 17'400 ft).
We spend a day in High Camp 1, actively resting, hiking up a bit towards Camp 2 and going back to Camp 1.
Ascent to High Camp 2 (6200m / 20'300 ft).
Descent to ABC (or BC)
Further descent to basecamp (BC). Rest day in BC.
Rest day in basecamp.
Ascent to ABC (4400 m / 14'400 ft).
Ascent to High Camp 1 (5300m / 17'400 ft)
Ascent to High Camp 2 (6200m / 20'300 ft).
Summit Day - Peak Lenin - 7134 m / 23405 ft - descent to High Camp 2 (6200 m / 20'300 ft).
Descent to ABC (4400 m / 14'400 ft).
Descent to basecamp.
Rest day (reserve day for delays, weather, etc.) at basecamp.
Drive to Osh, overnight stay in Osh.
Reserve day for bad weather, day off around Osh.
Departure, international flight back home (possibly already arrival home).
Prepare
Peak Lenin is considered one of the "easy" climbable 7000m (23'000 ft) mountains. But no climb above 7000 meters / 23'000 feet is really easy, the altitude alone is a big challenge. The first ascent was made in 1928 by a German-Soviet expedition. It was the highest climbed summit in the world at that time. Even though it became a frequently traveled route nowadays, you still need basic mountaineering skills and strong determination to reach the summit of Peak Lenin.
Temperatures
✪ BC and trek to ABC: -5°C to +15°C
✪ Summit day: down to -25°C, with wind chill down to -40°C
Equipment
✪ SummitClimb provides (for full service participants) all high camp equipment and group material: tents, shovels for high-camp construction, stoves, gas cartridges, ropes, etc.
Downloads
Danger note
This expedition is associated with subjective dangers (high-altitude sickness, climbing mistakes, etc.) and objective dangers (avalanches, crevasse fall, weather events, etc.). Even though we try to conduct the tour as safely as possible with all our experience, we cannot guarantee your safety. A high degree of personal responsibility and risk awareness is necessary. Your participation in our expedition is at your own risk and responsibility.
Participation requirements
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General requirements
The ascent is carried out in independent roped teams under the supervision of the expedition leader. With 1 guide for every 4 participants, we can support you during the ascent but not teach you any of the basics that you need to climb this kind of peak, nor guide you privately. All participants must be independent climbers, who have a good understanding of glacier mountaineering and camping outdoors in wintery conditions. Previous climbing experiences around or above 6000m / 19'000ft are helpful. Participants must also be able to work well together as a team. -
Technical requirements
You should have experience in ascending and descending with crampons up to 40° steep slopes, roped glacier travel and knowledge of the basic techniques of crevasse rescue. The latter can be refreshed during the acclimatization phase. There are no difficulties in rock / mixed climbing. Climbing Lenin Peak is characterized by its glacier ascent, certainly with large crevasses, to 2nd high camp, and a long often wind-exposed but relatively flat summit ridge. The technical difficulties - according to the French alpine scale - are in the range of PD+/AD-.
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Physical requirements
Above-average fitness is necessary for the ascent. Especially after a snowfall, the path can be very strenuous. Comfort levels at high camps are low, and already in BC and ABC you have to take care of your health and consider the impact of high altitude. The stages from ABC to 1st high camp and from 1st to 2nd high camp are of moderate distance, the summit day is long. Very good physical condition for up to 10 hours ascent, gaining 1200 meters / 4000 ft from an altitude of 6000 to 7000m, is required.
Pik Lenin - FAQ
The main season begins on July 1st, when most local operators open their base camps. At the end of June and the beginning of July, there is still a lot of snow on Pik Lenin. By the end of August, operators close their base camps. From late August onward, the general weather pattern becomes more unstable, and by mid-September, the first severe cold snaps are to be expected.
Our dates are in the "high season" from July to August, with the peak period within this time being the first two weeks of August. A long-term weather forecast is not possible. During the high season, we expect relatively stable weather, but unfortunately, storms and prolonged disturbances cannot be ruled out. Flexible, short-term adjustments are necessary (as is the case everywhere in the mountains).
Personally, I prefer the earlier dates—the advantages are: a closed snow cover, lower crevasse risk, longer days, and fewer people. The two later dates are also good and have been favored by the weather in recent years.
Between July 1st and August 30th, we can also organize independent Pik Lenin expeditions (or those guided by a local guide) and integrate your individual schedule into our expedition logistics. Outside of this period, climbing Pik Lenin is still possible but certainly a more challenging endeavor with cold and unstable conditions. All base camps only open in late June or early July and close by early September at the latest.
If there are 8 or more participants, a SummitClimb expedition leader from Europe will lead the expedition. For groups of 6–7 participants, we do make exceptions and still provide an expedition leader at no extra cost. However, we always need to assess whether this is feasible within our fixed staff and expedition planning.
For smaller groups with fewer than 6 participants, the leadership of the Pik Lenin expedition will be entrusted to one of our highly skilled local mountain guides (at no extra cost). In Bishkek, we have strong connections with mountain guides who regularly work in high camp support for us and have frequently climbed Pik Lenin.
Testimonials
At Pik Lenin, we won’t be alone - there are many operators and even more aspirants. With us, you can rely on our many years of experience and a long-standing, friendly, and family-like collaboration with our local partners. Since 2015, our CEO, Felix Berg, has been in Kyrgyzstan, Central Asia, every year (except in 2020) to lead and organize expeditions. In a typical year, we run one to three expeditions to Pik Lenin and have a team of expedition leaders with extensive Lenin experience.
After the Covid-19 interruption in the summer of 2020, we had two expeditions to Pik Lenin in the summer of 2021, and both teams reached the highest point (7,134 m) with the famous Lenin bronze bust (summits on July 26 and August 9, 2021). Since then, successful Lenin expeditions have taken place every year. Our CEO, Felix Berg, summited Lenin 2017, 2023, and 2024 with some of our groups, ensuring an excellent setup for our participants with his presence.
Costs & Services
Pik Lenin costs and services depend on the package you choose. We offer a basic package with all the necessary basic services to climb the mountain independently. Our full-service package starting from Europe (with Economy class tickets included but upgrades are possible if requested) offers full support during the climb, such as organisation of high camps, all equipment, guides and group leadership by our expedition leader. Additional upgrades, such as porter-services for your personal gear and personal guides are available too. We are happy to accept individual inquiries about Pik Lenin. Please check the requirements described. If you meet them, you can book online here.
Full Service
For Full-Service participants (additionally to all basic services) includes:
- SummitClimb expedition leader:
- Small groups of up to 6 participants are led by one of our most experienced local English-speaking mountain guides,
- Groups of 7 to max 14 full-service participants will additionally be led by one of our international SummitClimb leaders - 1x transfer of your personal equipment (max. 15 kg) from BC to ABC by horses
- 1x transfer of your personal equipment (max. 15 kg) from ABC to BC by horses
- Leadership by experienced SummitClimb expedition leader and guides on the mountain
- Additional guides per every 3-4 team members including their insurance, equipment, costs
- All high-camp equipment:
- tents for two camps
- stoves and pots, gas
- glacier ropes and fixing ropes
- firn anchors
- radios - High-camp food (to be prepared by yourself)
- High-camp support for group gear (porterage of tents, but not of personal gear)
- Satellite phone on the mountain
- Professional weather forecast (ZAMG Innsbruck)
- Extensive emergency medical kits for high camps
Basic Package
The basic package (these services are included in the Full Service package as well):
- climbing permit, IVIR registration, and environmental fee
- Airport transfers in Osh
- 2 overnight stays in Osh, double room, half board
- Transfers: Osh - Pik Lenin base camp - Osh
- Complete base camp equipment at Achik-Tasch (3,600m / 11'800 ft):
- stationary tent, food tent, shower tent, storage room, toilet tent, showers and sauna.
- Catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day in base camp
- Large double tent in base camp with mattress, on a wooden platform
- Emergency service in base camp (registration with rescue team, radio equipment)
- Medical service at base camp, local doctor present - All ABC (Advanced Base Camp) equipment (4,200m / 13,780 ft):
- stationary tent, food tent, shower tent, storage room, toilet tent
- Catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day at ABC (4,200m / 13,780 ft)
- Double tent in ABC with mattress, on a wooden platform - Electricity (220V, 50HZ) by a generator: all day in base camp, at night in ABC
- Consultation service for local guides (service against surcharge)
- International flights
- Personal equipment and private expenses (such as telephone calls, alcoholic drinks, gifts, tips, etc.
- Day and evening meals in Bishkek / Osh
- Insurances (emergency, evacuation, and medical are required, travel cancelation is recommended).
Book now
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