Overview
Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world, holds a very special magic for many mountaineers. It is gigantic and beautiful to look at. Located between Everest, Baruntse and the flat Terrai, it is often ignored and hence on of the less crowded 8000m-peaks. The trekking to the base camp is beautiful and Makalu is a rather lonely mountain, remote, challenging, difficult to climb.
Expedition leaders
Makalu Expedition
Makalu is located in a remote region of Nepal. Although not far from Mount Everest, steep passes and repellent ridges and mountains separate the Makalu region from the Khumbu (Everest) area. Thus, a wild and original approach to the base camp awaits us: The Barun Valley winds into the Himalayas between Baruntse and Makalu. On the southwestern side of Makalu, we set up our base camps (BC, ABC) for our ascent. The ascent is planned via the classic route with three to four high camps (C1 at 6100m, C2 at 6700m, C3 at 7400m and C4 at 7600m).
Makalu - N°5
Trip Itinerary Makalu (54 Days)
Pack up and clean up (all waste is brought back) at ABC, then a 5-day return trek along the approach route back to Kathmandu (2 nights), followed by transfer to the airport.
Prepare
To prepare for climbing Makalu, focus on physical conditioning through endurance and strength training, as well as acquiring technical alpine climbing skills, ensure you have the right gear, including cold-weather clothing and high-altitude equipment.
General Conditions
Temperatures
• Wind chill factor reaching up to -55°C / -67°F
Gear
8000m+ Danger Notice
Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at their own risk. The extreme altitude and cold bring with it extremely subjective (due to the lack of oxygen) and objective (weather changes, cold, etc.) dangers! Rescue possibilities are extremely limited.
Participation requirements
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To join the team
You have high-altitude experience from min. around 7,000 m / 23,000 feet and are an independent mountaineer (alpine tours at least AD according to UIAA scale) and have experienced camping and cooking in wintry conditions.Less experienced, you can only join with a 1:1 guide. -
Technical Skills
The greatest difficulties on the three steep sections are mitigated by fixed ropes. However, rope-free access to 45° steep snow and firn slopes, as well as rock climbing up to UIAA 3, must still be mastered with complete safety. In particular, securing yourself on the fixed rope with ascenders and using abseiling techniques must be done with absolute proficiency (even with thick gloves!). The final couloir leading to the summit is the crux of the climb.
Ice climbing techniques, glacier travel with crampons, and alpine climbing skills are essential. You should also be familiar with crevasse rescue techniques and the symptoms and basic treatment of frostbite and high-altitude sickness.
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Physical demands
Testimonials
Costs & Services
You can join our basic climb (all necessary permits, basecamp setup, expeditions support) or you can join our full-service option including all high-camp services and proficient leadership for your ascent. Together we are stronger and starting from 6 full-service-participants our experienced SummitClimb guide will lead your expedition. You are also welcome to send an inquiry and get further advice before joining our Makalu expedition. Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 5 years and altitude experience) or send your tour report in a separate email. If you have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements, then book online now!
Basic Package
- Organization of your participation
- 4 nights in Kathmandu in ***Hotel DZ/F
- Climbing permits for the Makalu
- Permission of the Nepali Ministry of Tourism for the expedition
- National park fee for the Makalu-Barun National Park
- Laison Officer (liaison officer) incl. all costs
- Fees of the Ministry of Tourism
- Garbage Deposit - Accommodation and full board during the trek to base camp
- Transport of personal gear (to BC: 40kg, return: 35kg)
- Base camp setup:
- Comfortable single tent per participant
- Dining tent, kitchen tent and material tent
- Toilet tent(s) depending on group size, shower tent
- Catering by experienced Nepali kitchen team
- Full board (up to 30 days) at Makalu base camp - Satellite telephone and SAT Internet in BC (use for a fee)
- Power system in base camp (limited use)
- Extensive emergency pharmacy for the base camp
- Pulse oximeter, medical oxygen, a hyperbaric chamber at base camp
- Satellite telephone for emergencies
- Emergency assistance
Full Service
All services from the basic package and:
- Summit expedition leadership:
- 2-5 members - Sherpa-Guide
- 6-10 members - international leader
- All high camp equipment (tents, stoves, pots, etc.):
- One tent per camp for 2 participants
- Setup of 3-4 high camps, supported by sherpas
- MSR Reactor cookers, including gas - High altitude porters/Sherpas including their insurance and equipment
- Fixed ropes, group ropes and fixing material
- Radio equipment (5-10 Watt, UHF/VHF)
- International flights
- Personal equipment and expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
- Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
- Visa Nepal (up to USD 125)
- Tips / Summit-Bonus
Book now
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