Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish
An extraordinary expedition with:
✪ 6000m, 7000m, and 8000m ascent
✪ alpine style ascent of the Makalu
✪ highly experienced expedition team
✪ Himalaya expert Felix Berg
Overview
Our route takes us through the Himalayan mountains via Mera Peak (6,500 m / 21,000 ft) and Baruntse (7,200 m / 23.000ft) as preparation for the ultimate challenge: the ascent of Makalu (8,500 m / 27,800 ft). On this expedition, style matters: we climb self-sufficiently, cleanly, and in true alpine spirit.
Experience the thrill of an 8,000-meter ascent by fair means with expert alpinist Felix Berg leading the way. We plan to trek from mountain to mountain, climb each in semi-alpine style with minimal support: no high-altitude porters to carry our gear, and only a limited setup of fixed ropes and high camps. Experienced alpinists and high-altitude climbers are welcome to join this extraordinary adventure!
Expedition leaders
Makalu Trilogy
A Long Way to Makalu: Even without summit climbs, this expedition is an unforgettable and adventurous trek through the Hinku Himal, crossing the Mera La into the Honku Valley, and continuing over the West Col and Sherpani Col into the stunning Barun Valley of the Makalu region.
Climbing 3 peaks: Along the way, we aim to climb three iconic peaks — Mera Peak, Baruntse, and Makalu — in a clean, sportive style. While trekking and at base camps, we benefit from reliable local support and infrastructure. On the ascents, however, we climb self-sufficiently and by fair means, avoiding fixed ropes wherever possible on the normal routes of these majestic 8,000-meter mountains.
Trip Itinerary Makalu Trilogy (43 Days)
Individual departure, from Europe (worldwide on request). Latest arrival early in the morning in Kathmandu on the second day. Airport transfer to hotel.
Day 2: Gear check, Orientation day in Kathmandu and expedition briefing, packing of expedition equipment.
After a helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2700m). We hike over the Zatra La (4,580 m) to Khare (5,000m), the starting point for the Mera Peak ascent.
The first mountain climb of our expedition awaits: a technically straightforward ascent leads to the summit of Mera Peak (North) at 6,476 m (21,247 ft), the highest of all the Mera Peaks. The Central and South summits are passed along the way.
Hike to Baruntse Base Camp (5,100 m), rest day, and Puja.
We climb alpine style, supported to West Col by our trekking support team. Steps / Days could be planed as:
- Westcol: We climb to 6,140 m (20,145 ft) to camp
- High Camp: Ascent to the 2nd High Camp at 6,400 m (21,000 ft) Baruntse ascent
- Summit Push: The ascent follows the long southwest ridge to the summit and then back to High Camp 1.
In two days, we reach the Hillary Base Camp (4,870 m) via the Sherpani Col, where we plan for another three days of rest.
To climb our thrid peak the steps are:
- Makalu ABC - 5,700 m (18,700 ft): Ascent to ABC. This advanced base camp is the actual base for our planned ascent
- Camp II - 6,700 m (21,980 ft): Well acclimatized, we can skip the classic Camp I at 6,100 m (20,000 ft). If necessary, there is another campsite at 6,450 m (21,160 ft) after the steep step called Headwall.
- Camp III - 7,500 m (24,605 ft): Ascent through steep cliffs to camp 3, material depot and descent to camp II.
- Makalu Summit - 8,485 m (27,838 ft): We cross the large Makalu Plateau up to almost 7800 meters, where we enter the summit slope via the French couloir. Without great technical difficulties, we reach the pre-peak, also known as False Summit. A short exposed traverse leads to the main summit. Descent to Camp III.
We have 10 days in reserve for our program, especially for the Makalu ascent
The return journey to Kathmandu takes six days:
- Packing up and clearing the base camp, departure to Hillary Base Camp
- Trekking to Mumbuk
- Trekking to Tashi Goan
- Trekking to Nun, drive from Nun to Khadbari or Tumlingtar
- Tumlingtar, flight to Kathmandu
- Kathmandu, reserve day
Alternative: Helicopter flight to Kathmandu (home flight possible on day 38/39) or extension to another 8,000-meter peak.
Airport transfer, departure from Kathmandu for your flight home.
Prepare
What to expect
Temperatures
night/early down to –35 °C (–31 °F)
wind chill factor –50 °C (–58 °F).
Gear
Downloads
Danger Warning
Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. We organize or lead this tour, but we do not take on the role of guiding. The extraordinary altitude and cold weather bring with it extremely subjective (due to the lack of oxygen) and objective (sudden changes in weather, cold, etc.) dangers.
Participation requirements
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Technical
Rope-free climbing of 50° steep snow and firn flanks and mixed terrain must be mastered absolutely safely. You should be able to climb mixed climbing to Scottish IV (French TD-routes). We do not plan to fix the route, only extremely exposed and delicate passages can be provided with fixed ropes on our part. Independent mountaineering, camping, and cooking in the most wintry conditions, a solid ice technique, crevasse recovery, and alpine climbing techniques should be well known. You should have knowledge about the recognition and prevention of frostbite symptoms, altitude sickness, and treatment methods. -
Physical
Comfort renunciation due to the difficult conditions of traveling and trekking should be considered. Assistance in camp construction requires physical robustness. An excellent physical condition is required. During the ascent from Camp 3 at 7,500 m (24,600 ft) more than 1,000 meters (3,200 feet) of climb at extreme altitude awaits us. Alternatively, 2 nights in extreme altitude (camp 4 at 7,600m to 7,800m) is accompanied by heavy physical strain too. Be prepared for a tough and long expedition.
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Travel to Nepal
Easy.
Testimonials
The Makalu trilogy pilot project was carried out for the first time in 2021 under the leadership of Felix Berg with summit success on Mera Peak (main and north summit), but weather permitted the other two summits (on Baruntse 6900m reached, on Makalu 7700m reached). We are applying all our experience to realize the complex logistics and the three ascents in a sportive style again in 2027.
Costs & Services
We organize the Makalu Trilogy at the same service level for all participants, an exklusive 8000m alpine style. At the Base Camps we use a good infrastructure, we organize the full and complex logistics but go in a sportive style on the mountain ascents themselves. Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 5 years and expedition experience) or send us your tour report in a separate email. We will be happy to inform you about our expedition. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements (see information), then register online and we will check your participation in our Makalu Trilogy.
Membership - Makalu Trilogy
- Summit expedition leadership:
- expert Felix Berg
- min. 5 max. 7 members - Organization and coordination of the expedition
- Permission for the ascents of Mera Peak, Baruntse and Makalu:
- Official climbings permit for all three mountains
- Laison with NMA and Ministry of Tourism
- All fees incl. national park and environmental depot - 4x nights in Kathmandu ****Hotel in single B/B
- Transfers according to the program:
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Helicopter flight Kathmandu to Lukla
- Drive Num to Tumlingtar, private vehicle
- Return flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu - Trekking to Mera Peak:
- Accommodation in lodges /guest houses to Khare (sharing)
- Full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- Transfer of personal luggage to Khare, max. 20kg - Trek to Baruntse base camp:
- Light double tent for two participants
- Small common tent / kitchen tent
- Catering by Nepali cook, full board - Makalu base camp:
- Comfortable single tent per participant
- Dining tent, kitchen tent, material tent, shower tent, toilet tent(s)
- Catering by experienced Nepali kitchen team
- Full board at Makalu base camp
- Free SAT Internet in BC
- Solar power system / Generator
- Emergency oxygen, hyperbaric chamber at base camp - Emergency pharmacy for the expedition
- Satellite telephone for emergencies (usage againt charge)
- StarLink-Internet (in Base Camps free of charge)
- Ascents Mera, Baruntse and Makalu:
- Alpine lightweight tents
- Cookers, pots, gas, and food
- Group ropes and rack for an alpine ascent
- International flight from/to Nepal
- Personal equipment
- Expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
- Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
- Visa for Nepal (valid 90 days, USD 125)
- tips for staff
