Everest North - Climb from Tibet
Climb Mount Everest with Us:
✪ Guiding expeditions in Tibet since 2004
✪ Expert leaders and highly experienced Sherpas
✪ Fair pricing and personalized solutions
✪ Everest-Experts Felix Berg & Arnold Coster
Overview
Join our experienced team as we celebrate our 21st year in Tibet, China, climbing the world’s highest mountain - Mount Everest (8,848 m / 29,035 ft) - from the majestic North Side. Our leader’s expertise ranks among the finest in the world, reflected in an exceptional success rate built over two decades of Himalayan experience.
For many climbers, Everest represents the ultimate objective - an enduring symbol of challenge, perseverance, and achievement. The allure of standing atop the world’s highest point continues to inspire those who dare to dream big. Where there is a will, we’ll find the way.
Fewer climbers attempt this route, deterred by stricter Chinese regulations and higher logistical costs. Success on the North Side demands expert acclimatization, precise planning, and sheer resilience against Everest’s most unforgiving elements.
Everest Expedition North - Tibet, China
Climbing Mount Everest from the North Side (Tibet) begins with a rugged trek to Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m / 21,000 ft) along the barren expanse of the Rongbuk Glacier. From there, climbers ascend the steep, icy slopes of the North Col (7,010 m / 23,000 ft) before tackling the exposed Northeast Ridge. The route’s most infamous obstacle, the Second Step - a near-vertical rock wall now equipped with a ladder - demands both technical skill and composure at extreme altitude.
Higher camps at 7,500 m and 8,300 m serve as precarious staging points for the final summit push, where climbers face thin air, hurricane-force winds, and brutal cold. Though it avoids the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall on the southern route, the North Side offers no reprieve: its technical rock sections and harsher climate make it every bit as formidable.
Preparation on Mera Peak: To aid acclimatization before entering Tibet, we begin our climb in Nepal. After a helicopter flight to Lukla (2,866 m / 9,400 ft), we trek to Kahre (4,800 m / 15,744 ft), the last village before Mera Peak. The Mera Peak climb takes 2–3 days: we ascend to High Camp (5,800 m / 19,024 ft) and spend the night, then set off early for the summit (6,476 m / 21,247 ft). The climb is technically easy, though the final section can be steeper with fixed ropes, and altitude remains a significant challenge. The summit offers stunning panoramic views of the Himalaya.
Via Lhasa to Mount Everest: We will fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Upon arrival, we become guests of the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), which handles our schedule, transportation to the Chinese Base Camp, accommodations, and meals. In Lhasa and Shigatse, there will be some sightseeing opportunities, always as a group with a CMA guide.
Mount Everest, Tibet
In the Footsteps of Pioneers: The first explorations of Mount Everest took place from Tibet, with notable British expeditions led by George Mallory in the 1920s. Early summit attempts occurred in 1921, 1922, and 1924 under the Royal Geographical Society, reaching an altitude record of 8,500 m. Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared near the summit in 1924, and whether they reached it remains a mystery.
Ascents: The first confirmed ascent was in 1953 from the Nepalese side. The Tibetan side (northeast ridge) was reportedly first summited in 1960 by a Chinese expedition, though documentation is limited. In 1963, the first officially recognized American expedition from the west ridge of Nepal pioneered the upper part of the north face (Hornbein Couloir). A better-documented second ascent of the north side followed in 1975 by a Chinese team along the established normal route.
The north route starts with an eastern ice slope leading to the North Col (1st high camp, 7,010 m / 23,000 ft), continues along the north ridge (2nd high camp at 7,500 m / 24,600 ft and 3rd high camp at 8,300 m / 27,230 ft), and proceeds via the northeast ridge from 8,500 m to the summit. The summit push involves three steeper sections, with the exposed traverse and ladder section forming the key technical challenges both ascending and descending.
Why choose us?
Itinerary Everest North (51 Days)
Arrival in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, where our expedition team meets.
- Day 1: Arrival in Nepal, Kathmandu
- Day 2: In Kathmandu for official procedures and preparations. Today, we are submitting our application for the Tibet Group Visa, which must be processed collectively and requires the original passports of all team members.
Climbing Mera Peak provides excellent acclimatization and a chance to use Everest equipment in advance, allowing for final adjustments before reaching Chinese Base Camp. We believe that the best way to train for climbing mountains is by climbing mountains, and being able to do a small peak as acclimatisation is a huge advantage.
- Day 3: Heli flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2866m-9400ft) and trek to Paiya (2730m-8954ft), Lodge FB.
- Day 4: Trek to Pangokma ( 2846m-9334ft), lodge FB.
- Day 5: Trek to Chatra khola (3150m-10332ft) via Ramailo danda, lodge FB.
- Day 6: Trek to Kothe (3550m-11644ft), lodge FB.
- Day 7: Trek to Thagnak (4350m-14268 ft), lodge FB.
- Day 8: Trek to Khare ( 4800m-15744ft), lodge FB.
- Day 9: Khare: Preparations for the climbing, lodge FB.
- Day 10: Ascend to High camp (5800m-19024ft), supported.
- Day 11: Summit Mera Peak (6654m-21825ft) and back to Khare, lodge FB.
- Day 12: Contingency day for climbing.
- Day 13: Trek to Khare from Khote.
- Day 14: Heli flight from Khote via Lukla to Kathmandu.
- Day 15: Rest & relax in Kathmandu, last-minute shopping, free day.
We fly to Lhasa, Tibet, to approach Mount Everest via a culturally rich and fascinating route. Along the way, we will experience Tibetan culture, visit historic monasteries, and take in the stunning Himalayan landscapes, making the journey a memorable complement to our expedition.
- Day 16: Fly Kathmandu-Gonggor airport and drive to Lhasa (3650m- 11680ft), hotel FB.
- Day 17: Sightseeing in Lhasa, hotel FB.
- Day 18: Drive to Shigatse (3900m-12480ft), hotel FB.
- Day 19: Drive to Thingri (4350m-14,268ft), hotel FB.
- Day 20: Drive to Everest base camp (5200m-17,056ft), comfortable setup with private tent, FB.
- Day 21: At base camp, we focus on acclimatization and preparing loads for transport to the advanced base camp.
- Day 22: Contingency day.
Everest Base Camp Tibet: Comfort Meets Adventure
Our base camp is both comfortable and well-equipped, featuring a spacious, heated communal dining tent, a fully stocked kitchen, electric lighting, charging facilities, hot showers, and even a projector for entertainment - basically everything we need for a comfortable life at high altitude! Each member will have a private, roomy tent with a comfortable mattress, ensuring rest and privacy after a long day.
We plan to spend the next 10 days for further acclimatization. Each participant’s personal goal is to spend at least one night at the North Col (above 7,000 m), with the ideal target being able to touch 7,500 m.
The gentle ascent along the Rongbuk Glacier leads to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC), situated at 6,400 m / 20,992 ft, making it the highest base camp in the world and the true starting point for the climb. About 25 km from the Base Camp our ABC is a stripped version of Base Camp, but still fully equipped with a kitchen, a heated dining tent, offering everything necessary to support our climb. Each member has a mountaineering tent with a mattress for personal space.
- to advanced base camp (6400m-20,992ft)
- Day 25: Rest & Acclimatisation in ABC
- Day 26: Day hike to the start of the fixed ropes approx. 6700m
- Day 27: Climb to the North Col; camp 1 (7,010 meters-22,966 feet) - sleep
- Day 28: If feeling good climb to 7500m and return to North col - sleep
- Day 29: Decent to ABC
- Day 30: Descent to Chinese Base Camp
- Day 31: Rest and recovery in Chinese Base camp; prepare for the summit push
- Day 32: Rest and recovery in Chinese Base camp; prepare for the summit push
Intrim & high camps are high altitude camps. We share mountaineering tents, also for safety reasons and warmth, and the Sherpa will cook basic meals for us. This is where the real mountain life takes place!
Climb 7000m+ on Everest (North)
ABC to the North Saddle (Camp 1, 7,010 m / 23,000 ft): From an altitude of 6,500 m / 21,325 ft, a wide, crevasse-free glacier leads to a 300 m / 985 ft high ice and snow slope facing east. The slope averages 45°, with a few steeper sections, culminating at the North Saddle, situated between the 7,550 m / 24,757 ft high Changtse and the 8,000 m / 26,247 ft pinnacles of Everest.
- Ascent: 4 - 7 hours
- Descent: 2 - 4 hours
North Ridge (Camp 1 to 7,500 m / 24,606 ft): The North Ridge features snow and firn ridges up to 40° steep, leading to 7,500 m / 24,606 ft. Tents are set up on rocky terrain, positioned as wind-protected as possible. Camp 2 is very exposed and susceptible to strong winds, situated at 7,500-7,600m.
- Ascent: 4 - 7 hours
- Descent: 2 - 4 hours
This is a suggested ideal itinerary; adjustments may be necessary depending on weather, client fitness, and the pace of acclimatization. Contingency days will likely be required before we can begin the summit push.
- Day 33: Trek to ABC
- Day 34: Rest in ABC
- Day 35: Climb to North Col - sleep
- Day 36: Climb to C2; 7500-7600m - sleep
- Day 37: Climb to C3; 8300m and leave for summit push in the night
- Day 38: Summit Everest and descend as low as possible, ideally ABC
- Day 39: Arrival in ABC
- Distance: ABC (6,400m) -> Camp 2 (7,500m) -> Camp 3 (8,300m) -> SUMMIT (8,849m)
- Times (ascent): Daily stages of about 4-6 hours (Camp to Camp) and on summit day 8-12 hours.
- The descent from the summit back to ABC is possible (about 6-8 hours).
Shortly after ABC (6,500 m), a wide glacier leads to a 300 m ice and snow slope facing east. This slope averages 45°, with a few steeper sections, ascending to the North Col, located between Changtse (7,550 m) and the Everest pinnacles (8,000 m). The route then follows the North Ridge, featuring snow and firn ridges up to 40°, continuing to around 7,500 m. Near 7,900 m, the rocky North Ridge leads to a small plateau, which can serve as an alternative camp—especially for climbers without supplemental oxygen. From there, the route traverses 40° snowfields, first upward and then right onto the North Face. At approximately 8,300 m, a small snowfield provides space for Camp 3. Up to this point, the climb is technically straightforward, interrupted only by short sections of block climbing and steeper terrain (up to 45°).
From Camp 3 to the Summit
Departure is recommended shortly after midnight. A short ascent brings climbers to the Yellow Band, a section of block terrain (UIAA 1–2). From there, the route continues to the Northeast Ridge (~8,500 m) over steep, mixed terrain (~40°). The climb progresses along the ridge toward the summit, beginning with the First Step (15 m, UIAA 2–3). Next is the Second Step (~8,650 m), featuring exposed ledges and a short rock section (UIAA 3) aided by a ladder. The Third Step is less technical (UIAA 1–2), leading onto a 45° snowfield. From here, the route traverses right over crumbly rock and along a snow ridge to reach the summit structure and highest point.
Spare days for summit
Prepare
Successful Everest climbers typically have prior experience on 7,000m+ or 8,000m+ peaks, solid technical skills, and strong fitness. While Everest isn’t the most difficult mountain, it’s far from easy - expect steep rock and snow sections that require confidence on crampons, fixed ropes, and rappels. Rope techniques will be reviewed during the Mera Peak climb and at ABC.
Climbing Everest is a major challenge. Our strong team consists of expedition leaders, Sherpas, and you - our valued member! While your ascent is undertaken independently and at your own responsibility, our experienced expedition experts are there to guide and support you every step of the way. We pride ourselves on maintaining an excellent Sherpa-to-participant ratio, fostering a close-knit and capable team on the mountain. With our experience and infrastructure, combined with your determination, you can achieve your dream.
Prepare: If you’re unsure about your readiness or would like a training plan, contact us. We have an excellent track record of helping climbers develop the skills and experience needed for success.
Everest - Tibet
✪ Objectively the safest route
✪ High, easily accessible Base Camp
✪ Shorter daily stages during ascent
✪ Remote and tranquil atmosphere in Tibet
General: An 8,000m expedition on Everest’s North Side is demanding - extremely cold, windy, and dry, with technically challenging terrain.
Summit Push Conditions:
✪ Night/morning temperatures: down to –35°C
✪ With wind chill: as low as –55°C
Steps to Everest
2. We regularly organize events in the Alps and Pyrenees, where our experts prepare you for the expedition both theoretically and practically.
3. Our office serves as a central point of contact for all organizational questions – from booking flights to the administrative formalities of the ascent.
4. Shortly before the expedition, there will be a second briefing including information about the final team, meeting points, contacts, and hotels.
Equipment
✪ You’ll need to bring your personal equipment. Our recommended equipment list is available as PDF download.
✪ If needed, we can advise you on renting (internal shop) or purchasing suitable gear.
Downloads
Dangers: Everest Expedition Tibet
Participation requirements
Please read carefully our requirements and recommendations for your Everest climb!
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General requirements
✪ Membership:
✪ Less experienced climbers can join with an extra 1:1 guide. You may consider our personal training program to prepare efficiently.
✪ O₂ / Sherpa: To climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen and Sherpa support, you should have successfully climbed at least one 8,000m+ peak in a similar style. In Tibet, however, Sherpa support and oxygen are mandatory.
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Physical requirements
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Technical requirements
The greatest difficulties on the three steep sections are mitigated with fixed ropes, and once even with a ladder (2nd section). Nevertheless, we recommend:
- Confident, ropeless climbing on 45° steep snow and firn slopes, and climbing in mixed terrain up to UIAA grade 3 (French 3a, YDS 5.3).
- Absolute proficiency in fixed-rope techniques using an ascender and in abseiling techniques (with thick gloves!).
- Knowledge of recognizing (and thereby preventing) symptoms of frostbite and altitude sickness is helpful.
Testimonials
Since 2004 on Everest in Tibet - when Arnold Coster and Felix Berg reached the summit for their first time - we have proudly organized 15 successful expeditions on the mountain’s legendary North side. During the seasons of 2016, 2017, 2018, and 2019, numerous participants and Sherpas from our team stood on the summit, continuing our strong legacy of success. In the seasons of 2016, 2017, 2018, and 2019, numerous participants and Sherpas from our team stood on the summit, continuing our strong record of success. After a long pause due to the global pandemic, China reopened Mount Everest to foreign climbers in 2024 - and we are thrilled to once again offer expeditions to the world’s highest peak from the iconic North side.
Our strength lies in an exceptional team of experienced expedition leaders and a loyal group of highly skilled Sherpas, many of whom have climbed Everest multiple times - some well into double digits. This depth of experience allows us to safely and efficiently support both small and larger groups, ensuring every climber receives the highest level of care and expertise from base camp to summit.
Costs & Services
Full Service Membership
Your membership includes:
- All organization to join our expedition
- Arnold Coster as expert leader
- All permits, charges, and levies payable to the Chinese Government to climb Mount Everest
- NMA permit to climb Mera Peak, all related fees.
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Kathmandu ****hotel: upto 6 nights stay in a single B/B
- Helicopter flights for group transfer (Kathmandu-Lukla, Khote-Lukla-Kathmandu) for Mera Climb
- Mera Peak Trek accommodation and food:
- lodges / tea houses (sharing) with full board (B/L/D):
- Tea, coffee and hot water at accommodation
- Hygienic foods served throughout the entire trek. - Support on Mera Peak:
- High Camp Tents (sharing) and food
- Technical group gear for the climb and training
- Expedition leadership, 1 climbing sherpa per 2 members - Flight Kathmandu - Lhasa:
- 15kg baggage allowance an additional cost for the Lhasa entry
- All your excess baggage (upto 100kg without surcharge) we can send "overland" with our staff from Kathmandu - Lhasa to Everest Base Camp:
- Cultural program in Lhasa and Shigatse
- Transport in small vans,
- CMA accommondation & Full Board (twin/double sharing) - Everest (Tibet) Base Camp Logistics:
- All trucks, jeeps, yaks, and base camp workers for our logistical setup
- Dining tent with tables and chairs, kitchen tent, toilet, and shower tent - both for members and staff
- Comfortable box tent with a mattress and pillow for your personal accommodation.
- Skillful kitchen team: Three (3) meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided.
- Drinks, including tea, coffee, juice, and soft drinks, will be provided. - Yak transport of personal equipment (max. 25kg - overweight possible at extra costs) to Advanced Base Bamp (ACB) and back.
- Everest ABC Logistics:
- Dining tent with tables and chairs, kitchen tent, toilet, and shower tent - both for members and staff
- Expedition tent with a mattress and pillow for your personal accommodation.
- Skillful kitchen team: Three (3) meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided.
- Drinks, including tea, coffee, juice, and soft drinks, will be provided. - Medical kit: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- VHF-radios for members and staff
- SAT-phone: Satellite phone for emergencies, carried by the Leader; available to members at a charge.
- Rope fixing and related charges: The team of experienced Sherpas from CMA / TMA (including our Sherpa) will fix the route in Everest.
- All high camp equipment for 3 camps:
- high quality tents (shared 2-3 members per tent)
- stoves and gas, pots, supplement high camp food
- setup and cooking supported by Sherpa-Team - Transportation and setting up of the camps by the Sherpas (subject to weather conditions)
- Climbing Sherpa support on the mountain (one Sherpa per member):
- Acclimatization: Sherpas assist with high camp setup and route preparation (fixing).
- Summit push: One Sherpa accompanies each member. - Oxygen (6 × 4 L) and TopOut or Summit oxygen mask:
- mask & regulator (rental)
- up to 6 bottles for your personal use - Oxygen (4 × 4 L) mask & regulator for each Sherpa
- Group transport from Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu
Premium Package with Felix
Expedition Leadership: Felix Berg
- Internationally experienced expedition leader and high-altitude mountaineer
- Min / Max: 3 participants
- Package for two participants or 1:1 possible at an additional cost
Sherpa 1:1 Climbing Guide:
- Personal Sherpa guide throughout the entire expedition
- Includes salary and all expenses (excluding summit bonus/tips)
This Everest expedition, led by Felix Berg, offers a professionally guided ascent via the North Side in Tibet, with careful acclimatization, high-quality infrastructure, and experienced risk management for a safe and successful summit. Our climbing group (you, up to 2 other participants, 3 guide Sherpas, and Felix) also benefits from:
- Route: Ascent via the North Side in Tibet – scenic, technically demanding, and logistically well-structured.
- Acclimatization: Progressive plan including Mera Peak Trek & Climb, arrival via Lhasa, and ascent along the established camp chain.
- Base Camp Infrastructure: Comfortable BC and ABC with kitchen, heated dining tent, radio communication, and basic medical support.
- Individual Tents: Spacious and comfortable at BC; high-quality expedition tents at ABC, each equipped with mats and pillows.
- Camp Chain Setup: Camps along the North route (C1–C3) are prepared for optimal acclimatization.
- Safety: Focus on comprehensive risk management, modern altitude medicine, clear decision-making strategies, and continuous weather monitoring.
- Weather Strategy: Summit attempt timed for the best possible weather window based on professional meteorological forecasts.
All services included in the “Full-Service Package” are also included in the Premium Package.
- International flight (Recommendation: Flexible ticket)
- Personal equipment for climbing
- Private expenses (e.g. phone calls, alcoholic beverages, dining out, gifts)
- Costs for rebookings, changes to travel plans (e.g. individual return from base camp)
- Filming Permits (Camera, Drone)
- Insurance:
- Mandatory: Health and accident insurance with emergency service
- Recommended: Trip cancellation insurance, travel interruption insurance, baggage insurance
- Visa for Nepal (90 days): approx. USD 125
- Visa for China/Tibet: approx. USD 250 for EU citizens
- Tips and summit bonus:
- Group Tips min. US$ 400
- Summit Bonus for your personal Sherpa: US$ 1,800.-
