Everest North - Ascent from Tibet / China

Arrival in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, where our expedition team meets.

• Day 1: Arrival in Nepal, Kathmandu
• Day 2: Final preparations, equipment purchases, permit and visa formalities are completed while we enjoy the flair of Kathmandu.
• Day 3: Collection of the visa for China (Tibet), preparation for departure

On request, we can organize your expedition with a flight from Europe.

The journey to Everest base camp (approximately 5100m) is conveniently possible by vehicle (from Kathmandu, optionally also via Lhasa). Due to the rapid ascent to high altitudes, it is important to monitor the acclimatization process. We plan a swift journey to the Mount Everest Base Camp with an extra day at the critical altitude levels: 

• Day 4: Drive from Kathmandu through the Langtang Mountains via Dhunche and Syapru Besi to the Tibetan border (approximately 2500m). 
• Days 5 and 6: We continue for a short distance by bus until we reach Gyrikong (2700m). Here, we spend the next two nights for acclimatization (accommodation in a comfortable hotel). For leisure and acclimatization, we can take a hike up to an altitude of about 4500m. 
• Days 7 and 8: We continue along the Gyrikong Zangbo River, then east over a 5000m high pass into the plateau near Tingri (4340m), where we spend another two days acclimatizing, with clear weather offering views of Mount Everest and the central Himalayas. 

Travel to China (Tibet) is subject to governmental authority, not least the Chinese permit for climbing. If we need to wait a few days for this reason, we can acclimatize in the Langtang area and then travel directly to the base camp.

The gentle ascent along the Rongbuk Glacier leads to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at an altitude of 6300m, which is the actual starting point for the climb and the highest base camp in the world.

Approximately a hiking distance of 25km from the 1st Base Camp, the Advanced Base Camp is a second base camp complete with a kitchen, dining tent, and equipment tent.

• On our way there, we will establish a temporary camp at 5700m, which is essential at the beginning for acclimatization and to conserve energy. 
• The hike to ABC is challenging, following a glacial moraine. It takes about 8-10 hours if you are well-acclimatized. 
• Distance: approx 25km, with an ascent of about 1500m and a descent of 300m (moraine terrain).

We are planning for at least 10 days for further acclimatization. During this time, our supply chain will be set up by our Sherpas. Each participant's personal goal should be to spend at least one night at the North Saddle (7050m) and to reach an altitude of 7500m (Camp 2). We will undertake these stage goals in smaller groups based on individual well-being:

• ABC (6300m) to Camp 1 (7050m) Everest Tibet North Col
• Camp 1 (7050m) to Camp 2 (7500m) Everest North Ridge Camp

ABC to the North Saddle, the first camp at 7050m: At an altitude of 6500m, a wide but crevasse-free glacier leads to a 300m high ice and snow slope facing east. This slope averages 45 degrees steep with small steep sections leading to the North Saddle, which is situated between the 7550m high Changtse and the 8000m high pinnacles of Everest. Here we establish the first high camp. Ascent in 3-6 hours / descent in 2-4 hours. 

North Ridge, from Camp 1 to Camp 2 at 7500m: The North Ridge, characterized by up to 40-degree steep snow and firn ridges, shapes the next section of the route up to 7500m. There, we set up our tents as wind-protected as possible in the rocky terrain. Camp 2 is very exposed and susceptible to wind. Ascent in 4-7 hours / descent in 2-3 hours.

Before the summit push, we need to rest: 

• We need 1 day to trek down from ABC to BC.
• We recommend going down to the lower-lying Shigar/New Tingri (about 4400m) or even to Zhangmu (2400m), where we can rest for at least 2 days and explore Tibet.
•  Having rested, we return to ABC (6300m) in one day for the appropriate summit window (weather-dependent, especially we need low winds for the summit attempt).
  

We have a full 20 days to climb Mount Everest. This is enough time to wait for the appropriate weather or possibly even for a second summit attempt. It may also be that we need the time for your acclimatization or for recovery. In any case, the timeframe is generously set. If you happen to reach the summit earlier, we can organize an earlier return. 

To the summit of the world: the ascent to the summit itself takes only 4 days from ABC along the established camp chain (on the 4th day, we hopefully shout "Summit!") and we will be back at ABC by the 5th day at the latest.

The summit route to Mount Everest from Tibet ABC:

• Distance: ABC (6,300m) -> Camp 1 (7,050m) -> Camp 2 (7,500m) -> Camp 3 (8,300m) -> SUMMIT (8,849m)
• Times (ascent): Daily stages of about 4-6 hours (Camp to Camp) and on summit day 8-12 hours.
• The descent from the summit back to ABC is possible (about 6-8 hours). 

To Camp 3 (Summit Camp): we already know the route until Camp 2. From there, we follow the rocky, snow-dusted North Ridge. At about 7900m, the rocky North Ridge leads to a small plateau (alternative camp, especially for ascents without supplemental oxygen), from there we continue over snowfields (about 40°) first upwards and then to the right into the North Face. In the middle of the North flank, on a small snowfield at nearly 8300m, there are spots for tents. So far, the ascent has been relatively unproblematic technically, only interrupted in places by block climbing and steep terrain of 45 degrees.

From Camp 3 to the summit: departure is recommended shortly after midnight. After a short ascent, we reach the Yellow Band with block terrain (UIAA 1/2). We climb to the Northeast Ridge at about 8500m over steep, combined terrain of 40 degrees. Following this ridge leads us towards the summit. You must climb over the first step (15m high, UIAA 2/3), then cross to the second step (about 8650m) over delicate and exposed ledges, overcoming this with a short rock section (UIAA 3) and a ladder. Flat terrain leads to the third step, which is not difficult (UIAA 1/2) and leads to a 45-degree steep snowfield. We cross this to the right and over crumbling rock to the summit structure, along a snow ridge to reach the highest point.

The descent: your full concentration is required; the descent over the steep steps must be done in a controlled and safe manner (rappelling).

On our way back, we retrace the route we took when we arrived.

In one day, we walk from ABC to the base camp and pack it up. The journey to Kathmandu takes 2 days. There, we have an extra day before the flight home, where we can say goodbye to the group and celebrate our adventure on Everest.