Overview
Muztagh Ata, with its 7,509 meters of height, it towers above the surrounding desert-like plateau by almost 4,000 meters. It is covered by impressive, mighty glaciers and for the Uyghurs leaving in the surrounding area, the name "Muz Tagh Ata" means "the father of the icebergs". Its flat slopes are ideal for ski mountaineering and snowshoeing (an ascent with skis or snowshoes). Despite the altitude of over 7,500 meters, there are hardly any technical difficulties or objective dangers. A journey along the former Silk Road from Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) via Kashgar (China) frames this expedition so that we can look forward to many beautiful experiences besides the summit challenge. Whether you wish to climb it as a "starting mountain" for high-altitude mountaineering or you simply wish to discover its beauty, we are the experienced and reliable partner for you on Muztagh Ata.
Muztagh Ata Expedition
Muztagh Ata, also known as Mustagh Ata, Mouztagh-ata, or Muz Tagh Ata, is situated in the eastern part of the Pamir Mountains, about 150 km southwest of Kashgar in the western region of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, China. Alongside Pik Ismoil Somoni (also known as Peak Communism), Pik Lenin, and Kongur, Muztagh Ata stands as one of the iconic peaks of the Pamir range.
Your arrival is possible via Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan), Islamabad (Pakistan) or China (Kashgar). Coming from Europe, we preferably choose our arrival via Kyrgyzstan with a flight to Bishkek and a short acclimatization trip in through scentic Kyrgyz mountains before reaching China, where we easily can meet members arriving at Kashgar and continue to the majestic Muztagh Ata. The entire expedition is designed to last 28 days, starting from/to Europe, or 22 days from/to Kashgar. This well-planned itinerary ensures a memorable and safe climbing experience.
One easy 7.500 peak?
While no 7000m climb can be considered truly "easy," Muztagh Ata stands out as one of the most accessible 7500m peaks in the world. The journey to base camp can be made by vehicle, and the ascent itself is relatively straightforward, with few technical challenges and gentle slopes that minimize the risk of avalanches. This makes Muztagh Ata a popular choice for climbers seeking a high-altitude experience, including those preparing for Mount Everest. Its slopes are also ideal for ski touring above 7000m and offer an exhilarating descent of over 3000 vertical meters under the right conditions.
Muztagh Ata is one of the most frequently climbed 7000m peaks, second only to Pik Lenin (7134m) in Kyrgyzstan. At 7509m, it presents a significant challenge, particularly due to its size and the expansive summit area, which can make navigation difficult, especially in adverse weather conditions. However, compared to other peaks of similar height, Muztagh Ata is renowned for its technical ease and logistical accessibility, making it a favored destination for climbers worldwide.
Trip Itinerary Muztagh-Ata (28 Days)
Departure from Europe.
Arrival in Bishkek, reserve day (sorting out luggage, organisation).
Drive from Bishkek to Tash Rabat at 3,100 m (10,170 ft).
Acclimatization around Tash Rabat - hike up to 4,000 m (13,125 ft).
Drive over the Torugart Pass to Kashgar (Kaxgar) at 1,280m (4,200 ft).
Drive from Kashgar to Subashi at 3,600 m (11,810 ft).
Loading camels, hike to the base camp at 4,400 m (14,425 ft).
Rest day in the base camp at 4,400m (14,425 ft).
To camp 1 at 5,400 m (17,720 ft) and back to base camp at 4,400m (14,425 ft)
To camp 1 and overnight stay in camp 1 at 5,400 m (17,720 ft).
Explore the route to Camp 2 at 6,100 m (20,000 ft) and back to base camp.
Rest day in the base camp.
To camp 1 and overnight stay.
To camp 2 and overnight stay at 6,100m (20,000 ft).
Explore to camp 3 around 6,700 m (22,000 ft) and back to base camp.
Rest day in the base camp.
To camp 1, overnight stay at 5,400 m (17,720 ft).
To camp 2, overnight stay at 6,100m (20,000 ft).
Ascent of the summit or to camp 3, overnight stay at 6,700 m (22,000 ft).
Ascent of Muztagh Ata - 7,509 m (24,635 ft) - Summit!
Descent to base camp and dismantling/packing.
Reserve days.
Drive to Kashgar, farewell party.
Departure Kashgar, drive over Torugart Pass to Bishkek.
Reserve day in Bishkek.
Return flight and arrival at home.
Prepare
We will prepare you well for this expedition: After registration, you will receive a briefing, and we will conduct preparatory events in the Alps (not mandatory, but recommended). Although to climb Muztagh Ata is technically very easy, at 7,500 meters it presents a real high-altitude challenge, and you should be in good physical condition.
Visa: It is important to note that a regular entry visa for China is not sufficient for a trip to the Xinjiang Autonomous Region for mountaineering. The visa should only be obtained after registration through the process specified by us.
Zum Muztagh Ata
✪ Ski: Für konditionell starke Skitourengänger eignet sich diese Expedition als Einstieg ins Höhenbergsteigen oder einfach, um 3000m-Abfahrt von 7500m auf 4500m zu erleben.
✪ Bergsteigern ohne Skitourenerfahrung empfehlen wir die Teilnahme mit Schneeschuhen, meist haben wir auch eine geführte Subgruppe ohne Ski dabei.
Temperaturen
✪ nachts/morgens mit bis - 25°C
✪ mit Wind-Chill-Faktor bis - 45°C
Ausrüstung
✪ Skitouren-Material: Leichtere Tourenski, Felle und Harscheisen und warme/extra isolierte Skitourenschuhe werden benötigt. Aufgrund der flachen Hänge können wir auf LVS-Gerät verzichten.
✪ Alternativ: Warme Bergschuhe und Schneeschuhe. Letztere können von uns (rechtzeitig anfragen) ausgeliehen werden.
Downloads
High Altitude Expedition
This expedition is associated with subjective dangers (high-altitude sickness, climbing mistakes, etc.) and objective dangers (avalanches, crevasse fall, weather events, etc.). Even though we try to conduct the tour as safely as possible with all our experience, we cannot guarantee your safety. A high degree of personal responsibility and risk awareness is necessary. Your participation in our expedition is at your own risk and responsibility.
Participation requirements
Our ascent is carried out in independent, self-reliant rope teams under the supervision of the expedition leader. If possible, the expedition leader accompanies the team to the summit, but no guiding activity takes place. Participants must be independent alpinists who have a good understanding of glacier mountaineering. An above-average level of fitness is necessary for the ascent. Knowledge of the symptoms and treatment of altitude sickness and frostbite should be known to avoid this danger. All participants must be able to work well together as a team. Experience in mountaineering/trekking around 6000m altitude should be brought along.
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Ski ascent of Muztagh Ata
Technical requirements: Solid skiing skills and experience in alpine ski tours are required. Slopes up to max. 30° steepness. The basic techniques of crevasse rescue should be known. The latter can be refreshed during the acclimatization phase.
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Snowshoe ascent of Muztagh Ata
Technical requirements: experience of walking in the terrain and experience of high-altitude tours are required. The basic techniques of crevasse rescue should be known. The latter can be refreshed during the acclimatization phase.
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Physical requirements
Physical condition for an ascent of at least 800+ meters / 3000 feet+ and a duration of up to 10h with skis or snowshoes at an altitude of 7000m. Condition and stamina for the long descent.
Q&A about Muztagh Ata
Every year we organise our Muztagh Ata expedition on three different dates. The earlierst date (beginning / mid of June) is more suitable for ski ascents due to larger amounts of snow from winter (= better downhill!). The second date (end of June to mid-July) generally brings more stable weather and higher temperatures and is usually still suitable for ski ascents. In the third date it is preferable to ascend with snowshoes.
There are no reliable long-term weather forecasts, and while average precipitation is slightly lower in June and August compared to July, generally, storms (jet stream-related at 7000m) are somewhat more frequent in June than in July. Climbing earlier in the season can result in challenging route-finding and deep snow, hence this also allows for better skiing and longer ski descents. The longest days are in June and early July, with nearly 15 hours of daylight.
From the end of July to early August, one can expect icier surfaces (due to melted or sublimated snow) and open crevasses to appear. An even later in the season may bring fresh, deep snow or icy slopes, with larger crevasses presenting additional obstacles. Therefore, we do not offer expeditions to Muztagh Ata after mid-August and would instead recommend one of our expeditions in Pakistan, the western Pamir, or the northern Tien Shan.
Since our first expeditions to Muztagh Ata in the 1990s until 2019, the mountain was open to foreign climbers every year. Starting in 2020, with the onset of the Corona pandemic, China closed access and only reopened it late on January 8, 2023, for foreigners. However, tourist visas and permits for climbing in Xinjiang were not guaranteed in 2023 and were only issued very last-minute in 2024 for tourism, but without official permission to climb. For 2025, things are looking more positive following the gradual reopenings in 2024 for Tibet and Xinjiang, and we believe the permits will be approved in time. If there are any last-minute changes (which unfortunately can never be ruled out in China's "autonomous regions"), we have many beautiful alternatives with our route via Kyrgyzstan: ski tours, some alternative 7000-meter peaks, and many interesting high 6000-meter peaks.
Testimonials
20 years of experience: We have been carrying out this expedition regularly for over 20 years, with a very high rate of success that distinguishes our organization. In 2019 all three expeditions were successful and a total of 15 participants stood on the summit of Muztagh Ata and although in 2018 all three expeditions with a total of 11 members were successful. In 2017, IVBV mountain guide Dominik Franz stood on the highest point of Muztagh Ata with 7 out of 13 participants. In 2015 10 of 13 participants reached Muztagh Ata summit together with Felix Berg. In 2014, 7 out of 9 participants reached the summit, together with IVBV mountain guide Julian Beermann. You can rely on our professional organization with high chances of reaching the summit.
Costs & Services
Basic Package
Included:
- Climbing permit
- Liaison Officer und and fees of the Ministry of Tourism
- Invitation for the Chinese visa
- 2 nights in a ***hotel (B&B) in Kashgar
- Transfers according to the plan from Kashgar to the base camp and back
- Transfer Subashi - base camp - Subashi of your personal luggage up to 40kg
- Comfortable single tent per participant
- Dining tent (Yurt or Dome), kitchen tent and material tent
- Catering by experienced Chinese kitchen team
- Full board in BC
- Satellite phone and Internet in BC
- Solar power system (during the day)
- Generator (evening)
- Extensive emergency medical kits, pulse oximeter
- Medical oxygen at base camp
- Assistance in case of emergency throughout the entire expedition
Full Service
Additional to all Basic Package services included are:
1. Arrival via Kyrgyzstan:
- Economy scheduled flights to Bischek (FRU) from Europe with Turkish Airlines or Aeroflot (expedition without flight or flight upgrades possible on request):
- free baggage allowance of 23kg plus sport baggage (ski) and hand baggage
- from various European airports - Airport transfers in Bishkek
- 3 nights in a ****hotel (B&B) in Bishkek
- Transfers from Bishkek to Kashgar and back
- Accommodation and full board during the trip from Bishkek to Kashgar and back
- Cultural program and hikes around Tash Rabat
- 2 x overnight stays in yurts in Tasch Rabat, full board
2. High-camp service & Muztagh Ata ascent:
- Management and organization by the expedition leader
- High-camp tents with transport and assembly: 3 camps on Muztagh Ata
- High-camp material: MSR stoves, pots and gas, catering
- Fixed ropes, group ropes, fixing material and trail markers (wands)
- 10 Watt UHF/VHF radios
- High-altitude porters / mountain guides including their insurance, equipment, fees
- Support by the expedition leader during the summit ascent
- Professional weather report
- Personal Equipment
- Expenses of a personal nature (such as phone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
- Visa for China (must be obtained after registration with a specific invitation)
- Meals at noon and in the evening in Bishkek and Kashgar
- Travel insurance (cancellation, luggage, illness, accident)
- Gratitudes (approx. USD 200 is reasonable)
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