Overview
Nanga Parbat is an extraordinary mountain. Meaning "the naked beauty", it represents the quintessence of mountaineering. We will climb the challenging Rupal Face, the highest face in the world at over 4000 meters. You are invited as an experienced high-altitude mountaineer to apply for our international team.
Expedition leaders
Itinerary Nanga Parbat - the "naked" 8000m Peak
Trip Itinerary Nanga Parbat (35 Days)
arrival and transfer to hotel. Day for organization and preparation. Welcome-team-dinner.
We drive via KKH (Karakorum Highway) to Chilas.
We turn off at Thalichi to the east and circumnavigate Nanga Parbat to the east-facing village of Tarashing.
trekking over or along the Chongra glacier to the village of Rupal in the valley of the same name, about 4-6h.
ascend to Biji or Tap alpine pasture (about 3400m), about 2-3h. Set up and organization of the base camp
organization and preparation.
ascent towards Mazeno pass.
ascent Toshe Peak (6300m)
ascent Toshe Peak (6300m)
rest day
Ascent along Bazlin and Menge glaciers to the base of the wall, exploration of the south face.
Evaluation of the south face, climb and sleep at an ABC/Camp I, depot
transport of material, exploration of the route
Further exploration of the route and descent.
descent to well-deserved rest.
rest day
rest day
reserve days for preparation
ascent to the previous depot in the wall
We will probably need two more camps to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat.
Ascent to bivouac
Ideally we will reach the summit on the 4th day of the summit walk! - Descent to Camp III/IV
descent to the base camp
in total, we plan with max. 6 days of food and 8 days of gas for the summit walk.
Another 4 reserve days for the summit walk.
Packing and departure.
Civilization (almost) - Drive to Chilas
Long drive to the capital of Pakistan
reserve day, Alpine Club of Pakistan, farewell party.
Departure from Islamabad.
Prepare
Participation requirements
Requirements: You need to be a team player and an experienced high-altitude climber with an excellent climbing background. Ideally, you have already climbed 8000m+ and can handle the altitude well. Excellent alpine skills and experience from climbing 7000m+ altitude independently must be brought along.
Technical Requirements: Independent climbing of alpine tours, min. TD according to the French scale. Safe climbing up to at least 80° in ice and UIAA 5+ / M5 in alpine rock. Excellent belaying skills. Rope-free climbing up to 60° in ice and in combined terrain (M3 / UIAA 3 in rock) will be needed. You need to be experienced in the organization of bivouacs and high camp setups in winter conditions.
Physical requirements: You should have the fitness for 800 to 1200 meters* of ascent (at 7000m-8000m, at an alpine level this certainly means around 3000 Hm+) and endurance for several days of difficult mountaineering, with daily ascents of 12-18 hours. Your assistance in setting up camp** (backpack - about 16-20 kg*) requires physical robustness.
Danger notice: You participate in this expedition independently and at your own risk. The extreme altitude and the great cold inevitably bring dangers. Because of the high altitude, rescue possibilities are extremely limited.
Testimonials
Costs & Services
We organize our Nanga Parbat expedition as a team with (desired / ideally) 4-6 participants. When participating at the basic price, we expect your contribution to the high camp equipment, possibly through your sponsors, and the cost of the international flight is not included. Full service participation includes a small contribution to invite 1-2 professional mountaineers. The Nanga Parbat ascent via the Rupal Face is extremely demanding (see requirements). If you have not been explicitly invited, please send us your request with a tour report and a few sentences about your motivation. Join us on this unique adventure!
Full Service Package
- SummitClimb expedition leadership
- Organization of the expedition
- Preparation meeting in the alps /Â Europe
- 3 nights in a comfortable ***hotel in Islamabad in double room / breakfast
- Permit to Nanga Parbat climb (full rate after increase 2023)
- Fees of the Ministry of Tourism
- Transfers according to the program incl. 40 kg personal luggage
- Trekking to base camp incl. 40kg personal luggage
- Trekking with double accommodation in tents
- Accommodation and full board when traveling from Islamabad to base camp
- All BC equipment:
- Stay & food tent (Hilleberg Atlas).
- Kitchen tent, material tent
- toilet tent
- Sleeping tent: single tent per participant - Catering by an experienced Pakistani kitchen crewÂ
- Full board at base camp: three hot meals, snacks
- Boiled and filtered water at base camp
- Solar power system with battery, generatir at base camp
- Satellite phone (use for a fee)
- Extensive emergency first aid kit + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen
- UHF/VHF radios (5 watts) per 2 participants
Full Service
Full service additionally includes:
- Support from SummitClimb expedition leader during the ascent*
- Support fee for additional professional mountaineers in the team*
- All high-camp equipment
- Special tents per 2-3 participants
- High camp stove and gas
- EliteClimb shovel per 2-3 participants
- Special high camp food - Climbing material: rack (friends, wedges, etc.), hooks, ice screws, snow anchors
- Climbing ropes approx. 8mm
- Fixed ropes (5mm - 9mm, rappelling, etc.)
- International flight to/from Pakistan (can be arranged at an additional cost)
- Visa for Pakistan (E-Visa, approx. USD 51, an invitation will be sent)
- Personal equipment and expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
- Lunch and dinner in Islamabad
- Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
- Gratitudes (approx. USD 200 is reasonable)
