Overview
Pamir expedition: These mountains offer you either an "easy" 7000m expedition or a challenging 7000m double expedition. Two of the five snow leopards, as the 7000m mountains of the former Soviet Union are called, can be climbed in the Pamir of Tajikistan. This country with adventurous character, the logistically complex journey and the wild mountains belong to the challenges, but also make the charm of this expedition.
Expedition leaders
Pamir 2x7k Expedition
This double expedition allows you to participate in a highly demanding 7,000m challenge using alpine ascent tactics. Flexible timing on the mountain will be crucial, along with the necessary calm and patience to wait for the right conditions for the summit push. With 31 days, the timeframe for a 7,000m ascent is generous, but to succeed on both mountains, you must have strong endurance and favorable external conditions, including weather, helicopter availability, route conditions, and good health/fitness.
Trip Itinerary Pamir (31 Days)
You are well prepared and on your way to Tajikistan.
Latest day of arrival to Dushanbe.
drive from Dushanbe to Dirgital, very basic accommodation - overnight/day.
Flight by helicopter to Moskvina base camp (4,200m / 13,780 ft). From this day on we will camp, have meals in the common room.
Helicopter - Important note: There is only one monopoly provider for helicopter transfers, which in turn depends on support from the government of Tajikistan. There may be delays for days. Please be advised of the risk of delay and change in itinerary. The residual risk for expedition planning and delay lies with the participants.
Ascent along the Korzhenevskaya camp chain: Camp 1 (5,300m / 17,388 ft) and Camp 2 (5,700m / 18,700 ft), possibly ascent of Chetiriokh (6,300m / 20,670 ft) in 2-3 days from base camp, then rest days at base camp.
Ideally (weather, no delays provided) the ascent can start after that.
Ascent to Camp 1 at 5,300m / 17,388 ft
Ascent to Camp 2 at 5,700m / 18,700 ft
Ascent to Camp 3 at 6,300m / 20,670 ft
Along the partly exposed ridge we climb to summit. Descent to camp 2 or camp 1.
Early in the morning we leave to avoid possible ice and rock fall as much as possible during the descent (danger spot below Camp 1 at the glacier tongue).
At Moskvina base camp there is even a sauna. It is time to rest properly.
Preparation. Hike - just under 2 hours - to ABC on the edge of the glacier.
Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m).
Ascent to the edge of the big Pamir plateau (6200m) and descent to Camp 2 (5900m)
Ascent to Camp 3 (6800m) below Dushanbe Peak.
We climb over Dushanbe Peak (6900m) to the summit slope, 50° steep. From an embrasure a ridge leads the last meters to the summit. Descent to Camp 2.
Counter ascent to the plateau edge and descent to ABC, from there to base camp.
Another 5 contingency days for bad weather or other delays.
Helicopter flight Dirgital and drive to Dushanbe, hotel (B&B)
Free day in the capital of Tajikistan, hotel (B&B).
Transfer to the airport in Duschanbe, flight home.
Prepare
In the Academia Nauk mountain range, Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) and Pik Kommunismus (7,495 m) are just 13 km apart in a straight line. From the Moskvina base camp, we are planning the ascent(s) with a strong and well-structured expedition team.
Allgemein
✪ Pamir: abgelegen und abenteuerlich
Temperaturen
✪ mit Wind-Chill-Faktor bis - 40°C
Ausrüstung & Dokumente
✪ Visum: Seit Anfang 2022 gewährt Tadschikistan deutschen, EU- und CH-Staatsangehörigen für Aufenthalte bis zu 30 Tagen eine visumfreie Einreise.
Durchführung: Helikopter & Gefahren am Berg
Danger notice: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. Altitude and cold bring extreme subjective dangers (due to the lack of oxygen increased: technical errors, misjudgments) and objective dangers (weather falls, cold, etc.). Due to the remoteness and altitude, rescue options are extremely limited.
Note - Dangerous Route(s):
- There are unavoidable objective hazards on both mountains. Avalanches and icefall (seracs) are a hazard on the route to Camp 1 at Peak Communism. An unstable glacier (serac) and rockfall can occur on Korzhenevskaya below / resp. above Camp 1.
- Comparison: Basically, there are objective dangers on all expeditions and we try to minimize them by choosing the route and ascent time. Climbing other 7000m mountains in the SummitClimb-program such as Baruntse (7168m), Pik Lenin (7134m) and Lakpa Ri (7045m - under Trekking) are associated with much less objective dangers.
Participation requirements
The ascent is carried out in independent self-reliant rope teams under the guidance of the expedition leader (in case of less than 6 participants of the Russian and English-speaking mountain guide). To participate it is necessary to act independently in alpine terrain and camping in winter conditions.
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General assessment
Each mountain on its own is already a challenging objective. Korzhenevskaya is a good entry-level 7000er for adventurous climbers, as it is technically and physically quite manageable. At the nearly 7500 m high Pik Kommunismus, you should expect less support than on typical eight-thousanders (such as Cho Oyu, Manaslu, or G2) – does that make it more challenging than the 8000 m+ peaks? One thing is for sure: its ascent is a major challenge.
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Korzhenevskaya
Technical requirements: Safe walking on crampons up to 50° (also rope-free) and experience camping in winter conditions is necessary. You should have an understanding of glacier rescue and altitude sickness should be brought.
Endurance: A very good physical condition is necessary.
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Ismoil Somoni (Communism) Peak
Technical requirements: The most exposed and steep parts will be secured with fixed ropes by the expedition leader and a Russian mountain guide, nevertheless absolutely safe climbing is necessary even on the frontal peaks in shorter passages steep up to more than 50°. Also, combined terrain up to the 3rd UIAA difficulty level should be safely mastered.
Excellent endurance is necessary for the ascent and descent, especially if you want to climb both 7000m-peaks within this one expedition.
Testimonials
Pamir - experience: We are the only provider in Western Europe with years of experience in carrying out this expedition. Our "CEO" Felix Berg, summited the two "Snow Leopards" - Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m above sea level) and Pik Kommunismus (7,495 m above sea level) - in 2015. We had already achieved successful ascents beforehand and returned with further expeditions to these Pamir mountains in 2016, 2017, and most recently in 2024. Tajikistan is a very straightforward yet adventurous country, so you should be prepared for that on this expedition. The schedule, including the helicopter transfer to base camp, is generally delayed. There, you'll also encounter some eccentric characters: elderly Russians with outdated equipment, wild Iranian mountaineering groups, and even exceptionally fit professional climbers.
Costs & Services
Doubleheader 7-k-peaks
- Organization of the entire expedition
- SummitClimb expedition leader:
- min. 6 to max. 12 members: international highly experienced guide
- min. 2 participants with local mountain guide, English / Russian speaking - Transfers from Dushanbe according to program incl. helicopter flight
- Personal luggage limit 20kg (helicopter flight)
- 3 nights in a ***standard hotel in Dushanbe in double room/F.
- Environmental fees and handling of climbing permit.
- Base camp manager of Pamir Peaks (local agency)
- Base camp with stationary buildings: lounge, toilets, shower and sauna.
- Emergency service at base camp
- Customs clearance if necessary (at extra costs)
- Catering by kitchen crew (10 days): 3 meals/day at base camp
- Cabin at base camp (shared) or tent
- High camp service, base camp plus:
- Guidance by experienced SUMMITCLIMB leader/guide on the mountain
- Russian mountain guides including their insurance, equipment, fees: 1 guide per 3-4 members
- All high camp equipment: tents, stoves and pots, gas, ropes and fixation material, special rations, and additional food, radios
- support for tent pitching (no high camp porters) - Transfer of the group equipment to the base camp
- Communication to base camp and rescue team (radio fee included)
- Satellite phone and email in BC (chargeable), solar power system
- Professional weather report
- Extensive emergency pharmacy + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen
Only One
- Organization of the expedition for only one of the 7000m-peaks (21 days, plus reserve)
- SummitClimb expedition leader:
- min. 6 to max. 12 members: international highly experienced guide
- min. 2 participants with local mountain guide, English / Russian speaking - Transfers from Dushanbe according to program incl. helicopter flight
- Personal luggage limit 20kg (helicopter flight)
- 3 nights in a ***standard hotel in Dushanbe in double room/F.
- Environmental fees and handling of climbing permit.
- Base camp manager of Pamir Peaks (local agency)
- Base camp with stationary buildings: lounge, toilets, shower and sauna.
- Emergency service at base camp
- Customs clearance if necessary (at extra costs)
- Catering by kitchen crew: 3 meals/day at base camp
- Cabin at base camp (shared) or tent
- High camp service, base camp plus:
- Guidance by experienced SUMMITCLIMB leader/guide on the mountain
- Russian mountain guides including their insurance, equipment, fees: 1 guide per 3-4 members
- All high camp equipment: tents, stoves and pots, gas, ropes and fixation material, special rations, and additional food, radios
- support for tent pitching (no high camp porters) - Transfer of the group equipment to the base camp
- Communication to base camp and rescue team (radio fee included)
- Satellite phone and email in BC (chargeable), solar power system
- Professional weather report
- Extensive emergency pharmacy + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen
- International Flights
- Visa costs, if applicable (for most countries upto 30 days for free)
- Personal equipment and expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, tips, etc.)
- lunch/ dinner in Dushanbe
- travel insurance (health and accident, withdrawal, etc.).
