Alpamayo & Huascarán Climb - Perú Expedition

Arrival in Peru, Lima before midday at the latest. Pick-up at the airport in Lima and transfer to the busterminal. We take a comfortable bus and drive along the coast before turning inland to the Cordillera Negra. The 4050 m high Concocha Pass leads to the wonderful valley of the Rio Santa, from where we drive to Huaraz (3050m). We spend the night in a comfortable family hotel, overnight stay/F.

• Drive: approx. 8 hrs. **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

Early in the morning, you wake up - weather permitting - with a fantastic view of the Cordillera Blanca. Acclimatization and the final preparations for the expedition at Huaraz.

• **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

We start early to climb Nevado Mateo, a popular day climb in the Cordillera Blanca. Located near Huaraz, we drive to almost 4,800m / 15,750 ft, then a hike and glacier walk lead to the summit. This day climb offers good prepartion and acclimatization for our more demanding next goals.

• Drive: approx. 2 hrs.
• Ascent: 450m / 1,500 ft in approx. 4 hours (up) / 2 hours (down)
• Summit: 5,150m / 16,900 ft
• **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

Via Yungay and Caraz we drive through the Rio Santa valley accompanied by magnificent scenery. We start the trek in Cashapampa accompanied by donkeys, reach the Llamacorral Camp (3800m).
Drive: approx. 3 hours

• Trek: 9km - ascent: 800 m / 2,600 ft in approx. 4 hours.

Passing the Laguna Jatuncocha, a beautiful mountain lake, we hike towards Taullipampa. This trail is known as part of the Santa Curs Trek. We set up the base camp in the flat valley between Alpamayo and Rinrijirca (4200m).

• Trek: 10km - ascent: 600 m / 2,000 ft descent: 200 m / 650 ft in approx. 6 hrs.

After a comfortable trek to the base camp, we can acclimatize today with a material transport to the moraine, then descend and recovery in base camp.

• Trek: ascent and descent: 600 m / 2,000 ft  in approx. 4 hrs.

Ascend past the moraine onto the glacier to reach and build up high camp.

• Climb: ascent of 900 m / 3,000 ft
• Altitude: 5,300m / 17,400 ft

This rest and reserve day is used for acclimatization, route exploration, it can be used for the summit push if necessary.

We plan to climb via the classic Ferrari route (main difficulty is a 350m long 55° steep snow couloir) or the French route. We climb on fixed ropes with ascenders or in roped teams (for full-service participants: 1 mountain guide per 2 participants). Descent to the high camp.

• Climb: ascent and descent of 800 m / 2,700 ft
• Technical terrain: ice of 55°. Average time: 10 hours
• Summit: 5,947 m / 19,511 ft

Optional ascent of Quitaraju (6,036 m) with difficulties of up to 55° in firn and ice. The ascent is probably only suitable for technically very confident participants without a fixed rope. Descent to Alpamayo base camp.

• Climb:  ascent and descent of : 900 m
• Technical terrain: ice of 55°. Average time: approx. 8-10 hours

Early in the morning, we hike back through the Santa Cruz valley. In the afternoon we drive to Huaraz for a well-deserved celebration dinner.

• ***hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

Rest day/reserve at free disposal in Huaraz: colorful Indio market, shopping, etc... Rest & Eat.

• ***hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

We drive to Mancos, not far from Huaraz, and ascend to the base camp at 4,250m / 14,000 ft.

• Drive approx. 2 hours
• ascent 500 m / 1,640 ft in approx. 2 hours

The view from Huaraz is dominated by the mighty Huascarán. Worldwide the highest mountain in the tropical zone, we can now tackle this big mountain destination. Today we climb over moraines up to 5200m (1st camp).

• ascent 950 m / 3,100 ft in approx. 4 hours

A challenging glacier with crevasses awaits us to climb to the pass between the north and south peaks. There we plan to set up Camp 2 (5850m), the starting camp for the summit ascent. The 90 meters higher south summit (6768m) was often better and safer to reach in the last years so we might prefer it to the north summit. The mountain guides and expedition leader decides with the involvement of the group.

• ascent 650 m / 2,100 ft in approx. 4 hours

Depending on the conditions, the ascent to the north summit (6655 m.a.s.l.) or south summit (6768 m.a.s.l.) over the Gaganta, the neck between the two summits. The team climbs in alpine rope teams of he 3 to 5 rope partners over the glacier and ice ascent. Very strong mountaineers can climb both peaks if necessary. Depending on the remaining time, we spend the night again in camp 2 during the descent or continue descending.

• Climb: ascent of 800 m / 2,800 ft
• Altitude: 6,768 m / 22,205 ft

Trekking to Mancos, drive to Huaraz

• **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

Reserve day (near Huaraz). It remains a day that we can spend in the mountains of the Cordilleras. Cultural visit of the surrounding Inca ruins or small climbing tours on the surrounding rocks. At the request of the group we also travel to the Pacific and spend a relaxing beach day there.

• **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft

Reserve day (Lima). Today we drive to Lima. Ideally, we still have enough time to visit the Peruvian capital, since 1991 UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hotel ÜN/F.

• drive approx. 8h, **hotel BB

The earliest day of departure from Lima