
Overview
The Cordillera Blanca with its steep, charismatic, and white shining mountains is one of the most fascinating ranges in the world. Alpamayo (5,947 m / 19,511 ft), designated by UNESCO as the most beautiful mountain in the world, is one of the great mountaineering aims, technically demanding at a moderate height. Depending on the conditions, its neighbor Quillaraju can also be climbed, before we rest in Huaraz for the final challenge, the highest mountain of Peru: Huascaran, a massively impressive mountain (6,768m / 22,205 ft).
Did we mention yet? - these mountains are just beautiful! We welcome you to join our guided tour, 20 days from/to Lima: Welcome at SummitClimb Perú.
Expedition leaders
Itinerary Alpamayo & Huascarán Climb - Perú Expedition
Alpamayo & Huascarán: The 5,947 meter (19,511 feet) high Alpamayo, UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site, in the north of the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Huascaran, at 6768 meters (22,205 feet), is the highest mountain of Perú. To climb these two mountains forms the center of this expedition to Perú.

Mountaineering in Perú
In 1980, the famous Swiss mountaineer Erhard Loretan – who climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks – began his steep career in high-altitude climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. A little less famous, but deeply personal for you, our founder and expedition leader, Felix Berg, took his first steps into high-altitude mountaineering in Peru in 2000. Climbers will feel right at home with us, "Climbing Together to the Summit," in the Peruvian Andes.
We are flexible in organizing the program, and depending on conditions, we can also climb additional 6,000-meter peaks such as Quillaraju, Artesonraju, or Chopicalqui in the Cordillera Blanca. In just three weeks, we can undertake a variety of exciting mountain tours in the Andes. Extensions or custom arrangements can be added upon request, or personalized adjustments can be made during the trip.

Alpamayo - 5,947 m / 19,511 ft
Alpamayo is named after the nearby village, with the name derived from Quechua: allpa meaning "earth" and mayu meaning "river" – together translating to "earth river." However, its local name in Ancash is different, also in Quechua: shuytu meaning "thin and long, pyramid" and rahu meaning "snow mountain, glacier."
The first ascent of Alpamayo took place on June 19, 1957, by the German climbing team Hauser, Huhn, Knauss, and Weidmann, who ascended via the South Ridge – a route that is now rarely climbed. In recent years, the normal route has followed the French Direct Route, which replaced the earlier Ferrari Route.

Nevado Huascarán – 6,768m / 22,205 ft
Trip Itinerary Alpamayo & Huascarán (20 Days)
Arrival in Peru, Lima before midday at the latest. Pick-up at the airport in Lima and transfer to the busterminal. We take a comfortable bus and drive along the coast before turning inland to the Cordillera Negra. The 4050 m high Concocha Pass leads to the wonderful valley of the Rio Santa, from where we drive to Huaraz (3050m). We spend the night in a comfortable family hotel, overnight stay/F.
- Drive: approx. 8 hrs. **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
Early in the morning, you wake up - weather permitting - with a fantastic view of the Cordillera Blanca. Acclimatization and the final preparations for the expedition at Huaraz.
- **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
We start early to climb Nevado Mateo, a popular day climb in the Cordillera Blanca. Located near Huaraz, we drive to almost 4,800m / 15,750 ft, then a hike and glacier walk lead to the summit. This day climb offers good prepartion and acclimatization for our more demanding next goals.
- Drive: approx. 2 hrs.
- Ascent: 450m / 1,500 ft in approx. 4 hours (up) / 2 hours (down)
- Summit: 5,150m / 16,900 ft
- **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
Via Yungay and Caraz we drive through the Rio Santa valley accompanied by magnificent scenery. We start the trek in Cashapampa accompanied by donkeys, reach the Llamacorral Camp (3800m).
Drive: approx. 3 hours
- Trek: 9km - ascent: 800 m / 2,600 ft in approx. 4 hours.
Passing the Laguna Jatuncocha, a beautiful mountain lake, we hike towards Taullipampa. This trail is known as part of the Santa Curs Trek. We set up the base camp in the flat valley between Alpamayo and Rinrijirca (4200m).
- Trek: 10km - ascent: 600 m / 2,000 ft descent: 200 m / 650 ft in approx. 6 hrs.
After a comfortable trek to the base camp, we can acclimatize today with a material transport to the moraine, then descend and recovery in base camp.
- Trek: ascent and descent: 600 m / 2,000 ft in approx. 4 hrs.
Ascend past the moraine onto the glacier to reach and build up high camp.
- Climb: ascent of 900 m / 3,000 ft
- Altitude: 5,300m / 17,400 ft
This rest and reserve day is used for acclimatization, route exploration, it can be used for the summit push if necessary.
We plan to climb via the classic Ferrari route (main difficulty is a 350m long 55° steep snow couloir) or the French route. We climb on fixed ropes with ascenders or in roped teams (for full-service participants: 1 mountain guide per 2 participants). Descent to the high camp.
- Climb: ascent and descent of 800 m / 2,700 ft
- Technical terrain: ice of 55°. Average time: 10 hours
- Summit: 5,947 m / 19,511 ft
Optional ascent of Quitaraju (6,036 m) with difficulties of up to 55° in firn and ice. The ascent is probably only suitable for technically very confident participants without a fixed rope. Descent to Alpamayo base camp.
- Climb: ascent and descent of : 900 m
- Technical terrain: ice of 55°. Average time: approx. 8-10 hours
Early in the morning, we hike back through the Santa Cruz valley. In the afternoon we drive to Huaraz for a well-deserved celebration dinner.
- ***hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
Rest day/reserve at free disposal in Huaraz: colorful Indio market, shopping, etc... Rest & Eat.
- ***hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
We drive to Mancos, not far from Huaraz, and ascend to the base camp at 4,250m / 14,000 ft.
- Drive approx. 2 hours
- ascent 500 m / 1,640 ft in approx. 2 hours
The view from Huaraz is dominated by the mighty Huascarán. Worldwide the highest mountain in the tropical zone, we can now tackle this big mountain destination. Today we climb over moraines up to 5200m (1st camp).
- ascent 950 m / 3,100 ft in approx. 4 hours
A challenging glacier with crevasses awaits us to climb to the pass between the north and south peaks. There we plan to set up Camp 2 (5850m), the starting camp for the summit ascent. The 90 meters higher south summit (6768m) was often better and safer to reach in the last years so we might prefer it to the north summit. The mountain guides and expedition leader decides with the involvement of the group.
- ascent 650 m / 2,100 ft in approx. 4 hours
Depending on the conditions, the ascent to the north summit (6655 m.a.s.l.) or south summit (6768 m.a.s.l.) over the Gaganta, the neck between the two summits. The team climbs in alpine rope teams of he 3 to 5 rope partners over the glacier and ice ascent. Very strong mountaineers can climb both peaks if necessary. Depending on the remaining time, we spend the night again in camp 2 during the descent or continue descending.
- Climb: ascent of 800 m / 2,800 ft
- Altitude: 6,768 m / 22,205 ft
Trekking to Mancos, drive to Huaraz
- **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
Reserve day (near Huaraz). It remains a day that we can spend in the mountains of the Cordilleras. Cultural visit of the surrounding Inca ruins or small climbing tours on the surrounding rocks. At the request of the group we also travel to the Pacific and spend a relaxing beach day there.
- **hotel BB - altitude: 3,050 m / 10,000 ft
Reserve day (Lima). Today we drive to Lima. Ideally, we still have enough time to visit the Peruvian capital, since 1991 UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hotel ÜN/F.
- drive approx. 8h, **hotel BB
The earliest day of departure from Lima
Prepare
This Peru expedition is ideal as an introduction to high-altitude mountaineering for technically skilled mountaineers, as well as for experienced expedition climbers who want to tackle some of the more challenging peaks in the Andes. Alpamayo & Huascarán ascents: On Alpamayo the Ferrari (ice up to 70° / 8 pitches 45-50°) is less frequently used in recent years. The French direct (ice up to 70° / 10 pitches 50-65°) will probably be chosen as the ascent route. The route to Huascarán follows a complicated glacier route lasting several days (difficulty depending on conditions).
About this Expedition
✪ Ice & Snow
Temperatures:
✪ Alpamayo: Down to -10°C (14°F)
✪ Huascaran: Down to -20°C (-4°F)
✪ With wind chill factor: -20°C (-4°F) /-30°C (-22°F)
Travelling tp Peru
Since May 12, 2023, the regulations and restrictions for entry due to the Covid-19 pandemic have been lifted. There are currently no limitations.
The general political situation has calmed down since the unrests in 2023 that followed the December 2022 presidential elections.
General hygiene precautions and safety instructions should be observed during the trip.
Equipment
✪ SummitClimb provides all high camp equipment and group material: tents, shovels for high-camp construction, stoves, gas cartridges, ropes, etc.
Downloads
Important information about this expedition
You participate at your own responsibility and risk:
- This expedition is associated with objective and subjective risks.
- A high degree of personal responsibility and healthy risk awareness are necessary.
Participation requirements

Testimonials
Since 2000, when Felix Berg was in Perú with an alpine club youth expedition after his high school diploma, we have been climbing and organizing expeditions in Perú. Our SummitClimb expedition leader has undertaken numerous tours in Perú's Cordilleras.

Costs & Services
Perú Expedition - Costs & Services: We guarantee this expedition on fixed dates with our Peruvian AMGA/IVBV-mountain-guide starting from 2 to 7 people (with an 1:2 guide to client ratio on Alpamayo and 1:3 rate on Huasacaran). For groups of 8 to a maximum of 12 participants, a SummitClimb expedition leader takes over the leadership. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements and are convinced, then register online now: You are welcome to join our Peru-Expedition!

Full Service
- SummitClimb guide:
- from 8 participants to max. 12 participants by an international leader
- Guaranteed realization from 2 participants with Peruvian IVBV mountain guide
- on Alpamayo 1:2 ratio, rest of tour 1:3 (guides per guests) - Organization of the expedition from/to Lima
- All transfers according to the program
- 1 x overnight stay in a ***hotel (shared double room or twin) with breakfast in Lima
- 7x overnight stays in **guesthouse (shared double room) with breakfast in Huaraz
- Fees for the Huascarán National Park
- Santa Cruz trekking, donkey support to Alpamayo base camp:
- Check in of personal luggage max. 15 kg
- Personal day luggage - Group material and material transport to base camp
- Dinning tent, cooking tent and kitchen materials at Alpamayo base camp
- Overnight stays in a 2-person tent (single tent on request) at Alpamayo base camp
- Meals (breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner) at Alpamayo base camp
- Coordination / advice for the independent ascent
- UHF/VHF radio per team for the ascent
- Guidance by Peruvian VBV/UIAGM mountain guide and expedition leader:
- at least one mountain guide per 2 guests for the Alpamayo ascent
- at least one mountain guide per 3 guests for the Huascarán ascent - High Camps: Tent per 2 participants, stove, food
- Support in setting up the high camps
- Ropes, snowbars and ice screws for the ascent
- SAT-telephone, InReach for emergencies
- Medical emergency pharmacy (at base camp)
- Solar panel, UHF/VHF radio
- Travel insurance
- International flights (to Lima, Perú)
- Dinner and lunch for hotel accommodation in Lima and Huaraz (we generally go out together as group)
- Personal mountaineering equipment
- Snacks, alcoholic beverages, tips.