Overview
Elbrus traverse - North to South: This 12-day expedition across the roof of Europe leads beautifully from the northern green meadows, watercourses and hot springs to the highest mountain in Europe. We ascend Elbrus from the north side, thus avoiding larger groups of climbers on the normal route and descend on the south side in order to enjoy the magnificent view of the south-eastern Caucasus. The purpose of this trip is the conditionally demanding north-south traverse of the highest mountain in Europe - the 5642m high Elbrus in the Caucasus under the professional guidance and organisation of our SummitClimb expedition leader. For conditionally strong mountaineers, the traverse is a very interesting variant of reaching the highest peak of Europe away from the well-known normal route. Currently closed due to Russia's war on Ukraine.
Itinerary Elbrus Traverse - Seven Summits Europe
Itinerary Elbrus Traverse
Check of the equipment in preparation for the mountain tour, dinner. Overnight stay in a hotel (double room), half board.
Last shopping and drive (about 4 hours) with 4×4 via Pyatigorsk to Dyily-Su / Dzhylysu (2640m) to the north side base camp. Exploration and hiking day, walk to the nearby hot springs. Many Russian tourists make a pilgrimage to this region as they believe in the healing power of water. At the foot of the mountain there is a permanent camp with small simple huts and tents. Overnight in tent / hut. Full board.
Ascent to the north side camp at the edge of the glacier tongues of Elbrus to deposit the first gear. On request we can make a detour to the stone-shaped mushrooms. Tour: approx. 7h +/- 1100m. Overnight in tent / hut. Full board.
A relatively straight ascent leads us to our next camp. Tour: approx. 4h +1100m. Overnight in tent / hut. Full board.
We practice climbing with crampons, roping up on the glacier and crevasse recovery near the hut. Depending on the weather and conditions we will climb to over 4000m altitude, which will help further acclimatization. Tour/training: approx. 6h +/-300m. Overnight in tent / hut. Full board.
We ascend to Lenz Rocks to further acclimatize. The option to set up a high camp with tents at Lenz Rocks is not included in our plans: The disadvantages of a cold night and a more difficult start than from the hut are not worth it. Depending on your well-being, the middle Lenz Rocks (4850m), the upper Lenz Rocks (5100m) or even the east summit (5620m) can be reached. Then we descend to the hut. Tour: approx. 5h (ascent 4h, descent 1h) +/-850m. Overnight in tent / hut. Full board.
A complete rest day is very important to allow the body to recover and get used to the altitude. Overnight in tent / hut. Full board.
Early start (approx. 0 o'clock)! We have breakfast in the hut and leave it at about 1 am to experience the sunrise high on the glacier. A long traverse into the Elbrus saddle (5300m) follows. There we deposit our equipment and continue to the west summit - with 5642m the highest point on Elbrus. The summit of Europe.
Descent to the south side over the Pastuchov rocks to Prijut Odinnadtzati / Priju Maria (4200m), then further down to our private Go-Elbrus hut (3800m) with a well-maintained and comfortable accommodation. The last part of the descent can be arranged with snowmobiles or a snow groomer for an extra charge. Tour: Ascent approx. 10-12h, descent approx. 4h, +1200 m /-1850m. Overnight in hut. Full board.
Reserve day for summiting Elbrus. Overnight in hut. Full board.
We descend via the southern route (see the program of the normal route for details) into the Baksan Valley. Overnight in hotel. Full board.
Reserve day / if necessary further tours / sightseeing in the Caucasus. Drive to Mineralnye Vody. Overnight in hotel B&B.
Return flight home from Mineralnye Vody (MRV).
Prepare
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Participation requirements
Requirements: For the participation in the Elbrus traverse, you need experience with hiking on glaciers, for example previously carried out, easy alpine tours. Good physical condition, team spirit and the willingness to do without comfort on the mountain are required. All equipment must be carried by the participants themselves when crossing the glacier. A carefully packed rucksack with an economical choice of gear is extremely important - the weight is then approx. 12 kg.
Technical requirements: Russian difficulty level 2B, corresponds to UIAA scale PD+ / alpine snow and ice ascent in 30° of steepness - some passages steeper. Safe walking with crampons up to 40° of steepness must be mastered. Glacier ascent with rope, knowledge of crevasse rescue.
Physical requirements: For the traverse, physical condition for the approx. 8-10 hour ascent into the saddle is absolutely necessary (1700 m altitude difference, with luggage). The following summit ascent* (west summit, 5642m) requires another 150 metres of altitude difference, approx. 1 hour ascent.
*Note: Depending on the condition of the group and external conditions, it is also possible to cross from east summit (5621m) to west summit (5642m). Camping at the middle Lenz Rocks (4600m) can shorten the ascent by about 800 meters - this is "only" about 2 hours at normal speed.
Danger note: Besides the altitude, storm, cold and wind at Elbrus are serious dangers.
Testimonials
Costs & Services
Unfortunately, there are currently NO Elbrus tours taking place. However, we would be happy to receive your inquiry and add you to a waiting list for the next possible Elbrus trips. We will provide information on costs and services as soon as the tour can be conducted again.
Book now
Falls Du Dich für eine Elbrus-Tour vermerken lassen willst, dann kannst Du Dich gerne kontaktieren.
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