Volcanoes in Ecuador: Cotopaxi & Chimborazo

Arrival in the evening in Ecuador's capital Quito. You will be picked up at the airport by our driver. The international airport is 50km away from Quito. The group will meet at the airport and will be transferred to the hotel in Quito (45 minutes). Depending on the day of the week, there may be a lot of traffic and it may take longer to get to the hotel. Hotel Finlandia is very well located in the center.

Accommodation: Hotel Finlandia, double room, breakfast.

In Quito's old town, since 1979 UNESCO World Heritage Site, we visit the Plazas de la Independencia, Santo Domingo and San Francisco. These three squares are home to the most important monuments from the colonial period. From the short volcanic hill "El Panecillo" (the name means "the breadbun") we can admire the beautiful view over the city - and in clear weather - on the snow-capped Cotopaxi. In the afternoon we return to our hotel and have the evening at our disposal.

Accommodation: Hotel Finlandia, double room, breakfast.

We reach the local mountain of Quito comfortably with the cable car (mountain station on 4000m height). The hike of about 6 hours (4 in the ascent, 2 in the descent) offers a wonderful view of Quito and the surrounding volcanoes: Cayambe, Antisana, Cotopaxi. In the afternoon we drive south on the Avenida de los Volcanes, the "volcano road". On the way, in sunny weather, the radiant peaks of Cotopaxi, Illiniza Norte and Illinaza Sur appear on the horizon. Overnight at the hacienda-like Huerta Sacha Lodge.

• Accommodation: Huerta Sacha Lodge, overnight stay, full board.
• Trek: 5-6h; Ascent: 800 m; Descent: 800 m.

After we have collected our first impressions of the country and its people, we go for a day hike in the region of El Corazón. The 4788 m high volcano lies in the west cordillera in the northwest of Machachi valley and is part of a massif with three mountain peaks, rarely covered in snow. Early in the morning we leave our accommodation and hike to the pre-summit of El Corazón at an altitude of about 4500 m. Overnight stay at the Huerta Sacha Lodge.

• Accommodation: Huerta Sacha Lodge, overnight stay, full board.
• Trek: 6-7h; Ascent: 1230 m; Descent: 1230 m.

Early in the morning we set off to climb Illiniza Norte (5126 m). The ascent is technically not difficult, except for the last part shortly before the summit. During this first climb at a higher altutide we should "take it easy" in order to acclimatize well. After a short block climb (II), we reach the highest point of Illiniza Norte and deserve a break. The view from the summit over the Andes is fantastic! Cotopaxi, our next destination, grows into the sky directly opposite us. After the summit rest we descend quickly. After the climb we can relax in the beautiful Huerta Sacha Lodge. 
Accommodation: Huerta Sacha Lodge, overnight stay, full board.
Trekking: approx. 8-9h; Ascent: 1250 m; Descent: 1250 m.

We drive 1.5 hours along the volcano road to the foot of Cotopaxi. The day is free to relax, to write postcards or to use Wifi. The hacienda is beautifully situated, if you wish, we can organize a horse ride. Pablo, our landlord and hacienda owner, takes care of his guests with full commitment.

• Accommodation: Hazienda Mortiños, B&B, full board.
• Rest day. 

We enter the Cotopaxi National Park, which was established to protect the Páramo vegetation. We take time to visit one of the beautiful lagoons before continuing to the car park below the José Ribas hut at an altitude of about 4500 m. From there, the ascent to the José Ribas hut at 4800 m takes about 1 hour. We rest, put our equipment in order and prepare ourselves for tomorrow's summit ascent during a glacier training. We spend the short night in a warm sleeping bag in the José Ribas hut situated below the edge of the glacier.

• Accommodation: Mountain hut José Ribas, full board.
• Car transport: 1h; Walking time: 1h; Ascent: 350 m.

Cotopaxi was first climbed in 1872 by the German geologist Wilhelm Reiß and the Colombian Angel Escobar. The biggest eruption of this volcano took place in 1877, the lava flow extended to Latacunga 35 km away. Cotopaxi (5897 m) is one of the highest active volcanoes of the world and with its 5897 m of height - the second highest mountain of Ecuador. We plan a very early departure (midnight) to the summit. In clear weather we can see the volcanic peaks of Cayambe, Antisana, Illiniza and El Altar, as well as our next destination - Chimborazo located 100 km away. In normal conditions the ascent is technically not very difficult, but long and exhausting. The snow line and the glacial boundary lie at about 5000 m. We climb with ice axes and crampons right past the rocky crater structure that is already visibile from a distance. Depending on the conditions, we may have to bypass crevasses. After climbing up the last steeper slope we reach the crater edge (walking time from the hut to the summit approx. 6-8 hours, the descent takes 2-3 hours).

After returning to the hut we walk the short way to the parking lot and drive out of the national park onto the Avenida de los Volcanes. A scenic drive brings us to Baños. Depending on time we have luch on the way or after arrival in Baños.

• Accommodation: Hotel Spa Sangay (or similar), full board.
• Volcano climb: 10-11h; Ascent: 1080 m; Descent: 1380 m
• Car transport: approx. 3-4h.

The city of Baños de Agua Santa (Spanish for Baths of Holy Water) is named after the hot springs so you can guess what the activity of the day will be. Our bus takes us to the Pastaza Valley. We can admire the Rio Verde waterfall and the "devil's pan" (el Pailon del Diablo). The afternoon is at our free disposal in Baños. The cosy seaside resort is located at the foot of the active volcano Tungurahua. If you like, you can stroll through the streets, hike or bathe in the hot springs. Overnight stay at Hotel Spa Sangay.

• Accommodation: Hotel Spa Sangay (or similar), full board.
• Active rest day: car transport approx. 1h; short walks.

The village of Ambato is the starting point of our climb. To get there we drive on a winding road through a picturesque landscape along deep gorges. We pass through a beautiful plateau and reach the Carrel Hut (approx. 4800 m) at the end of the slope. Chimborazo is an extinct volcano with many individual craters and five peaks. Alexander von Humboldt, who unfortunately failed to climb it, was convinced that Chimborazo was the highest mountain in the world. And indeed it is, but only if you measure its height from the centre of the earth and not from the sea level. The first person who managed to conquer this peak was Edward Whymper in 1880, also the first person to have reached the summit of the Matterhorn. Overnight stay in the hut.

• Accomodation: Carrel Hut, full board.
• Car transport: 2h.

We set off for the summit around midnight. We follow the normal route, climbing first through "El Corredor" towards "El Castillo" (at approx. 5500 m) and we continue on the wide glaciated ridge to reach the Veintemilla peak (approx. 6300 m). From there a traverse leads us to the actual summit at Point Whymper (approx. 6330m). Due to the melting of the glacier, glare ice and falling ice are to be expected, especially when crossing "El Corredor" below the actual glacier. The ascent requires mountaineering experience and a sure foot in a difficult terrain. It takes about 7 to 10 hours from the hut to reach the highest point of Ecuador. From the summit we can admire a wonderful view; deep below us lies Riobamba. We need about 4-5 hours for the descent to the hut. In the afternoon we take the bus and drive to the Chimborazo Lodge, the hacienda "Las Estrellas".

• Accommodation: Chimborazo Lodge, half board.
• Trek: approx. 10-14h; Ascent: 1300 m; Descent: 1500 m.

This is our reserve day for the Chimborazo ascent but if we are successful on Day 11, we may return to Quito today or enjoy spontaneous activities in the southern highlands: a train ride from Alausi (2350 m) past the foot of the Devil's Nose at a pace of 500 meters in zigzag turns (possible on three weekdays, partly closed in case of damage) or a horseback ride to explore the surroundings.

• Accommodation: Guesthouse / Hotel, breakfast.
• Reserve day for Chimborazo climb / free day.

We drive to Quito, where we still have enough time to stroll through the streets and shop.

• Accommodation: Hotel Finlandia, double room, breakfast.
• Car transport: approx. 8h.

Flight home or further journey to the next destination in South America (Amazon, beach, or Galapagos Islands are possible).