Broad Peak Gipfeltag: Sonnenaufgang auf ca. 7500m

Broad Peak Expedition

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+49 (0)30 774 9034

Basic costs:
8.250,00 €
Full service:
11.980,00 €
Status:

Broad Peak - SummitClimb

Selected dates:
to


Broad Peak expedition:
+ Experienced Leaders
+ Great Teams, strong Sherpas
+ 12th highest mountain of the world
+ Karakoram adventure next to K2

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

Categories

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Broad Peak Expedition

Selected dates:
to

Basic costs:
8.250,00 €
Full service:
11.980,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München oder Wien


Broad Peak expedition - costs & services

Your full-service membership includes all the service-packages with a flight from Europe (without flight, individual arrangement possible of course). Services:
 
  • Organization of the entire expedition
  • Experienced SummitClimb expedition leader
  • Scheduled flights to Nepal and back from various European airports:
    - please indicate your wish
    - incl. 30kg free baggage allowance and 8kg hand baggage
  • Preparation and training weekend (optional)
     
Our basic-service expedition includes:
 
  • British, American, or European leader/coordinator
  • All internal/domestic flights (weather dependent), buses, jeeps, and porters
  • 40 KG personal baggage transport to base camp
  • Three meals each day while traveling to/from base camp
  • Permit fees and liaison officers
  • Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
  • Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.
  • Full base camp with dinning tent, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
  • Three meals each day while in base camp (limited to 20 days, unlimited for full-service-members)
  • Private tents in basecamp (single occupancy)
     
Our full-service expedition additionally includes:
 
  • British, European, or American leader:
    - leadership (not guiding) for the Broad Peak ascent
  • Double occupancy tents above base camp
  • Use of group gear and supplies
  • Expert climbing Sherpa / High Altitude Porter (HAP):
    - min. 1 sherpa per 4 clients
    - gear allowance, salary, and insurance 
    - support on the setup of high camps
  • Setup of fixed lines as required, group fixing gear
  • Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
 
What is not included?
 
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
  • Personal climbing/trekking equipment and clothing
  • Pakistan visa
  • Tips / Gratuities
 
International flights to/from Islamabad: Full-service-members have a budget of EUR 700 for the Economy-flight from Europe within their price. We are happy to reduct this from your full-service costs if you arrange your own international flights, or discuss your individual solution.
 
 

Broad Peak - expedition itinerary

I. Approach to Base Camp

Day 1 • Arrival: Individual departure: scheduled flight from Europe, probably with QATAR or TURKISH Airlines.
Day 2 • Islamabad: Arrival early in the morning, airport transfer, and accommodation in a simple, private hotel in Rawalpindi/Islamabad - For security reasons we avoid the big international chains. Expedition briefing. Hotel BnB.
Day 3 • Skardu / Chilas: Ideally flight to Skardu (requires approx. USD150 additional costs). Otherwise by bus via the Karakorum Highway to Chilas. From Besham, a small market town, where lunch is served, the most impressive part of the journey begins. We drive through the dizzying gorge of the Indus River. Journey approx. 10 hours. Flight approx. 45 min - overnight stay. Hotel FB.
Day 4 • Skardu: Reserve day: If the flight takes place, we continue with the program of day 5. The journey takes another eight to ten hours, passing Nanga Parbat and through the deep gorges of the Indus to Skardu. Overnight stay in the comfortable Concordia Motel with a wonderful view over the Indus valley, we will stop for a break. Camp FB, altitude: 2,280m (7,480 ft)
Day 5 • Skardu: Free day to organize. If you are interested, we can drive by jeep in half an hour to Satpara Lake with its crystal clear water, from where we will take a half-day acclimatization hike with a view of the first mountains of the Karakoram. The expedition leader stays in Skardu and takes care of the last formalities. Camp FB, altitude: 2,280m (7,480 ft)
Day 6 • Askole: By jeep, the Braldu Gorge is reached through the lovely Shigar Valley via Dasu. Depending on the conditions, the road can be driven to Askole, the last village, or vehicles may have to be changed about 8 hours drive. Camp FB, altitude: 3,048 m (10,000 ft)
Day 7 • Askole - Jhola: The expected 7-day march to Gasherbrum base camp begins. Today we follow the course of the river Braldu past the Biafo glacier, Korophon (lunch break) to the junction with the Dumordo river. We cross it to reach the camp Jhola, approx. 5 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude above sea level: 3,160 m. (10,367 ft)
Day 8 • Jhola - Paiju: Continuing, partly adventurously close, along the Braldu we reach after some up and down the camp at a green forested island called Paiju, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB.
Day 9 • Paiju: At Paiju, already with a view of the Great Trango Tower and the spikes of the cathedral, we spend a traditional rest day for the porters and for acclimatization. Camp FB, altitude: 3,450 m (11,320 ft)
Day 10 • Paiju - Urdukas: The next day, after a short distance, the 60 kilometers long Baltoro glacier is entered. A laborious up and down over moraines (but with a view of the Trango towers) leads to the southern edge of the glacier, past the Liligo camp to Urdukas, approx. 8 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude: 4,150 m (13,615 ft)
Day 11 • Urdukas - Goro II: We enter the glacier and walk past Masherbrum and Muztagh Tower to the campsite, from now on the ice, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)
Day 12 • Goro II - Base Camp: In view of the ever more powerful Gasherbrum IV we reach the famous Concordiaplatz with a view of K2, Chogolisa, and Broad Peak, and continue to base camp, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,800m (15,750 ft)
 
Important Notice: The mountains can of course only be seen in good weather. In case of strong rain or snowfall (roadblocks to Askole, during the trek possibly overnight stay in Goro I or Concordia), we can be delayed on our way to base camp.

II. Broad Peak - Preparing the Ascent

Day 13 • Broad Peak Base Camp (BC): rest day
Day 14 • Camp 1: Ascent and set-up our first high camp C1 at 5,600 m.a.s.l. (18,372 ft)
Day 15 • Camp 2:  Ascent to the second high camp C2 at 6150 m.a.s.l (21,180 ft) and descent BC
Day 16 • BC: rest day
Day 17 • Camp 1: Ascent C1 - 5,600 m (18,372 ft)
Day 18 • Camp 2: Ascent C2 - 6,150 m (21,180 ft) and overnight
Day 19 • Camp 3: Ascent C3 - 7,050 m.a.s.l. (23,130 ft) and overnight there, or descent back to C2.
Day 20 • BC: Descent to Base Camp and rest.
Day 21 • BC: rest
Day 22 • BC: rest

III. Broad Peak - Summit Push

Day 23 • BC - Camp 2: Ascent C2 - 6,150 m (21,180 ft) for overnight
Day 24 • BC - Camp 3: Ascent C3 - 7,050 m.a.s.l. (23,130 ft) for overnight
Day 25 • Summit: Ascent of Broad Peak, descent to C3 or lower.
Day 26 • BC: Descent to Base Camp.
 
Day 27 - Day 36 • Extra days to summit Broad Peak: We have 10 days as a reserve to wait for weather/conditions (and the expedition can be extended by another 7 days too if necessary).
 
Important notice: Most likely "day 25" will not be our summit day but later. Delays by weather and waiting for conditions that allow a safe ascent are part of an expedition and you should bring enough mental endurance too. Actually, there is no guarantee at all, that we can reach the summit.

IV. Broad Peak - Gondogoro La Trek

Day 38 • Base Camp: We prepare our departure.
Day 38 • Camp Ali
Day 39 • Gondogoro La 
Day 40 • Green Valley Camp
Day 41 • Hushe - Askole
Day 42 • Skardu - Islamabad
Day 43 • Islamabad
Day 44 • Debriefing, earliest departure at night
Day 45 • Flight, arrival back home

Broad Peak - you want to join?

Requirements: You should have previously climbed to around 7,000m (21,000 ft) and have alpine climbing experience.

Technical skills: Experience in climbing up to 50° ice/snow mixed terrain - alpine tours at level D according to French scale / approx. Scottish III. The use of fixed rope in ascent and descent, as well as independent assessment of your safety devices, is required.
 
Physical skills: Relatively difficult conditions of the trekking to and the surroundings of the base camp should be taken into account. You have to keep your strength until the end. Endurance for 1,000 meters / 3,200 feet of ascent at altitude, about 10-14 hours, are needed on the summit day, plus 4-6 hours of descent.
 
Danger note: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. The extreme altitude and the extreme cold inevitably bring dangers. Because of the remoteness and the great height, the rescue possibilities are extremely limited.

In case of lacking knowledge, we recommend to attend preparatory courses in time. Support by a personal Sherpa or a federal mountain guide can be booked in advance.

 

"Mountain is Mountain ! No problem. In an other moment. Julian was excellent very professional. Team also very strong, but snow conditions decide. (Oscar Cadiach, 13-facher 8000m-Besteiger, zur SummitClimb Broad Peak Expedition 2015)"

(Oscar Cadiach aus Spanien - 07. September 2015 )

Teilnehmer im Aufstieg zum 3. Lager am Broad Peak | © SummitClimb Pakistan Felix Berg
Aufstieg am Broad Peak - 7900m - Besteigung 2014 | © SummitClimb Felix Berg
Team on the Summit of Broad Peak, Pakistan | © SummitClimb Felix Berg
Broad Peak BC with K2 | © SummitClimb Felix Berg

Infos

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

Basic package
Broad Peak Basic from Islamabad (ISB): travel, trek and setup at Base Camp, climbing permit.
8.250,00 €
Full service
Broad Peak Full Service Membership: Join our team with leader, HAP, all logistics for the summit push.
11.980,00 €

book

Broad Peak Expedition

18. Jun - 01. Aug 2021


Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
https://www.summitclimb.de

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

HAP: High Altitude Porter

The high camp carrier is not a Sherpa per se. Your HAP ("high altitude porter") will help you to transport your personal equipment. He goes with you to the high camps and accompanies you to the summit.

In Pakistan, there are only a limited number of really capable climbers who work as HAPs. We select the best guys for the job with our agency. There are very few Pakistanis we can employ for the leadership work in Broad Peak climbing. Accordingly, a timely booking on your part is necessary - advantageous 6 months before the start of the season. If you book later, we can find HAPs who will carry your equipment to the last camp (especially if you book only part of the season). Alternatively, we can hire a Sherpa from Nepal or an international mountain guide with an altitude experience for an additional fee.

At Broad Peak, a HAP carries about 15 kg of your personal equipment from base camp to the last camp (7100m) and in the summit walk up to 5 kg of your equipment (drink, food, if necessary a bottle of oxygen).

The package includes the personal equipment of the HAP including his expedition participation costs. Material transport only: porters can also be booked together with other participants (1/4 share, approx. 3-4kg) - then, of course, the function of the "mountain guide" with personal support is not necessary.

Services:

- Selection of the best possible HAP
- HAP participation in the expedition (45 days)
- Equipment and insurance of the HAP
- Fee of the HAP

The recommended tip for HAP at Broad Peak: USD 500 to USD 1000

Extension by 7 days: More time for the summit.
 
Info: A spontaneous extension can be discussed on-site, but can be much more expensive than a planned longer stay. The individual departure is only possible with the permission of the accompanying officer (L.O.) of the Pakistani army. Early booking is therefore advisable (at least 3 months before the start of the expedition). In case of a timely ascent within the normal expedition period, the departure can be made early with the rest of the expedition, only the rebooking costs of the flight have to be paid.
 
Ascent: Our expedition leader will stay in the base camp for another week if at least 4 participants book this package. If there are less interested, a local guide will take over the supervision in the base camp and the ascent will be completely independent with the help of a high camp porter.
 
Our services:
 
Base camp for an additional 7 days (cook, full board)
All services of separate departure (trekking, return, flight)
Coordination with official bodies (permit, military)
 
Costs per person: € 950,-
Request / Book
+49 (0)30 774 9034 info@summitclimb.de