Pamir Expedition: Korzhenevskaya & Communism Peak

Note - Changes: Here follows an ideal itinerary for the expedition. Delays in arrival, especially helicopter transfers and due to weather and conditions on the mountain must be considered.

• Day 1 - Arrival in Dushanbe
• Day 2 - Drive to Pamir: drive from Dushanbe to Dirgital, very basic accommodation - overnight/day.
• Day 3 - Flight to Basecamp (BC): Flight by helicopter to Moskvina base camp (4200m). From this day on we will camp with meals in the common room (bed and breakfast).

Helicopter - Important note: There is only one monopoly provider for helicopter transfers, which in turn depends on support from the government of Tajikistan. There may be delays for days. Please be advised of the risk of delay and change in itinerary. The residual risk for expedition planning and delay lies with the participants.

• Day 4-14 - Acclimatization phase: Ascent along the Korzhenevskaya camp chain: Camp 1 (5300m) and Camp 2 (5800m), possibly ascent of Chetiriokh (6300m) in 2-3 days from base camp. Between the ascents there will be rest days at base camp. Ideally (weather, no delays provided) the ascent can start after that.
• Day 15 - Korzhenevskaya ascent: Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m).
• Day 16 - Korzhenevskaya ascent: Ascent to Camp 2 (5800m).
• Day 17 - Korzhenevskaya ascent: Ascent to Camp 3 (6300m)
• Day 18 - Korzhenevskaya - 7105m - Summit: Along the partly exposed ridge we climb to summit. Descent to camp 2 or camp 1.
• Day 18 - Moskvina BC: Early in the morning we leave to avoid possible ice and rock fall as much as possible during the descent (danger spot below Camp 1 at the glacier tongue).
• Day 19-20 - Rest and reserve days: At Moskvina base camp there is even a sauna. It is time to rest properly.
• 21-23. day - Preparation: We plan 2 more active days for camp building and 1 rest day. These will also serve as reserve days if necessary.
• Day 24 - Peak Communism: Hike - just under 2 hours - to ABC on the edge of the glacier.
• Day 25 - Peak Communism: Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m).
• Day 26 - Peak Communism: Ascent to the edge of the big plateau (6200m) and descent to Camp 2 (5900m)
• Day 27 - Peak Communism: Ascent to Camp 3 (6800m) below Dushanbe Peak.
• Day 28 - Peak Communism - 7495m - Summit: We climb over Dushanbe Peak (6900m) to the summit slope, 50° steep. From an embrasure a ridge leads the last meters to the summit. Descent to Camp 2.
• Day 29 - Moskvina BC: Counter ascent to the plateau edge and descent to ABC, from there to base camp.
• Day 30-31 - Reserve: Another 2 days for bad weather or other delays
• Day 32 - Bye bye - Pamir: Helicopter flight Dirgital and drive to Dushanbe, hotel (B&B)
• Day 33 - Dushanbe: Free day in the capital of Tajikistan, hotel (B&B).
• Day 34 - Return journey: Flight home

Requirements: The ascent is carried out in independent self-reliant rope teams under the guidance of the expedition leader (in case of less than 6 participants of the Russian and English-speaking mountain guide). To participate it is necessary to act independently in alpine terrain and camping in winter conditions.

• Korzhenevskaya: Safe walking on crampons up to 50° (also rope-free) and experience camping in winter conditions is necessary. You should have an understanding of glacier rescue and altitude sickness should be brought. A very good physical condition is necessary.
• Peak communism: The most exposed and steep parts will be secured with fixed ropes by the expedition leader and a Russian mountain guide, nevertheless absolutely safe climbing is necessary even on the frontal peaks in shorter passages steep up to more than 50°. Also, combined terrain up to the 3rd UIAA difficulty level should be safely mastered.
• Excellent endurance is necessary for the ascent and descent, especially if you want to climb both 7000m-peaks within this one expedition.

Danger notice: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. Altitude and cold bring extreme subjective dangers (due to the lack of oxygen increased: technical errors, misjudgments) and objective dangers (weather falls, cold, etc.). Due to the remoteness and altitude, rescue options are extremely limited.

Note - Dangerous Route(s): There are unavoidable objective hazards on both mountains. Avalanches and icefall (seracs) are a hazard on the route to Camp 1 at Peak Communism. An unstable glacier (serac) and rockfall can occur on Korzhenevskaya below / resp. above Camp 1. 

Comparison: Basically, there are objective dangers on all expeditions and we try to minimize them by choosing the route and ascent time. Climbing other 7000m mountains in the SummitClimb-program such as Baruntse (7168m), Pik Lenin (7134m) and Lakpa Ri (7045m - under Trekking) are associated with much less objective dangers.