Sonnenuntergang im Hochlager des Pik Kommunismus

Pamir Expedition: Korzhenevskaya & Communism Peak

20. July - 16. August 2025

+49 (0)30 774 9034

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expedition leader

Felix Berg CEO - Chief Expedition Officer

Basic costs:: 3.150,00 €

Full service:: 7.950,00 €

Status:

Selected dates:
20. Jul to 16. Aug 2025

More dates

20. Jul - 26. Aug 2025

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.

1 - easy

2 - quite difficult

3 - difficult

4 - very difficult

5 - extreme

Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.

Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.

2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).

3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.

4 - High Endurance - Expedition

To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.

5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete.

Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

Climb 7000m peaks

Pamir Expedition: Korzhenevskaya & Communism Peak

Pamir expedition: These mountains offer you either an "easy" 7000m expedition or a challenging 7000m double expedition. Two of the five snow leopards, as the 7000m mountains of the former Soviet Union are called, can be climbed in the Pamir of Tajikistan. This country with adventurous character, the logistically complex journey and the wild mountains belong to the challenges, but also make the charm of this expedition.

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Want to go on an adventure?

Pamir Expedition: Korzhenevskaya & Communism Peak

Selected dates:
20. Jul to 16. Aug 2025

Basic costs:: 3.150,00 €

Full service:: 7.950,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München oder Wien (und andere Orte EU)

Upgrades

More dates

20. Jul - 26. Aug 2025

Special conditions: We are happy to accommodate your/your requests. The basic price with waiver of high camp service only makes sense for very experienced mountaineers!

We offer special packages for:

Groups from 4 persons special discoiunt and arrangements
Groups from 15 participants with own helicopter appointment
IVBV mountain guide and other certified guides

Mountain work: The expedition leader and Russian mountain guides help (with full service) and carry a higher share of group gear. However, you have to be more involved than on many other expeditions (Nepal, Pakistan). There is no "Sherpa" mentality, only on request we can hire a personal guide for you.

Personal gear approx. 10-12 kg
Group share approx. 3 kg for full-service participation

Total approx. 13-15kg backpack

Service: If this seems too heavy for you, you can alternatively book a personal guide / porter service.

Note: Helicopter unrelaible

There is only one monopoly provider for the transfer, which in turn relies on support from the government of Tajikistan. There may be delays for days. We point out the risk of delay - this has to be accepted as part of the adventure by you/you as a participant.

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Costs and Services: The full-service package includes flight from Europe to Dushanbe (ptional without), helicopter flight to base camp, all base and base camp, and high camp services. Locally organized climbs to Korzhenevskaya, Peak Communism (or Peak Lenin or Khan Tengri) we can offer with our local partners and Russian mountain guide.

Pamir expedition - Costs and Services

There are our services detailed regarding the prices.

Base price (only these services):

Transfers from Dushanbe according to program incl. helicopter flight
Personal luggage limit 20kg (helicopter flight)
3 nights in a ***standard hotel in Dushanbe in double room/F.
Environmental fees and handling of climbing permit.
Base camp manager of Pamir Peaks (local agency)
Base camp with stationary buildings: lounge, toilets, shower and sauna.
Emergency service at base camp
Customs clearance if necessary (at extra costs)

Base Camp Plus (included in Fullservice)

Catering by kitchen crew (10 days): 3 meals/day at base camp
Cabin at base camp (heated, shares) or tent

Full-Service (additional includes):

Organization of the entire expedition
SummitClimb expedition leader (min. 6 persons) from DE/AT
Small groups (min. 2 participants) with local mountain guide, English / Russian speaking
Scheduled flights from Germany / Austria to Dushanbe and back:
 - with 30 kg free luggage and additional 10kg hand luggage
- TURKISH via Istanbul
- own arrival at approx. EUR 700 discount (we pick you at the airport)
High camp service, base camp plus:
- Guidance by experienced SUMMITCLIMB leader/guide on the mountain
- Russian mountain guides including their insurances, equipment, fees: 1 guider per 3-4 members
- All high camp equipment: tents, stoves and pots, gas, ropes and fixation material, special rations, and additional food, radios
- support for tent pitching (no high camp porters)
Transfer of the group equipment to the base camp
Communication to base camp and rescue team (radio fee included)
Satellite phone and email in BC (chargeable), solar power system
Professional weather report
Extensive emergency pharmacy + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen

Not included:

Visa costs (approx. 50 EUR)
Personal equipment and expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, tips, etc.)
lunch/ dinner in Dushanbe
travel insurance (health and accident, withdrawal, etc.).

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Itinerary (28 oder 38 days) This double expedition allows participants a very demanding 7000m challenge in alpine ascent tactics. Important will be the flexible timing on the mountain, also sometimes the necessary calm and patience to match the right conditions for the summit push. With 30 days (on the mountain) in the Pamir, the framework for a 7000m ascent is generous, but to succeed on both mountains you must have strong endurance, and some external conditions are needed (weather, helicopter, conditions, and health/fitness).

Pamir expedition - itinerary

Note - Changes: Here follows an ideal itinerary for the expedition. Delays in arrival, especially helicopter transfers and due to weather and conditions on the mountain must be considered.

Day 1 - Arrival in Dushanbe
Day 2 - Drive to Pamir: drive from Dushanbe to Dirgital, very basic accommodation - overnight/day.
Day 3 - Flight to Basecamp (BC): Flight by helicopter to Moskvina base camp (4200m). From this day on we will camp with meals in the common room (bed and breakfast).

Helicopter - Important note: There is only one monopoly provider for helicopter transfers, which in turn depends on support from the government of Tajikistan. There may be delays for days. Please be advised of the risk of delay and change in itinerary. The residual risk for expedition planning and delay lies with the participants.

Day 4-14 - Acclimatization phase: Ascent along the Korzhenevskaya camp chain: Camp 1 (5300m) and Camp 2 (5800m), possibly ascent of Chetiriokh (6300m) in 2-3 days from base camp. Between the ascents there will be rest days at base camp. Ideally (weather, no delays provided) the ascent can start after that.
Day 15 - Korzhenevskaya ascent: Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m).
Day 16 - Korzhenevskaya ascent: Ascent to Camp 2 (5800m).
Day 17 - Korzhenevskaya ascent: Ascent to Camp 3 (6300m)
Day 18 - Korzhenevskaya - 7105m - Summit: Along the partly exposed ridge we climb to summit. Descent to camp 2 or camp 1.
Day 18 - Moskvina BC: Early in the morning we leave to avoid possible ice and rock fall as much as possible during the descent (danger spot below Camp 1 at the glacier tongue).
Day 19-20 - Rest and reserve days: At Moskvina base camp there is even a sauna. It is time to rest properly.
21-23. day - Preparation: We plan 2 more active days for camp building and 1 rest day. These will also serve as reserve days if necessary.
Day 24 - Peak Communism: Hike - just under 2 hours - to ABC on the edge of the glacier.
Day 25 - Peak Communism: Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m).
Day 26 - Peak Communism: Ascent to the edge of the big plateau (6200m) and descent to Camp 2 (5900m)
Day 27 - Peak Communism: Ascent to Camp 3 (6800m) below Dushanbe Peak.
Day 28 - Peak Communism - 7495m - Summit: We climb over Dushanbe Peak (6900m) to the summit slope, 50° steep. From an embrasure a ridge leads the last meters to the summit. Descent to Camp 2.
Day 29 - Moskvina BC: Counter ascent to the plateau edge and descent to ABC, from there to base camp.
Day 30-33 - Reserve: Another 4 days for bad weather or other delays
Day 34 - Bye bye - Pamir: Helicopter flight Dirgital and drive to Dushanbe, hotel (B&B)
Day 35 - Dushanbe: Free day in the capital of Tajikistan, hotel (B&B).
Day 36 - Return journey: Flight home

On day 26 there is an early helicopter schudule for shorten expedition (please contact us).

Safety

Participation and Preparation

Requirements: The ascent is carried out in independent self-reliant rope teams under the guidance of the expedition leader (in case of less than 6 participants of the Russian and English-speaking mountain guide). To participate it is necessary to act independently in alpine terrain and camping in winter conditions.

Korzhenevskaya: Safe walking on crampons up to 50° (also rope-free) and experience camping in winter conditions is necessary. You should have an understanding of glacier rescue and altitude sickness should be brought. A very good physical condition is necessary.
Peak communism: The most exposed and steep parts will be secured with fixed ropes by the expedition leader and a Russian mountain guide, nevertheless absolutely safe climbing is necessary even on the frontal peaks in shorter passages steep up to more than 50°. Also, combined terrain up to the 3rd UIAA difficulty level should be safely mastered.
Excellent endurance is necessary for the ascent and descent, especially if you want to climb both 7000m-peaks within this one expedition.

Danger notice: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. Altitude and cold bring extreme subjective dangers (due to the lack of oxygen increased: technical errors, misjudgments) and objective dangers (weather falls, cold, etc.). Due to the remoteness and altitude, rescue options are extremely limited.

Note - Dangerous Route(s): There are unavoidable objective hazards on both mountains. Avalanches and icefall (seracs) are a hazard on the route to Camp 1 at Peak Communism. An unstable glacier (serac) and rockfall can occur on Korzhenevskaya below / resp. above Camp 1.

Comparison: Basically, there are objective dangers on all expeditions and we try to minimize them by choosing the route and ascent time. Climbing other 7000m mountains in the SummitClimb-program such as Baruntse (7168m), Pik Lenin (7134m) and Lakpa Ri (7045m - under Trekking) are associated with much less objective dangers.

Infos

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

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Pamir Expedition: Please send us your questions through the contact form on the left, or book our tour with the booking form on the right.

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Pamir Expedition: Korzhenevskaya & Communism Peak

20. Jul - 16. Aug 2025

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Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de