Makalu (Westpfeiler)

Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

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+49 (0)30 774 9034

Basic costs:
22.800,00 €
Status:

Nepal - 8485m

Selected dates:
to


An extraordinary expedition with:
+ 6000m, 7000m and 8000m ascent
+ Alpine ascent of the Makalu
+ Highly experienced expedition team

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.
 
1 - easy
2 - quite difficult
3 - difficult
4 - very difficult
5 - extreme
 
Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.
 

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.
 

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.
 

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.
 
Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.
 
2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).
 
3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.
 
4 - High Endurance - Expedition
To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.
 
5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete. 

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Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

Selected dates:
to

Basic costs:
22.800,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Milan, München oder Wien


Makalu Trilogy - Services

Following Expedition services are included:
 
  • Summit expedition leadership
  • Organization and coordination of the expedition
  • Scheduled flights to Kathmandu (KTM), Nepal:
    - Return flight in Economy Class
    - Various European airports: Zurich, Milan, Paris, Frankfurt, Munich, Berlin
    - 30 kg free baggage allowance and hand baggage
  • Permission for the ascents of Mera Peak, Baruntse and Makalu:
    - Official climbings permit for all three mountains
    - Laison with NMA and Ministry of Tourism
    - All fees incl. national park and environmental depot
  • 4 nights in Kathmandu in ***Hotel DZ/F
  • Transfers according to the program:
    - Airport transfers in Kathmandu
    - Drive Kathmandu to Bung, private vehicle
    - Drive Num to Tumlingtar, private vehicle
    - Return flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
  • Trekking to Mera Peak:
    - Accommodation in lodges or tents to Khare
    - Full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
    - Transfer of personal luggage to Khare, max. 20kg
  • Trek to Baruntse base camp:
    - Light double tent for two participants
    - Small common tent / kitchen tent
    - Catering by Nepali cook, full board
  • Makalu base camp:
    - Comfortable single tent per participant
    - Dining tent, kitchen tent and material tent, toilet tent(s)
    - Catering by experienced Nepali kitchen team
    - Full board at Makalu base camp
    - Satellite phone and SAT Internet in BC
    - Solar power system / Generator
    - Emergency oxygen, hyperbaric chamber at base camp
  • Emergency pharmacy for the expedition
  • Satellite telephone for emergencies
  • Ascents Mera, Baruntse and Makalu:
    - Alpine lightweight tents
    - Cookers, pots, gas, and food
    - Group ropes and rack for an alpine ascent
 
Not included:
  • Personal equipment
  •  Expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
  • Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
  • Visa for Nepal (valid 90 days, USD 125)
  • tips for staff

Expedition itinerary - Makalu Trilogy

Day 1 • Flight to Nepal: Individual departure, from Europe (worldwide on request)
 
Day 2 • Kathmandu, Nepal: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel. Material check
 
Day 3 • Kathmandu, Nepal:
Orientation day in Kathmandu and expedition briefing, packing of expedition equipment.
 
Day 4 • Drive to Salleri - 2,600 m (8,530 ft)
 
Day 5 • Drive to Bung - 1,800 m (5,905 ft)
 
Day 6 • Trek to Khiraule - 2,460m (8,070 ft)
 
Day 7 • Trek to Cholemkharka - 3,580 m (11,745 ft)
 
Day 8 • Acclimatization
 
Day 9 • Trek to Khola Kharka - 4,250 m (13,945 ft)
 
Day 10 • Trek to Tangnag - 4,350 m (14,270 ft)
 
Day 11 • Trek to Khare - 4,980 m (16,340 ft)
 
Day 12 to 14 • Mera Peak ascent - 6,500 m (21,325 ft)

The first mountain climb of our expedition awaits us. A technically easy ascent leads to the summit of Mera Peak, 6476 meters high.
 
Day 15 • Trek to Sethp Pokhari / Chamlang BC site at approx. 4,900 m (16,075 ft)
 
Day 16 • Trek to Baruntse Base Camp - 5,200 m (17,060 ft)
 
Day 17 • Puga: Ceremony of the Sherpas, a tribute to the mountain, and our planned ascent: an important part of any expedition in Nepal.
 
Day 18 • Westcol: We climb to 6,140 m (20,145 ft) to deposit equipment, back to base camp - 5,200 m (17,060 ft)
 
Day 19 • Rest day: Day off at BC
 
Day 20 • Westcol: We climb to the 1st High Camp at 6,140 m (20,145 ft) Baruntse ascent.
 
Day 21 • Plateau Camp: Ascent to the 2nd High Camp at 6,400 m (21,000 ft) Baruntse ascent.
 
Day 22 • Baruntse ascent - Summit Day - 7,168 m (23,517 ft)
 
Day 23 • Descent: Via Shepani Col to the moraine camp - 5,700 m (18,700 ft)
 
Day 24 • Trek to Makalu B.C - 4,870 m (15,980 ft)
 
Days 25 and 26 • Rest at Makalu B.C. 
Rest days at Makalu base camp. Of course, these days also serve as reserve days for the Baruntse ascent
 
Day 27 • Makalu ABC - 5,700 m (18,700 ft)
Ascent to ABC. This advanced base camp is the actual base for our planned ascent
 
Day 28 • Camp II - 6,700 m (21,980 ft)
Well acclimatized, we can skip the classic Camp I at 6,100 m (20,000 ft). If necessary, there is another campsite at 6,450 m (21,160 ft) after the steep step called Headwall. Material depot and overnight stay.
 
Day 29 • Camp III - 7,500 m (24,605 ft)
Ascent through steep cliffs to camp 3, material depot and descent to camp II.
 
Day 30 • Makalu ABC
Descent in Makalu ABC
 
Day 31-32 • Makalu ABC
Rest days before the summit storm
 
Day 33 • Camp II - 6,700 m (21,980 ft)
 
Day 34 • Camp III - 7,500 m (24,605 ft)
 
Day 35 • Makalu Summit - 8,485 m (27,838 ft)
We cross the large Makalu Plateau up to almost 7800 meters, where we enter the summit slope via the French couloir. Without great technical difficulties, we reach the pre-peak, also known as False Summit. A short exposed traverse leads to the main summit. Descent to Camp III.
 
Day 36 • Descent to ABC
 
Day 37 to 46 • Reserve days
We have 10 days in reserve for the Makalu ascent
 
Day 47 • ABC: Packing and clearing up the base camp, marching off
 
Day 48 • Trek to Mumbuk
 
Day 49 • Trek to Tashi Goan
 
Day 50 • Trek to Nun
 
Day 51 • Drive from Nun to Khadbari or Tumlingtar
 
Day 52 • Tumlingtar, flight to Kathmandu: Party.
 
Day 53 • Kathmandu: Reserve day, sorting of materials, and end of the expedition. In the evening or at night transfer to the airport.
 
Day 54 • Flight: Departure in Kathmandu, arrival at home.

Participation - Requirements

Requirements: You need to have altitude experience from several expeditions, within the last years also at over 7,000 m altitude, very strong physical condition and good technical skills in alpine terrain are necessary. Advantageous is already existing experience above 8000m.
 
Technical ability: Rope-free climbing of 50° steep snow and firn flanks and mixed terrain must be mastered absolutely safely. You should be able to climb mixed climbing to Scottish IV (French TD-routes). We do not plan to fix the route, only extremely exposed and delicate passages can be provided with fixed ropes on our part. Independent mountaineering, camping, and cooking in the most wintry conditions, a solid ice technique, crevasse recovery, and alpine climbing techniques should be well known. You should have knowledge about the recognition and prevention of frostbite symptoms, altitude sickness, and treatment methods.
 
Physical requirements: Comfort renunciation due to the difficult conditions of traveling and trekking should be considered. Assistance in camp construction requires physical robustness. An excellent physical condition is required. During the ascent from Camp 3 at 7,500 m (24,600 ft) more than 1,000 meters (3,200 feet) of climb at extreme altitude awaits us. Alternatively, 2 nights in extreme altitude (camp 4 at 7,600m to 7,800m) is accompanied by heavy physical strain too. Be prepared for a tough and long expedition.
 
Danger Warning: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. We organize or lead this tour, but we do not take on the role of guiding. The extraordinary altitude and cold weather bring with it extremely subjective (due to the lack of oxygen) and objective (sudden changes in weather, cold, etc.) dangers.
 
-> A guided activity does not take place. We go as a team. In the case of concerns, personal local or international guides-partners can be arranged.

Infos

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

request

Basic package
22.800,00 €

book

Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

11. Apr - 04. Jun 2021


Du kannst unsere Reisen direkt online buchen unter:
https://www.summitclimb.de

You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

Request / Book
+49 (0)30 774 9034 info@summitclimb.de