Makalu (Westpfeiler)

Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

06. April - 25. May 2025

+49 (0)30 774 9034

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expedition leader

Felix Berg CEO - Chief Expedition Officer

Basic costs:: 27.500,00 €

Status:

Makalu - 8,481 m (27,825 ft) - Nepal

Selected dates:
06. Apr to 25. May 2025

More dates

06. Apr - 25. May 2027

An extraordinary expedition with:
✪ 6000m, 7000m, and 8000m ascent
✪ Alpine ascent of the Makalu
✪ Highly experienced expedition team

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.

1 - easy

2 - quite difficult

3 - difficult

4 - very difficult

5 - extreme

Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.

Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.

2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).

3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.

4 - High Endurance - Expedition

To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.

5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete.

Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

14 x 8000m peaks

Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

Makalu Trilogy: We climb via Mera Peak (6500m) and Baruntse (7200m) to gain access to the big challenge of the Makalu (8500m) ascent. We plan this diversified combination with minimal support in semi-alpine style: No high camp porters to carry us or our gear and only a minimal setup of fixed ropes and high camps is planned. To a really great 8000m peak we plan this great expedition in great style: Experienced alpinists and high altitude climbers are welcome!

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Want to go on an adventure?

Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

Selected dates:
06. Apr to 25. May 2025

Basic costs:: 27.500,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Milan, München oder Wien (EU)

More dates

06. Apr - 25. May 2027

Request / Book

We organize the Makalu Trilogy at the same service level for all participants. In the base camps we use a good infrastructure, we organize the full and complex logistics but go in a sportive style on the mountain ascents themselves.

Makalu Trilogy - Services

Following Expedition services are included:

Summit expedition leadership
Organization and coordination of the expedition
Scheduled flights to Kathmandu (KTM), Nepal:
- Return flight in Economy Class
- Various European airports: Zurich, Milan, Paris, Frankfurt, Munich, Berlin
- 30 kg free baggage allowance and hand baggage
Permission for the ascents of Mera Peak, Baruntse and Makalu:
- Official climbings permit for all three mountains
- Laison with NMA and Ministry of Tourism
- All fees incl. national park and environmental depot
4 nights in Kathmandu in ***Hotel DZ/F
Transfers according to the program:
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Drive Kathmandu to Bung, private vehicle
- Drive Num to Tumlingtar, private vehicle
- Return flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
Trekking to Mera Peak:
- Accommodation in lodges or tents to Khare
- Full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- Transfer of personal luggage to Khare, max. 20kg
Trek to Baruntse base camp:
- Light double tent for two participants
- Small common tent / kitchen tent
- Catering by Nepali cook, full board
Makalu base camp:
- Comfortable single tent per participant
- Dining tent, kitchen tent and material tent, toilet tent(s)
- Catering by experienced Nepali kitchen team
- Full board at Makalu base camp
- Satellite phone and SAT Internet in BC
- Solar power system / Generator
- Emergency oxygen, hyperbaric chamber at base camp
Emergency pharmacy for the expedition
Satellite telephone for emergencies
Ascents Mera, Baruntse and Makalu:
- Alpine lightweight tents
- Cookers, pots, gas, and food
- Group ropes and rack for an alpine ascent

Not included:

Personal equipment
Expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.)
Travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation)
Visa for Nepal (valid 90 days, USD 125)
tips for staff

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A long way to Makalu: Already the trekking is a great and adventurous round trip through the Hinku Himal over the Mera La into the Honku Valley and further over West- and Sherpani-Col into the Barun Valley of the Makalu region. But, we plan to climb the three prominent mountains Mera Peak, Baruntse and Makalu in good sportive style along the way. Only in the base camps and during the trekking we are supported by our staff and, as far as possible on the normal routes on any 8000m peak, we will not use fixed ropes for the ascents and climb by fair means.

Expedition itinerary - Makalu Trilogy

Day 1 • Flight to Nepal: Individual departure, from Europe (worldwide on request)

Day 2 • Kathmandu, Nepal: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel. Material check

Day 3 • Kathmandu, Nepal:

Orientation day in Kathmandu and expedition briefing, packing of expedition equipment.

Day 4 • Drive to Salleri - 2,600 m (8,530 ft)

Day 5 • Drive to Bung - 1,800 m (5,905 ft)

Day 6 • Trek to Khiraule - 2,460m (8,070 ft)

Day 7 • Trek to Cholemkharka - 3,580 m (11,745 ft)

Day 8 • Acclimatization

Day 9 • Trek to Khola Kharka - 4,250 m (13,945 ft)

Day 10 • Trek to Tangnag - 4,350 m (14,270 ft)

Day 11 • Trek to Khare - 4,980 m (16,340 ft)

Day 12 to 14 • Mera Peak ascent - 6,500 m (21,325 ft)

The first mountain climb of our expedition awaits us. A technically easy ascent leads to the summit of Mera Peak, 6476 meters high.

Day 15 • Trek to Sethp Pokhari / Chamlang BC site at approx. 4,900 m (16,075 ft)

Day 16 • Trek to Baruntse Base Camp - 5,200 m (17,060 ft)

Day 17 • Puga: Ceremony of the Sherpas, a tribute to the mountain, and our planned ascent: an important part of any expedition in Nepal.

Day 18 • Westcol: We climb to 6,140 m (20,145 ft) to deposit equipment, back to base camp - 5,200 m (17,060 ft)

Day 19 • Rest day: Day off at BC

Day 20 • Westcol: We climb to the 1st High Camp at 6,140 m (20,145 ft) Baruntse ascent.

Day 21 • Plateau Camp: Ascent to the 2nd High Camp at 6,400 m (21,000 ft) Baruntse ascent.

Day 22 • Baruntse ascent - Summit Day - 7,168 m (23,517 ft)

Day 23 • Descent: Via Shepani Col to the moraine camp - 5,700 m (18,700 ft)

Day 24 • Trek to Makalu B.C - 4,870 m (15,980 ft)

Days 25 and 26 • Rest at Makalu B.C.

Rest days at Makalu base camp. Of course, these days also serve as reserve days for the Baruntse ascent

Day 27 • Makalu ABC - 5,700 m (18,700 ft)

Ascent to ABC. This advanced base camp is the actual base for our planned ascent

Day 28 • Camp II - 6,700 m (21,980 ft)

Well acclimatized, we can skip the classic Camp I at 6,100 m (20,000 ft). If necessary, there is another campsite at 6,450 m (21,160 ft) after the steep step called Headwall. Material depot and overnight stay.

Day 29 • Camp III - 7,500 m (24,605 ft)

Ascent through steep cliffs to camp 3, material depot and descent to camp II.

Day 30 • Makalu ABC

Descent in Makalu ABC

Day 31-32 • Makalu ABC

Rest days before the summit storm

Day 33 • Camp II - 6,700 m (21,980 ft)

Day 34 • Camp III - 7,500 m (24,605 ft)

Day 35 • Makalu Summit - 8,485 m (27,838 ft)

We cross the large Makalu Plateau up to almost 7800 meters, where we enter the summit slope via the French couloir. Without great technical difficulties, we reach the pre-peak, also known as False Summit. A short exposed traverse leads to the main summit. Descent to Camp III.

Day 36 • Descent to ABC

Day 37 to 46 • Reserve days

We have 10 days in reserve for the Makalu ascent

Day 47 • ABC: Packing and clearing up the base camp, marching off

Day 48 • Trek to Mumbuk

Day 49 • Trek to Tashi Goan

Day 50 • Trek to Nun

Day 51 • Drive from Nun to Khadbari or Tumlingtar

Day 52 • Tumlingtar, flight to Kathmandu: Party.

Day 53 • Kathmandu: Reserve day, sorting of materials, and end of the expedition. In the evening or at night transfer to the airport.

Day 54 • Flight: Departure in Kathmandu, arrival at home.

Safety

Participation - Requirements

Requirements: You need to have altitude experience from several expeditions, within the last years also at over 7,000 m altitude, very strong physical condition and good technical skills in alpine terrain are necessary. Advantageous is already existing experience above 8000m.

Technical ability: Rope-free climbing of 50° steep snow and firn flanks and mixed terrain must be mastered absolutely safely. You should be able to climb mixed climbing to Scottish IV (French TD-routes). We do not plan to fix the route, only extremely exposed and delicate passages can be provided with fixed ropes on our part. Independent mountaineering, camping, and cooking in the most wintry conditions, a solid ice technique, crevasse recovery, and alpine climbing techniques should be well known. You should have knowledge about the recognition and prevention of frostbite symptoms, altitude sickness, and treatment methods.

Physical requirements: Comfort renunciation due to the difficult conditions of traveling and trekking should be considered. Assistance in camp construction requires physical robustness. An excellent physical condition is required. During the ascent from Camp 3 at 7,500 m (24,600 ft) more than 1,000 meters (3,200 feet) of climb at extreme altitude awaits us. Alternatively, 2 nights in extreme altitude (camp 4 at 7,600m to 7,800m) is accompanied by heavy physical strain too. Be prepared for a tough and long expedition.

Danger Warning: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at his own risk. We organize or lead this tour, but we do not take on the role of guiding. The extraordinary altitude and cold weather bring with it extremely subjective (due to the lack of oxygen) and objective (sudden changes in weather, cold, etc.) dangers.

-> A guided activity does not take place. We go as a team. In the case of concerns, personal local or international guides-partners can be arranged.

Infos

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

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To join our team: Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 5 years and expedition experience) or send us your tour report in a separate email. We will be happy to inform you about our expedition. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements (see information), then register online and we will check your participation in our Makalu Trilogy.

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Makalu Trilogy: Three mountains with 8500m-finish

06. Apr - 25. May 2025

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de