Makalu (Westpfeiler)

Makalu Expedition - Summit Climb 8,163m Nepal

12. April - 04. June 2025

+49 (0)30 774 9034

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expedition leader

Int. Summit Team Summit Team International - Summit Climb Mountain Guides

Basic costs:: 10.500,00 €

Full service:: 21.990,00 €

Status:

Makalu - 8,485 m (27,837 ft) - Nepal

Selected dates:
12. Apr to 04. Jun 2025

More dates

12. Apr - 04. Jun 2026

Join our Makalu climb:
+ Challenging 8000m ascent
+ Strong international teams
+ Experienced international organizer
+ The best leadership for your success

Mountaineering skills

Mountaineering

Technical scale: Mountaineering skills required for our expeditions, alpine tours and demanding trekking.

1 - easy

2 - quite difficult

3 - difficult

4 - very difficult

5 - extreme

Mountaineering is the underlying ability to climb any mountain. On classic expeditions, many exposed areas are secured.

1 - easy / simple

"Easy" on expedition already includes mountaineering in alpine terrain or on glaciers up to grad ZS/AD "quite difficult" according to alpine scale. Exposed areas and crevasses are fixed if possible. Basic knowledge in handling ice axe / crampons and rope is required.

2 - quite difficult

Route with extensive passages in the grad ZS/AD: Safe handling with an ice ax, crampons and rope are required. Exposed places or crevasses are fixed if possible or walked in rope team.

3 - difficult

Persistent suspended passages must be managed. These will be insured if possible. Mountaineering on the alpine scale S/D "difficult" with exposed climbing passages (up to IV. UIAA degree). Good use of crampons and rope is required, as well as safe climbing in combined terrain.

4 - very demanding

Exposed and demanding route. The difficulties range up to the alpine scale SS/TD "very difficult" and are mostly insured. Dealing with fixed rope and climbing clamps, increased demands on climbing technique, physical conditions and experience are required, as are all the demands of "difficult" mountaineering.

5 - extreme

Very demanding mountaineering, even without the possibilities of protection. The terrain will rarely exceed the alpine difficulty SS/TD, but can reach the requirements of the alpine scale AS/ES "extremely difficult". Above-average ability and a lot of experience in alpine mountaineering are expected.

Danger Warning: For safety reasons, your personal skills and sufficient experience are required for each expedition and ascent (specific description under Information / Requirements).

Stamina - Endurance

Stamina - Endurance

A mountain athlete needs endurance above any other specific fitness skill. Cardiovascular fitness is of course always subject to the movement (as climbing rocks or steep ice, you will not be able to transfer your triathlete or running fitness to mountains without being solid in the required mountaineering skills).

1 - Active Tour
Easy treks to EBC or on top of Kilimanjaro. You should be an active person.

2 - Sportive Tour
More demanding treks, simple climbs, like the climb of Elbrus. You should be a sportive person regularly exercising (at least 2-3x per week).

3 - Demanding Trek / Expedition
Very demanding treks like to the top of Aconcagua, or expeditions at the physical lower level like Ama Dablam. You should be an endurance athlete wit mountaineering experience. You should train endurance at least 3x/week.

4 - High Endurance - Expedition

To climb Everest (with oxygen-support) or some of the "easier" 8000m peaks you need a strong endurance. You should train specifically at least 4-5x per week.

5 - Very high Endurance - Expedition
Some of our special self-supported 8000m+ peak climbs as on Makalu, or to climb Everest (without oxygen-support) fit into this category. Your endurance should be near the level of a professional mountain athlete.

Similar Climbs and Treks - Overview:

Makalu Expedition - Summit Climb 8,163m Nepal

Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world, holds a very special magic for many mountaineers. It is gigantic and beautiful to look at. Located between Everest, Baruntse and the flat Terrai, it is often ignored and hence on of the less crowded 8000m-peaks. The trekking to the base camp is beautiful and Makalu is a rather lonely mountain, remote, challenging, difficult to climb.

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Want to go on an adventure?

Makalu Expedition - Summit Climb 8,163m Nepal

Selected dates:
12. Apr to 04. Jun 2025

Basic costs:: 10.500,00 €

Full service:: 21.990,00 €

Airport of departure:

Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, München oder Wien

More dates

12. Apr - 04. Jun 2026

Request / Book

Makalu Expedition Services: You can join our basic climb (all necessary permits, basecamp setup, expeditions support) or you can join our full-service option including a flight from Europe (Economy, from most major airports), the trekking to basecamp and all high-camp-services for the ascent. Together we are stronger and starting from 6 full-service-participants our experienced SummitClimb guide will lead your expedition.

Makalu Expedition - Services

Makalu Expedition - Basic membership:

Organization of your participation
Climbing permits for the Makalu
- Permission of the Nepali Ministry of Tourism for the expedition
- National park fee for the Makalu-Barun National Park
- Laison Officer (liaison officer) incl. all costs
- Fees of the Ministry of Tourism
- Garbage Deposit
Base camp setup:
- Comfortable single tent per participant
- Dining tent, kitchen tent and material tent
- Toilet tent(s) depending on group size, shower tent
- Catering by experienced Nepali kitchen team
- Full board (up to 30 days) at Makalu base camp
Satellite telephone and SAT Internet in BC (use for a fee)
Power system in base camp (limited use)
Extensive emergency pharmacy for the base camp
Pulse oximeter, medical oxygen, a hyperbaric chamber at base camp
Satellite telephone for emergencies
Emergency assistance

Full-Service-Membership for Makalu

Includes all services of basic membership and:

Summit expedition leadership (min. 6 participants)
Scheduled flights (ECONOMY) to Nepal and back:
- Departure form most major airports in Europe
- 30 kg free baggage allowance plus hand baggage
4 nights in Kathmandu in ***Hotel DZ/F
Transfers and overnight stay according to program
Accommodation and full board during the trek to the base camp
Transfer of personal luggage (to BC: 40kg, back: 35kg)
All high camp equipment (tents, stoves, pots, etc.):
- One tent per camp for 2 participants
- Setup of 3-4 high camps, supported by sherpas
- MSR Reactor cookers, including gas
- Fixed ropes, group ropes and fixing material
- Radio equipment (5-10 Watt, UHF/VHF)
High altitude porters/Sherpas including their insurance and equipment

Not included: Personal equipment and expenses of a personal nature (such as telephone, alcoholic beverages, gifts, etc.), travel insurance (health and accident, cancellation), Visa Nepal (up to USD 100), tips.

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Request / Book

Makalu is located in a remote region of Nepal. Although not far from Mount Everest, steep passes and repellent ridges and mountains separate the Makalu region from the Khumbu (Everest) area. Thus, a wild and original approach to the base camp awaits us: The Barun Valley winds into the Himalayas between Baruntse and Makalu. On the southwestern side of Makalu, we set up our base camps (BC, ABC) for our ascent. The ascent is planned via the classic route with three to four high camps (C1 at 6100m, C2 at 6700m, C3 at 7400m and C4 at 7600m).

Expedition Itinerary - Makalu Classic Climb

I. Travel & Trek to the Base of Makalu

Day 1 • Departure: Flight from Europe (or any other destination).

Day 2 • Arrival: Latest Arrival in Kathmandu. Transfer to the ***hotel B/B.

Day 3 • Kathmandu: organization of material and permit, gear-check and packing ***hotel B/B.

Day 4 • Transfer to Num: Flight to Tumlingtar and drive to Num at 1,500 m (4,920 ft), Guesthouse/FB

Day 5 • Trek to Base Camp: Trek to Sheduwa at 1,500 m (4,920 ft) - Camping/FB

Day 6 • Trek to Base Camp: Trek to Tashigaon (Tashi Guan) at 2,100 m (6,890 ft) - Camping/FB

Day 7 • Trek to Base Camp: Trek to Kauma (Khongma) at 3,760 m (12,335 ft) - Camping/FB

Day 8 • Trek to Base Camp: Trek to Dobato or Mumbik at 3,700 m (12,139 ft) - Camping/FB

Day 9 • Trek to Base Camp: Trek to Jark Kharka or Nehe Kharka at 4,400 m (14,453 ft)- Camping/FB

Day 10 • Hillary Base Camp: Trek to Hillary Base Camp, the historic base camp for the Makalu ascent, at 4,870 m (15,980 ft) - Camping/FB

Day 11-12 • Hillary Base Camp - Acclimatization

The wild and beautiful trekking through the Barun Valley brought us deep into the Himalayas. Now it is time to recover and to acclimatize better around 5000 meters altitude.

Day 13 • Ascent to ABC at 5,700 m (18,700 ft)

The advanced base camp (ABC) is the actual base for our planned ascent via the normal route of Makalu.

II. Makalu - the ascent

Day 14 to Day 45 • Climb: A total of 32 days are at our disposal.
- At least 10 more days are needed for acclimatization along the route: At least 2 nights should be spent in Camp II at 6,700 m (21,980 ft) and once we need to reach close to Camp III at 7,500 m (24,600 ft).

- Then, after 2-3 days rest, the actual ascent ideally takes 5 days (ABC to Camp II, Camp III, Camp IV, summit and again Camp III, descent to ABC).

Extra time: Weather, health, and storms can take away days faster than now appears. In the best case, we summit within 30 days. Then the return flight can be changed forward, or we organize some relaxing visit of the rest of Nepal for a small surcharge. If even with this generous planning there is not enough time, then from ABC you can also fly directly by helicopter (rather larger surcharge) to Kathmandu.

III. Finishing the expedition

Day 46 • ABC: Pack up and tidy up (all rubbish comes with us).

Day 47 • Trek: Assignment of porters, trekking back to Yak Kharka.

Day 48 • Trek: Mumbuk.

Day 49 • Trek: Tashi Gaon.

Day 50 • Trek: Num.

Day 51 • Towards Tumlingtar: Drive from Nun to Khadbari or Tumlingtar

Day 52 • Kathmandu: Flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel, graduation ceremony.

Day 53 • Kathmandu: Reserve day, in the evening or at night transfer to Kathmandu airport, return flight.

Day 54 • Home: Arrival back at your home destination.

Safety

Makalu Expedition - Participation

Requirements: Altitude experience from several expeditions and an above-average physical condition are necessary.

Fullservice-members: You should have 7000m+ high-altitude experience and be an independent mountaineer (alpine tours at least AD according to UIAA scale), have experienced camping ad cooking in the wintry conditions. Ice techniques, glacier travel with crampons, and alpine climbing techniques er needed. You should have knowledge of crevasse rescue techniques and of frostbite symptoms, high altitude sicknesses, and their basic treatment.

Less experienced, you can only join with a 1:1 guide and personal training to climb Lhotse should be considered.

Basic-members: To climb Makalu without supplementary oxygen and Sherpa support, you should have successfully climbed at least one 8000m+ peak in a similar style.

Technical requirements: The greatest difficulties on the three steep steps are defused by means of fixed ropes. Rope-free access to 45° steep snow and firn flanks and rock climbing up to UIAA3 must nevertheless be mastered absolutely safely. In particular, securing on the fixed rope with ascenders and abseiling techniques must be mastered absolutely safely (with thick gloves!). The final couloir to the summit is the crux of the climb.

Physical Fitness: Stages of several days must be completed and you must be able to assess your strength and reserves well. During the night at the last camp (approx. 7,500m (24,600 ft)) and during the summit ascent temperatures around -40°C plus wind-chill-factor can be expected. For the summit day, an ascent of about 8-12 hours followed by a descent of 4-6 hours.

Lack of comfort: We climb constantly at high altitude, still health and fitness must be maintained. We will help you with this. A good personal organization and preparation are necessary to stay healthy and fit during the expedition.

Danger - Warning: Each participant takes part in this expedition independently and at their own risk. The extreme altitude and cold bring with it extremely subjective (due to the lack of oxygen) and objective (weather changes, cold, etc.) dangers! Rescue possibilities are extremely limited.

Infos

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de

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Join our Makalu expedition: Please outline your experience in the note field (biggest tours of the last 5 years and altitude experience) or send your tour report in a separate email. You have read the conditions for participation and meet the requirements (see information), then book online now! You are also welcome to send an inquiry and get further advice before joining our Makalu expedition.

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Makalu Expedition - Summit Climb 8,163m Nepal

12. Apr - 04. Jun 2025

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You can call us at:
+49 (0)30 774 9034

Or send us an e-mail:
info@summitclimb.de